Licensed to kill

I wish one of mine was in that good of shape, even HALF that good would be nice. Hope it goes to a good home. 

With that wheel base I don't think you can really go anything but small (36" max). A small flat top would look nice if you can find an old one with round corners with a radius as close to that of the rear cab corners as you can find. One with less round corners would fight the lines of the truck, both the physical lines and the time line and would loom like an out of date add on IMO. The bunk should be a bit wider than the cab so, if it were me, I would just mount the stacks on the cab in front of the bunk, just a bit ahead of where they are now. Having them frenched into the bunk would be cool but look out of place, again, IMO. Having said that, I am considering frenching the exhaust into the 50 gallon fuel tanks on mine (because I only have 1 good 40 gallon tank and 2 good 50 gallon tanks) but I think that would be less obvious than drenched into the bunk. Please feel free to disregard everything I have said if it conflicts with your personal taste. This is just my way of thinking and you should build your truck to suit your taste, not mine. Just offering suggestions. 

ABS

1 hour ago, Mark T said:

This might sound dumb, but will that steering box work mounted behind the axle ?   Almost seems like it'd be going the wrong direction. 

I doesn't matter which side of the axle the box is on. If it is behind the axle (as in this case) with the pitman Arm pointing down, clockwise rotation of the shaft coming out of the box with push the steering arm thus making the truck turn left. If the box was in front, with the pitman arm pointing down, clockwise rotation of the shaft will make the pitman arm PULL the steering arm, again, turning the truck left. Clockwise will turn left, counterclockwise right regardless of which side of the axle the box is on (as long as the pitman arm is pointing in the same direction, in this case, pretty much every case, down). 

14 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Likely "wiggle room" for factory assembly and not worrying if it will fit.[/quote]

That was the only reason I could come up with as well. Just sees odd.

[quote]Is there enough room behind the dash for the plumbing?[/quote]

There is plenty of room if I get "fancy" with the plumbing to clear the steering support but instead, I am going to make a custom support so the plumbing can be rather simple like the stock plumbing on the pass side since the support on both trucks were broken anyways. 

[quote]You realize the drivers door will no longer open as far?  I'm a skinny ass but it is still a bitch to get in the passenger side of the truck.  I put a felt bumper on the air cleaner bracket so as not to accidentally dent my fresh NOS door shells if you happen to throw the door open too hard. [/quote]

Yes, I am considering a couple ideas in that regard

Thanks for the pics. That last pic looks like a detailed miniature train set. Any idea what kind of torque that would put out at full PSI?

As the title says, I'm adding an air cleaner to the driver side of my B61. I have the bracket made as well as the backing plate but am puzzled about that plate. All of the mounting holes through the bracket and pipe surround are 3/8" (on the factory stock pass side) but the bolts that hold those things on are 5/16". This means that the head of this bolts are a bit smallish for the holes that they cover. I have yet to weld the nuts on the backing plate and am pondering whether to stay with the 5/16 through 3/8 holes or just go 3/8 bolts for a better fit. If I go 3/8 that will mean that I have to cut all the nuts off the pass side backing  plate and replace them with 3/8 also. What have others done when adding the driver side can??. Also, anything else I should be considering that may not be obvious??. 

I LOVE steam locomotives. Been wanting to find one as "yard art" but haven't looked TO hard since the transport alone would be cost prohibitive if I found one. The old fella that I bought my '31 Model A delivery from used to run them back in the day and he was kind enough to tell me a lot about it. Thanks for sharing. Any more pictures of it??

6 hours ago, davehummell said:

Ford carried the hand throttle on the column on into the model a. and a spark adjuster on the left same as a t. The T was a fun car to drive but for ease of driving my 31 coupe is way better. 

I think the hand throttle, whether it be on the column or the dash was because of the starter button on the floor. Needed a way to give it throttle while hitting the starter. I've never driven a "T" before but drive my "A's" as often as I can (which isn't often enough). My '31 delivery had haywire going from the choke through the grill so it could be choked when started with the hand crank. The hand crank is probably another reason for the hand throttle 

2 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

For what it's worth, I love the tall pipe on top of the canister.  Lots of our R600s had that (like the one in my profile pic).  Think it was pretty common on the Thermodyne engines (like my R611).  They were originally oil-bath cleaners.  Mine still was.  Most of the ones we had back then had been converted to a replaceable paper element.  It was a Mack kit they used to sell.  When I had mine, I tried with no luck to find that old kit.  Would have loved to have replaced mine.

