Joey Mack
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Status Replies posted by Joey Mack
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I’m going to try to make the truck show tomorrow at the NC transportation museum, I’ll bring the 55 LTH . Let me know if you’re in the area.
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I’m going to try to make the truck show tomorrow at the NC transportation museum, I’ll bring the 55 LTH . Let me know if you’re in the area.
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E7 454 Random/ intermediate shutdown
hey guys ive got a 1998 CHR Vmac 2 with a E7 454 engine, truck is a salt field truck that has come into the workshop for a suspected electrical fault, engine will start to stall and then grab revs last minute before shutting off, then idle fine with no faults, or will stall all together and then when u try to start it again it will crank with no start. when it first came in battery's where dead, alternator belts where extremely loose and main battery earth cable was split. replaced battery's fixed earth cable, tightened up belt then checked DTC's only found three fault in system, ( fuel rack position sensor/ current below normal or open circuit, Fuel actuator/ current below normal or open circuit and Timing sensor/ data erratic, intermittent or incorrect).
with these faults i checked over the wiring to the inline pump and found the connector had bear wires showing, replaced and re-pined a new plug, and repaired a few other rubbed wire's in the engine harness by the alternator. once done cleared codes in the truck, truck started up fine and would run fine for a while drove around yard no problem for two days but then when i went to park up on the fence for customer truck faulted again tried checking for any DTC's nothing was logged both active or inactive. if anyone's come across a fault that sounds the same and has a idea what to check out that would be great as this is the first time in dealing with this old of a truck.
UPDATE...
found out what was wrong. the customer has had this truck at another shop for the same faults and didnt say anything about it, but what they did was cut all the wires at the ECU and ran 7 core trailer wiring out the LHS of the Cab firewall all the way to the pump, Bypassing the cab loom and engine harness, but what they did was they wired it up wrong at the pump side and ECU plug, finally found a wiring diagram and yeah found what they had done, so re-wired it all and put a new RPM/TDC sensor on and now she runs like a dream.
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E7 454 Random/ intermediate shutdown
hey guys ive got a 1998 CHR Vmac 2 with a E7 454 engine, truck is a salt field truck that has come into the workshop for a suspected electrical fault, engine will start to stall and then grab revs last minute before shutting off, then idle fine with no faults, or will stall all together and then when u try to start it again it will crank with no start. when it first came in battery's where dead, alternator belts where extremely loose and main battery earth cable was split. replaced battery's fixed earth cable, tightened up belt then checked DTC's only found three fault in system, ( fuel rack position sensor/ current below normal or open circuit, Fuel actuator/ current below normal or open circuit and Timing sensor/ data erratic, intermittent or incorrect).
with these faults i checked over the wiring to the inline pump and found the connector had bear wires showing, replaced and re-pined a new plug, and repaired a few other rubbed wire's in the engine harness by the alternator. once done cleared codes in the truck, truck started up fine and would run fine for a while drove around yard no problem for two days but then when i went to park up on the fence for customer truck faulted again tried checking for any DTC's nothing was logged both active or inactive. if anyone's come across a fault that sounds the same and has a idea what to check out that would be great as this is the first time in dealing with this old of a truck.
UPDATE...
found out what was wrong. the customer has had this truck at another shop for the same faults and didnt say anything about it, but what they did was cut all the wires at the ECU and ran 7 core trailer wiring out the LHS of the Cab firewall all the way to the pump, Bypassing the cab loom and engine harness, but what they did was they wired it up wrong at the pump side and ECU plug, finally found a wiring diagram and yeah found what they had done, so re-wired it all and put a new RPM/TDC sensor on and now she runs like a dream.
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check the sensor in the flywheel housing on the left side.. if it and the wires are good, remove it, and inspect the tip. then, if good install it, til it touches and and back it it out 1 full turn, then lock it down.. also, check the electric plug on the injection pump for loose/weak contacts and cracked wires just inside the plug ends.. Do Not throw money at it before checking the basics. That Series engine is tough as nails..
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You need to start a topic on this.. status updates don't get much exposure.. you can copy and paste what you wrote, into a new thread.
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1999 E7 460. I have lots of fuel in the oil. This problem only started after we replaced the heads and rebuilt the jakes.
My mechanic did say that he found a couple of the head bolts around the #4 cylinder on the eup side to have pipe dope on them when he removed them. I have always had a slight oil leak around the back side of #4 eup.
Is this typical or do I have a bigger problem like a cracked block? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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1999 E7 460. I have lots of fuel in the oil. This problem only started after we replaced the heads and rebuilt the jakes.
My mechanic did say that he found a couple of the head bolts around the #4 cylinder on the eup side to have pipe dope on them when he removed them. I have always had a slight oil leak around the back side of #4 eup.
