Licensed to kill

6 hours ago, Vladislav said:

 Usually 6 bolt jack shaft flanges were used with heavier 6 spoke hubs and had floating shaft and that domed flange (cap) you see at the outside. 8 bolt shafts were made together with the flange. Many Macks of the era (80's) had the same size although other truck brands (non-Mack axles) had them different and the splines either.

My B has 6 spoke with 6 bolt axles (just like you describe) but I'm not sure I follow what you mean about "floating shaft". Is the shaft (axle) not a single forging with the flange? Are you saying the the axle SHAFT and the flange are two separate pieces on the 6 bolt?. 

Awesome. Should be just what I need. Thanks

I had complete;y forgotten that I have daytons with the 8bolt axles on my parts truck (R model bucket truck). I suppose I could wait until the "new" diff gets here and measure the bolt pattern to see if they are compatible. My parts truck hubs are 5 spoke, the B-61 has 6 spoke but that should still look OK. 

Yes, you read that right. I'm doing things backwards. The diff I'm getting has hub pilot budds of course but I want to stay with daytons. From what I understand the outside bearings are the same but the inner bearing is smaller on the daytons. I can deal with that but, as i was walking past my B-61 yesterday I noticed that it has 5 or 6 bolt axles. Well THAT certainly isnt going to work as the chance that the spline for the side gears is the same in both diffs is pretty much nill (plus the lengths may be different also). So, that leads me to finding some newer dayton hubs that take 8 bolt axles. My question is, to those that have done the typical swap from dayton to budd, are all 8 bolt axles the same bolt pattern? and, is there a visual difference between the hubs that came on the B and the newer 5 spoke daltons that take the 8 bolt axles? (or anything else i need to know). 

I was referring to the "scoop" at the top.

7 hours ago, Hayseed said:

You Need an Australian Built Mack Titan.............

 

https://www.macktrucks.com.au/trucks/titan/

 

What do you call those snorkels used in AUS on the air cleaners and where would a guy get some??. 

Looks like i scored a diff for my B-61 with 2.93 gears. Now I will be needing a source for a speedo gear for my TRXL-107 trans for that rear gear. Is there such thing or is there another option to dial in the speedo. 

My first thought was that it looked like a Ford LTL9000 hood. 

1 hour south of Peace River (1/2 hour north of Valleyview). 

What part of Alberta?

11 hours ago, mowerman said:

You know I know almost nothing about b models but I think the frame is narrow front and back be a lot easier to make up cab mounts then trying to transfer components that’s what I would do... bob

The thought of transferring the cab to the R frame occurred to me for a nano-second but for me, to accomplish what i want that would be WAY more work. The boom trucks frame is WAY to long and would need to be shortened. The biggest possible challenge that I see is adapting the power steering box from the R into the B since the steering is completely different between the two. The steering box on the R is down by the axle while the steering box on the B is about half way between the axle and the firewall. This will require main g a  mount of some sort either where the B box is to accommodate the R box or down by the axle and changing out the drag link/pitman arm ETC to accommodate. As far as mounting the engine /trans in the B frame, I don't expect that to be a big deal. I put a 1984 mercedes diesel/4spd into a 1931 Ford model A with a little bit of creative engineering so I doubt that putting an '84 Mack into a '58 Mack will be too bad. Besides, from what i understand, it's been done 1000 times before so how hard a can it be?. 

2 hours ago, mowerman said:

well yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa i would sell the B and clean up that R model....bob

LOL, 

Picked up a donor truck for one of my B-61's. Problem is, as usual, I'm on the fence as to whether or not to part it out. I bought it mostly for the tires, mirrors, cab lights, engine/trans, and power steering box (and maybe the air ride seat) but it could be a pretty handy rig the way it is with the boom/basket. Maybe I can find someone that wants the boom/turret/down rigger assembly to put on another truck, otherwise i have no idea what to do with it. I'm not good at throwing stuff away. It runs sweet (237) and has the 6spd maxi torque. 

2 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I bought 6 new Toyo 22.5s for my truck 20 yrs ago.  I replaced the steers a few years ago just because they were about 16 yrs old and I was concerned.  They weren't dry rotted, but just "old".  Im still running the rears even though they are 20 yrs old(also not dry rotted).  It cost $1800 20 yrs ago for 6 tires/rims.  The fronts cost me almost $900 to replace.  Sad fact you will never wear them out when only using the truck as a toy.