When we got our first Maxidyne truck, it had the short pipe on top.  Little squatty thing.  Not sure if that was a Maxi/Thermo difference, or if it just happened to be the right year model.  Or, maybe it was a paper filter setup already.  Do not remember.  But, I do remember the one I spent most of my time in having the "oil bath" canister, but with the paper filter inside it.  Was kind of a nice surprise the first time I pulled the bottom off of it and DIDN'T get oil all over me!

I have also seen many a Mack with a plain black aftermarket canister on them.  I think it's a Donaldson item.  Looked something like this.  Maybe you can adapt something like that.

I have an exact can as the top pic with the tall riser and one with the short riser bet they are a little different from one another. One has a slight rim around the top and the other doesn't. I will need to find a match to either one.

I am looking for chrome risers. How you,d I get in touch with Matt Phal?

In that case, the cutoff year would be 1959 since I have 2 '59's, one with each setup.

7 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

If a straight drive transmission is an "anti-theft device" for new drivers, then a Quad would have to be like Kryptonite!

Actually, a Quad should qualify for a lower insurance premium, since nobody could steal the blasted thing!

 

For added security, I am going to put a tri-plex shift pattern tag in my B that will be sporting a twin stick 6 Spd. 

I didn't want to hijack Teched's thread (parts is parts) but I stole a couple pics from there to make my point (hope Teched doesn't mind). Why do some have a strapped can with a vent door behind the bracket like this?( that also has an "S" pipe so the nipple on the can is straight) 

And others have a strapless can with no door but rather, a rubber ducting going to the heater core and also into the engine compartment and an angled pipe going to an angled nipple on the can like this?

Thanks to all that have responded so far. hoping to get some pics so I can see what needs to be done. I don't follow written instruction well. In the mean time I am working on the driver side air cleaner. I can't believe how many inconsistencies there are between the 3 trucks that I have, even the 2 from the same year (1959). Nobody said this would be easy and if it as, everybody would do it I suppose. 😊

been working on the clutch linkage for almost 2 weeks now and still no success (but I AM getting closer). I'm putting a TRXL 107 (6 Spd) in my B61. The problem is that he B61 came with a push clutch and the 107 has a pull clutch. I want to stay with the pull clutch so I have a clutch brake but this means I have to reverse the rotation of the shaft so the pedal rotates it's shaft counter clockwise and I need to translate that in to clockwise for the clutch fork. I have tried a few different ideas and my last one almost worked but my geometry was..............not so good and it would;d take Swartzenegger in his prime to disengage the clutch. I can shorten the lever off the pedal about an inch but I don't know how much that will gain me. I/m sure I can reduce the force required at the pedal quite a bit by manipulating the length of each lever but, as near as I can figure, each time I do that, I lose some stroke at the clutch fork and may not have enough pedal travel to compensate. SO, before continuing on my current path, I was thinking that perhaps a hydraulic clutch would be easier and solve all my issues but I have never seen one in a class 8 truck before so I don't know if such a thing is even available and even if it IS, I want to maintain the stock B61 pedal rather than going to one that hangs from under the dash. Any insight regarding getting my stock B61 pedal to actuate the pull clutch would be appreciated. 

22 hours ago, Freightrain said:

But do the lights work??

No, I have the same thing of a Model A ford on the other side of the wall but the don't work either. I have 3 or 4 backlit tire signs on the other walls and people often say I should get them lit up again. It WOULD be nice (as would the headlights on the A and B but I have so much on my plate with real projects that I can justify the time it would take. Maybe some day. BTW, the grill is a '52 Buick. 

That Budd/hubcap combo looks fantastic. I've never seen hubs like that before

My axle is an FA505

I know this is an old thread but I just found it yesterday. I have a '59 B61 with maxi's so I snapped a pic in case it may be helpful to someone. 

In my Pete's I run 100#. I am still pondering what I will run in my B. I'm thinking 50-60. In my Model A pickup, I was running 32 like I typically do (and I believe it says on the sidewall) but the truck is so light on the back that they were rock hard and it was ROUGH with coil overs. I dropped the pressure down to 22 IIRC, basically to where I thought the sidewall "looked" right. On Ag tires, air pressure is determined by squat. The 710 70R 42's on my sprayer, according to Firestone, should be 36" from ground to centre so that is where I set the air (loaded) , 16PSI in back, 12PSI in front. Point is, it depends on what you are doing with the rig. BIG difference between my Pete (body job) which carries 16 Tonnes and my B which will carry the weight of a 5th wheel holiday trailer (and not a heavy one). 

Thanks. I am going to try to find out, just wanted to see of it had already been tried first.