Is this typical or do I have a bigger problem like a cracked block? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Fuel travels through the heads as a return. There are 2 plugs on the top ends of each head. That's the gallery.. the EUP's are fed and returned through the block and sealed by 2 orings.. those galleries, run horizontally. If you look behind the #6 EUP on the back of the block, there are 2 1/4" pipe plugs.. they run all the way to the front. In front one is visible behind the over board breather, the lower one is hidden behind the timing cover.. I have found that one leaking fuel. I always re-seal those 2 front plugs when I do a rebuild. The fuel may be passing by the EUP o-rings. Check fuel pressure. 65-80 is good. Near 100 PSI is a bit high and can cause a leak. Are you sure the head bolts are doped and not the lower exhaust manifold studs. They leak oil and need to be doped.. jojo
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would you have any insight on 2005 Mack CHN613 cluster gauges turning on and off randomly?
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ok.. heres a quicky... there is a ground to the left of the fuse panel in the dash. clean it really good, remove the paint and throw the star washer away, do the same behind the cluster to the ground on the left.. then clean the ground on the frame rail behind the left steer tire.. there is a big ground bolt on the engine block in front of the starter.. it WILL cause this issue. then go up to the firewall, and clean the black ground breaker that is next to the relay. right below the center of the windshield... clean all to bare metal, then re-test.. jojo,,,,,, its my bedtime,, good luck
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would you have any insight on 2005 Mack CHN613 cluster gauges turning on and off randomly?
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would you have any insight on 2005 Mack CHN613 cluster gauges turning on and off randomly?
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would you have any insight on 2005 Mack CHN613 cluster gauges turning on and off randomly?
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would you have any insight on 2005 Mack CHN613 cluster gauges turning on and off randomly?
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My 2007 chn 613 with a 460 and when im pulling a load say down the highway and i have to come to a quick stop off a ramp or even off the highway say a hill and i got to come to a redlight my turbo will blow off and ill only have engine power till about 3rd gear my turbo will finally build boost again has anyone experienced this problem..thanks
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Hey does anyone know the torque spec going from the turbo to the manifold on a cv713 370 2006?
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Hey does anyone know the torque spec going from the turbo to the manifold on a cv713 370 2006?
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I am looking for some insight on my 1985 E6 as far as putting engine brake on it and torque specs to do rod and mains in it. I am a mobile diesel engine service that specializes in Cat, Cummins, PACCAR. Mack is not my strong point. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you to all!!!
Bill
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I am looking for some insight on my 1985 E6 as far as putting engine brake on it and torque specs to do rod and mains in it. I am a mobile diesel engine service that specializes in Cat, Cummins, PACCAR. Mack is not my strong point. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you to all!!!
Bill
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Greetings. I am new to the group and had a question regarding my Tachometer. It is on a 2005 Mack Granit CV713 Dump Truck. I had the instrument trim out today to repair a crack in it. While I had the cover out I decided to wipe down the gauges. I moved the Tach needle out of position. After repositioning the needle back to where it should be I start the truck up and the needle points downward. While the truck is running I moved the needle with my finger to 650 RPM's. When I press on the accelerator the Tach responds normal. When I turn the truck off it goes straight down to the six o'clock position. Than when I start the truck back up the needle does not move. Is there a way to reset the electronic Tachometer?
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Greetings. I am new to the group and had a question regarding my Tachometer. It is on a 2005 Mack Granit CV713 Dump Truck. I had the instrument trim out today to repair a crack in it. While I had the cover out I decided to wipe down the gauges. I moved the Tach needle out of position. After repositioning the needle back to where it should be I start the truck up and the needle points downward. While the truck is running I moved the needle with my finger to 650 RPM's. When I press on the accelerator the Tach responds normal. When I turn the truck off it goes straight down to the six o'clock position. Than when I start the truck back up the needle does not move. Is there a way to reset the electronic Tachometer?
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Mask's Don't Work!!!!!
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I have an 86 r model Mack and the a/c turns on but the cable connected to the switch that moves left to right to have air blow out front vents is broken!! The switch will not move. The cable runs back into metal box I can’t even stick my hand back to.. what is this cable called and where does it go? Not sure how to get back to it without tearing the whole dash apart
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my 05 mack is building up to much air pressure and blowing water hoses and oil in my air tank what can this be?
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I just want a cold beer. Merry Christmas Dog, Jojo 😀
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Howdy, Diesel man..... I'm also new here,,, ,, Bring the knowledge on the Volvo/Macks... There are a lot of folks needing guidance on them...... Of course it's all about the exhaust system, starting at the turbo, or is it 'in Sweden'?// anyway, just having fun ... Welcome to the show, Jojo
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I live in Salisbury, N.C. for the last 15 years.. I was a driver for a few years,, O.T.R. and then local construction,1998-2002... in Maine driving late 70's R models and Dm's... Ive been fixin them for 21 years now... just fixed an 8LL today in a 99 VHD... I have an Isuzu NPR that i use for my mobile truck repair. I am a 1 man show... Thanks for checking in... Stay in touch, Jojo
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