That is true. I have a yard full of toys that I will never be able to wear the tires out onTo clarify, when i said the there are 4 brand new tires, what I really meant was that they are 100% tread. They are likely 20 years old but show zero signs of rot or checking or anything. I keep all my "toys" under a roof so they are not subjected to the sun except when i am running them so that helps a LOT

I'm looking at an RD685S as a parts truck for my B-61 projects. A pretty big draw for me is that it has 4 brand new 10.00 20 drive tires and the other 4 are around 80%. I forgot to look if they are radial or biasply  but will check that out. I WAS going to go to 11R22.5's simply because 10.00 20's are so hard to find but I like the looks of the 20" rims much better than  the 22.5 rims. The 22.5's just don't look right, or, at least don't have the look I WANT. So, my question is, if these tires ARE bias like i suspect should that matter on the drives for a truck that will only be used to pull my holiday trailer?. If so why? and since I do NOT want bias steers, I would still go with 22.5's on the steering axle and wondering if that might look goofy or if it would even be noticeable. I know you are not supposed to run bias and radial mix but I guess another question would be what would be the harm running bias drives with radial steers. With any luck those drives will be radials but I'm  t betting on it. BTW, I'm talking Dayton rims here. 

1 hour ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

I am real anxious to see what you can do with that B.  If it comes out as nice as some of the other stuff in your shop, it should be pretty awesome.

Thanks. I'm getting pretty pumped about getting on it. I have most if it all figured out as to what i want to do, just working on a few details.

1 hour ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Point is, there are a lot of options out there.  And, don't forget, you can go the Eaton-Fuller route if you want to .  But, that adds a lot of complexity in finding all the right parts.  The build sheet on mine had several pages of goodies related to the RoadRanger box they built it with.

I still like the 13-speed Triplex and 18-speed Quadruplex boxes for top speed.  Just as long as you don't twist them in half with that Maxidyne engine!  lots of folks running those boxes in hobby trucks behind a 237 Maxi.  But, if actually working it, you have to be careful, because those boxes are not built for the torque of a Maxi.

The one I used to drive had 4.17:1 gears and the 18-speed.  Direct 4th was good for just about 60-62.  Hi-Split 4th would easily go to 65-67.  I could never find the limit on Hi-Split 5th (didn't have enough HP on that ENDT-673C 250-horse to get there!).

I have the triplex in the '59, a duplex in the '55 and I don't recall what is in the '58. I will likely stick with the maxi torque since i have it and it seems like a good reliable trans. Since i don't plan to haul anything heavy think I will try to find a rear gear that will put me between 1200 and 1400 RPM at 60MPH. Better on fuel and quieter in the cab. I have big plans and have decided (subject to change without notice) that, even though I DO NOT want to have a yard/shop full of half finished projects, I will put my Model A delivery aside next winter and do one of the Macks. I think I can finish one in one winter then go back to the model A. 

2 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

I don't exactly know what boxes y'all are talking about.  Might have been later versions.  But, there was a 5-speed with a single stick (TRL-107 series).  Then, there was a 6-speed "extended range" with 2 sticks (TRXL-107 series).  The "lo" on the compound was supposed to be used only in 1st gear.  That's your extra low gear.

Here is graphic showing some detail on the ones I am talking about.  The TRXL-1070 (or maybe it was a TRDXL-1070) would have been the same as the TRXL-107, but with "direct in 4th", and an overdrive 5th.  The "0" on the end of the number is the "overdrive" designation.

Model numbers were on the left side of the box.  There are several discussions on here that have pictures showing the location.

Somebody on here had the one I am talking about (TRDXL-1070).  Check out this link.

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/56848-mack-trdxl-1070-questions/

 

 

That is exactly what i was looking for. I can see that there is no worries about reverse regardless of what rear I choose. I checked mine out and it is a trx107

I look at the one i have and could not find any  number resembling TRXL-1070. All I know about it is that it came behind a 283 in a 1980 and is twin stick. Having said that, I thought they ALL were twin stick with the extra low gear in the auxiliary box and that some called them 5 spd for the main box and others called them 6spd including the aux box but were talking about the same trans. I didn't know that some came with OD. Is there a number on it that would tell me for sure what I have?. 

2.43 would be pretty good but i would be concerned about reverse being way too fast. Just a guess as I have no clue what the reverse gear ratio actually is. Something in the 2.80 range (don't know what actual ratios are available) should put me at about 1400RPM @ 60mph which would be pretty good IMO, again, reverse ratio might be an issue. 

I have been considering adding a splitter box

I am assuming that the 5spd has a direct high gear. If so, I would need a pretty tall rear to achieve the cruising RPM I was thinking of and that may compromise 1st gear and reverse (way too fast). So, based on my engine/trans (1980 283/5spd) and my intended purpose (pulling a holiday trailer) what would be a suitable rear gear with 11R 22.5 tires the would keep cruising RPM down to a dull roar?

15 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I would suggest sliding an air ride under the back with a faster gear.  Give you the best of both worlds.  That spring ride will beat that travel trailer to pieces!

Yup, that's the plan. Since it appears that I will be changing out the entire diff, I will just use one that already has air ride. Otherwise i was going to add it to the old diff.