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DieselDog5.9

Bulldog
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Everything posted by DieselDog5.9

  1. I always thought Mack Transmissions were wicked rugged, 6 speed and 12 speed especially, figured 18 speed would be similar, didn't think you could break one.
  2. These allen bolts were loose, took off with my fingers, looks like they hit the plate.
  3. Yes, took me a minute to figure that one out, moved the gears a wisker to line up on a gear flat, they could have designed the tool with the bolts 3/4 inch lower, got your message when I got home was glad to get verification. This picture shows the tool in place and the rear box off.
  4. Sorry not sure how I did this but truck is a CV700, not a CL. Yes I agree on the bell housing, just changed one on a W900 last week, actually had a cast iron Halo bell housing that broke, not sure but feel like W900 may have been wrecked at one time.
  5. No ISX here, In Northern New England we dont mess with macks and do funky new age stuff, Macks are Macks, E7, Mack Trans(12spd prefered), camelback, with spoke wheels, once in a while some hippy will have an 8LL Eaton Fuller. I would guess within 30 miles I have the largest concentration of E9's in the country. One retired logger I know has a marine E9 they put Jakes on. The publication number is 10-701, hard to find things on that site but I looked at the kent moore book and got the number.
  6. We did think about switching to an Eaton Fuller 18 Speed, but need to get back to work without the BS of extending the driveshaft and other associated bs that would need to be modified. She is an ornery shifting bitch.
  7. Funny Truck Shop sent me over here and refered to someone by the handle Mack Technician. (on a truck website can it be a handle rather than some computer guy term)
  8. So I have a 2003 CV 700 with an 18 speed, T318 Perhaps, and the syncroniser is junk, aparently this is the week point in this transmission. Here is the Question, Rumor has it the rear of the box can be removed and the syncronizer changed in the truck with a special tool to hold the counter shafts. Is this more of a pain timing the countershafts, or is it worth the hastle to keep from removing the transmission? Is there a special instructions for doing this proceedure? What is the special tool and how can I source one? All information Apreciated.
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