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DieselDog5.9

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Everything posted by DieselDog5.9

  1. It is a Mack transmission, It was advertised as an 8LL, However it is not, It is an 8 speed with a low, no extra blue button Low, just down to the left low. The tachometer, reads pretty high, and has various colors on it that it states are good for engine brake. If I remember correctly the 310 is a version of the 18 speed Mack transmission. Last 18 speed mack I had apart to repair the Hi/lo, the repair parts were almost the cost of a used Fuller 18 speed.
  2. My 2 cents would be to look at it as 2 separate shifts, one to pull out of gear and one to put it into gear. Personally I tap the clutch to pull out of say 5th gear when down shifting and float the transmission into 4th gear.
  3. Just bought a CV713 Granite dump truck. I was looking for a fancy Peterbilt or Western Star with a C15 Cat or N14 Cummins, but those are big money. I have a few customers in my mechanic business that have 03 Macks and they seem to get good service from them and day in day out they just haul dirt without the flash, so I followed their lead. Coming out of a truck with a Big Cam 400 and a 15 speed, this Mack E7 400, Mack 9 speed is a totally different truck to drive. Any driving tips for RPMs and such appreciated, also any issues I should be looking out for. 18 Front, 44 mack rears, Chalmers suspension, Mack 9 speed, single frame.
  4. First I would like to say engineers are stupid, whoever designed this should just quite, and go sell kites at the beach. Second is this normal? The plate is offset from some of the pins, says nothing in the service manual and I have twisted this plate until i was blue in the face, figure it must twist when shifted. Bought the "Update Kit" with new synchroniser plate and gears.
  5. The owner of the truck insists on Mack parts, and I think the down time for him is the bigger cost right now, tore it apart saturday, put parts order in this morning, could have parts Tuesday, fingers crossed. My fear is forgetting 1 oring that will hold up the whole job. Judging by your comment puchasing the injector cup tools for C15 last month was a good investment.
  6. I always thought Mack Transmissions were wicked rugged, 6 speed and 12 speed especially, figured 18 speed would be similar, didn't think you could break one.
  7. These allen bolts were loose, took off with my fingers, looks like they hit the plate.
  8. Snap ring broken in outer groove.
  9. Yes, took me a minute to figure that one out, moved the gears a wisker to line up on a gear flat, they could have designed the tool with the bolts 3/4 inch lower, got your message when I got home was glad to get verification. This picture shows the tool in place and the rear box off.
  10. On ATHS website, may be an old listing.
  11. H Hopefully these will do the job
  12. Sorry not sure how I did this but truck is a CV700, not a CL. Yes I agree on the bell housing, just changed one on a W900 last week, actually had a cast iron Halo bell housing that broke, not sure but feel like W900 may have been wrecked at one time.
  13. No ISX here, In Northern New England we dont mess with macks and do funky new age stuff, Macks are Macks, E7, Mack Trans(12spd prefered), camelback, with spoke wheels, once in a while some hippy will have an 8LL Eaton Fuller. I would guess within 30 miles I have the largest concentration of E9's in the country. One retired logger I know has a marine E9 they put Jakes on. The publication number is 10-701, hard to find things on that site but I looked at the kent moore book and got the number.
  14. We did think about switching to an Eaton Fuller 18 Speed, but need to get back to work without the BS of extending the driveshaft and other associated bs that would need to be modified. She is an ornery shifting bitch.
  15. Funny Truck Shop sent me over here and refered to someone by the handle Mack Technician. (on a truck website can it be a handle rather than some computer guy term)
  16. So I have a 2003 CV 700 with an 18 speed, T318 Perhaps, and the syncroniser is junk, aparently this is the week point in this transmission. Here is the Question, Rumor has it the rear of the box can be removed and the syncronizer changed in the truck with a special tool to hold the counter shafts. Is this more of a pain timing the countershafts, or is it worth the hastle to keep from removing the transmission? Is there a special instructions for doing this proceedure? What is the special tool and how can I source one? All information Apreciated.
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