DieselDog5.9

So my experience is with the 18 speed transmissions, but assuming they have similarities, front box has 6 gears, rear box has high low split and reverse. In my opinion you have an o-ring that is cracked and allowing air into the case, now in the 18 speed the rear piston is for high low, and can be replaced externally. The reverse piston I think is on top of the transmission.

I was assuming also that it was the overdrive version. 5th being direct? From the conversation the Owner and I had noisy all the time, hi or low side.

So we pulled a 6 speed out and put a 12 speed in 3-4 years ago. The hired driver, (nice guy, just young and inexperienced) had to drive the old R model while the Granite was out of commission for a few days........ Well now 4th gear is noisy in high or low, so thoughts? I think there are 2 versions of this 12 speed, one for off highway trucks a little lower geared and a highway version, we have the highway version.

Is the T310M the ten speed with selectable reverse, similar to an old twelve speed? 5 reverse gears, yellow selector lever?

Just got a quote from Mack for 2 new rails. 26k not installed. Our frame is not awful rusted but the spread is bad. 3/4 inch. Cannot just get a whole frame rail from supplier because an R model frame is "Fashioned" in the front and they do not do that only straight frames. Guess I am looking at 2 options: Cutting the outer frame off, sand blasting and putting back together and welding. Reading here I see some have done this but couple of questions. Where is a good spot under the cab to cut that you can get under there and weld back together. Will the frame come back together as it is spread pretty far apart from original. 2. Pull the inner frame rails out Lots more work but no welded joint Will the frames come back together What is going to be a complete SOB when pulling the inner rails out? Would love some more pictures of some others experiences with this repair.

I had a friend put a marine engine in a superliner, had to come up with some jakes and rework the pump for variable speed governor.

Whoever posted this is my hero.

A few buddies of mine LOVE the 12 speed in dump trucks. I could sell every 12speed I could get my hands on.

As it is 65 mph is 1800 rpm

I would have to buy a fuller 18 speed $5,000, find the fuller linkage and bell housing, Lengthen the drive shaft. I have $1200 into the Mack 18 speed.

Woops, I made a mistake, just went to the file to verify from the specifications Mack gave us from the VIN: 4:64 rears T309L Transmission

Does someone have a chart with the ratios for both transmissions so I can compare. They made a 2100 ft/lbs torque version IIRC, for the cummins and Cats that you could get, Odd to me you would get a Cummins engine and choose a Mack transmission but I guess. I thought that was the 2180B It would appear they are the same front box, but the rear box makes the 9 vs 18. I have 4:64 rears and with the 9 speed it is just right for a trailer, 70mph is out of the question, I think the 18 speed would give me a reverse with a high split. I did a 6spd to 12 speed swap before, and they apparently had an off road version and an on road version well just my luck I put a highway trans in a dump truck, worked out better than the 6 speed but still would have liked the off road version. 12 speeds are hard to find. That extra gear between 8th and 9th is really what I am after.

Have a CV713 Granite, with an AI 400 that is finicky to drive, (working on the cure following the dead dog thread closely) however just need more gears. Current Transmission is a Mack T309L/LL great low speed reverse and low gear, short on gears in the high side, the rpm spread in the gears is to wide for the limited rpm range the Ai400 makes power in, and a mean shifting SOB. Solution: picked up a transmission the owner states is and 18 speed, makes noise when on the low side. This transmission is a T2180, not sure about any particulars, suchs as gearing and what not, my truck being an 03 would be a 300 series transmission, is this T2180 a bad choice? I have a lot of experience rebuilding Eaton Fuller transmissions, I have rebuilt the back box on a Mack 18 speed 300 series (318L/LL Maybe) and the parts are somewhat pricey for the HI/LO clutch pack from Mack. Originally I was going to swap a Fuller 18 but thought going mack for mack would be less fabrication an coming up with parts.

Ice was totally blocking fuel line

The perfect transmission is an 18 speed, has an overdrive and a deep low gear. With these transmissions you have one or the other, 13 speed you can split shifts on the high side and you will like that if you are traveling in the 45 to 70 mph range alot. 9 speed has a low that you will like on the jobsite.

I am going to add my 2 cents, just read all 4 pages, and live in the north, probably similar climate to Sledog, and spent multiple days last week getting machines started due to the cold. Put 2 new fuel filters on. When the fuel filters are off, pump the primer and verify fuel is flowing to the filter, and work systematicly through the lines verifying that fuel is getting to the fuel rail. For me when a truck runs then dies and it is cold out I suspect jelling. This time of year is more prone to jelling as summer fuel is in some of the bulk tanks still, and will gell at 30 degrees, It was 10 degrees here, sure Rochester is the same. Once gelled the wax doesn't go back to diesel without chemical treatment. Any low points in the line can accumulate water and freeze. Attatched is a photo from a skidsteer last week low point in the line collected water, primer would pump fuel through the line to the filter but put the line on and wouldn't pump a drop. Machine started then died, wouldn't start afterword. Use some diesel 911 in the tank. Red bottle. I will work on attaching photo, missing some technical skill for that.

What rear axle ratio do you have in the truck? What Engine do you have in the truck? What size tires do you have?

An E7 427 as far as I can tell is the best that Mack had to offer. When these trucks were new their was some tuning the Mack garage could do to pull better power out of them. Looking back at your post this truck being a 91, it is a mechanical engine, you are better with that engine than any other. As for parts: Iowa has a lot of options for truck parts, But compare prices, some truck dismantlers are higher priced than others.

Lets have a picture of the truck, maybe that will help with what we are talking about. Some of the best trucks made are from about 85 to 2005, your truck is right in the middle, and in the 90's Mack engines ran well for short money. An E9 is cool, and if you have a super liner with an 500 that is cool, but there is alot of money to keep one going and you have to be careful how you run them. A 400 E7 you can run all day every day cheap.

Seems to be random, one morning it will fire up right off, another it will crank for a long time. And warm or cold makes no difference. I did pump the primer hard one morning when it was doing it and no difference which had me scratching my head. I will look into the sensor issues, are the cam and crank sensors easy to locate, assume the crank sensor is above the harmonic balancer?

I have an AI 400, not sure if that is a "E-Tech", but the 400 falls on its face below 1500 Rpm, which is the complete opposite of what the old tride and true Macks of the 80's and early 90's did. The transmission can make a big difference if you have some gears to work with, and multiple posts on here about solving some of these power issues.

Sometimes turn the engine over and it starts right up, sometimes crank it over multiple times before it will take off. Changed the fitting on the side of the block thinking it was not holding fuel pressure, acts like a check valve that is not holding its prime.

Take the line off the range cylinder and put some air tool oil to it. This may help an old dried out O-ring.

This is similar to the sequence Cummins uses for injectors.

Pretty sure the buzzer died, the dash light says low air pressure but the buzzer doesn't come on, switching the power divider lock on or the turn signals on doesnt make it buzz either,( they use the same buzzer best I can tell) The buzzer sounds like is integrated into the dash cluster and is almost a grand to replace. So working on hooking up a regular buzzer from napa, the advantage is no buzzer when turn signal or power divider in. But which switch is for the low air buzzer to tap into?