mechohaulic

what are you using for a muffler or it's a straight-out pipe? not that the masterpiece needs anything else; but a classy pinstripe would put it over the top 

On 4/3/2024 at 2:16 PM, skydawg said:

Hi,can anyone identify these? I think the big boy on the right is a Luberfiner 750,no idea about the smaller one on the left. And the small one in the middle is a gas filter that you rotate the top to scrape the crud off the wall of the can?Also,someone added what looks like black silicone seal to the cap of the big filter even tho the flat rubber gasket looks to be good.Is this common practice for added leak stopping?Btw,I took the clamp off the lid,it isn`t missing.Thanks in advance.

big -luber as stated/ small fuel with scrapper inside have seen and worked on. the middle should be the power steering. did you trace the lines ?? one to PS pump other to box ?? 

guess we can try to be positive and go with the idea this climate change is nature doing its thing. many scientist believe a meteor hit this planet causing a dust cloud which wipe out the dinos. which started the ice age. can't confirm that theory due to believe it or not  I wasn't there; I showed up few years later. no matter what did it or continues to do it;; as kid I remember when winters were long and cold  with lots of snow. not much snow few years in CT.

15 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Watched the second video this morning 

All pretty impressive to me, well done to all involved 

I guess thats the easy part done

And yes shifting big extremly over size things is a challenge 

Dunno how wide that trailer is but probably every bit of 15 feet or more

I'm shifting a trailer in the coming weeks that is way over size and the paper work etc gets complicated to say the least, and it's no were near that size, just over 17 feet wide and about 60 feet long 

Just load this stuff is a challenge 

 

Paul

 

well I sure do hope the B M T crew will get to see pictures/ video of the 17 ft'er being moved. THANK YOU in advance.

no offence to author of post BUT this late at night it is somewhat comical.  not to go off topic but I have yesterday's new paper !! sorry couldn't help myself: I do see it is listed in "parts for sale "🙄

THANK YOU SIR . there are some small advantages of being older (ancient );  today's world of diagnostics seems to start at the high-tech side by passing the basics first. pump out put shaft linkage should be a spring-loaded arm. manual working arm can easily give eng more RPM's, few worn pivots can greatly affect things.

it's unique in its own way. so different looking makes it sharp looking rig. bet if you have stopping situation ; just pull the lanyard for that trumpet on roof  . will make as much noise as a jake and possibly the same hold back, LOL 

15 hours ago, allfritz123 said:

The engine I am working on actually has an aluminum housing with a separate cast iron seal housing.  So the leak has to come from that separate seal housing as there is no contact between the crankcase oil and the bell housing I believe.  As stated, you have to line up the bell housing to the crank and the seal housing to the crank.  The old EM6 engine does have a cast housing and a somewhat different seal housing (maybe like an old lead seal??).  I never removed the flywheel from that engine but when I peered up with the oil pan off, you can actually see the back side of the rubber seal.  It also had a v-shaped profile (less material at the center) where the oil pan gasket contacted.  This E6 engine you can not see the seal with the oil pan removed. 

We took the truck for a cruise today (even thought it has the parasitic oil leak).  Initially, this engine was set to run at 1550 RPM maximum as far as I can see.  I managed to get 1700 RPM out of the engine when stationary by allowing more free travel stroke on the pump lever by removing the forward limiting screw.  However, it refuses to get past about 1550 RPM (governed) while doing a road test.  So I gained nothing by giving the lever more stroke.  I can get a top end out of this truck at about 55 MPH and 1550 RPM!

We talked to a local diesel shop.  They said the RPM can be adjusted with the fuel pump (Robert Bosch) in place but they said you likely can't increase it enough without changing the weights on the governor.    They are not sure if they would be able to source the weights required to do that mod.   It sounds like they can do this all while the fuel pump is on the engine.

The engine runs good but it certainly doesn't have the power the old maxidyne EM6-285 did.  Maybe it is due to the puff limiter valve being bypassed on that one and possibly the pump being set up a bit?  Apparently that was easy to do on an American Bosch pump.     I pulled some hills with this truck (empty) and I only saw about 700 F or so on the pyrometer.  Very nice and quiet engine.  I did notice the hesitation going up the hill likely caused by the puff limiter response when I stepped on it.  There was a noticeable delay in the spooling but no smoke!  The old gal used to respond quicker but lots of smoke and a quicker more rapid pyrometer increase as well!  

with such a difference in RPM's stationary VS road test; a far outer space question for me is what shape are the cab mounts ?? air ride or stationary mount ?  when you got1700 rpm's did you work the pump with total linkage connected to pedal or manual pump operation using only lever on pump ?? worn linkage pedal to pump ? road test pedal not full max ?? 

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

really Mech,  If I did do a rope or lead seal, Earl, was holding my hand..  He was my Mentor..   My Mack Dad..  He raised me on Mack's 23 years ago..   He is Home now, but he will never leave my heart...  Jojo

Thankfully I also have those Mentors even today which are no longer here to physically help but they "offer assistance "in their own way. no offence but I must correct your statement. Earl  WAS  my mentor: Earl IS your mentor. to this very day.

probably wrong (again) BUT racking brain cells , engines having lead rear seal on  bellhousing ALSO  had a crankshaft which had a deflector  made on crank just before the seal housing. the lead seal didn't have as much lube hitting it. lead seal took a few tries.  a piece of lead 1/8th+ - dia . place in seal housing then with a round punch or round stock keep working lead into groove. no micrometers, measuring. Dial indicators. hold housing backwards trial / error over crankshaft. oh the good days.

12 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

 that engine has a cast iron flywheel housing with a seperate seal housing.  the flywheel housing is checked for 'run-out', and locked down, the seal housing is seperate, and the the seal is installed,  older seal housings used a lead seal that was massaged in to place,  I have never replaced those.. 

You never replaced a lead seal ???come on now. they came out after the Nino/pinta / Santa Maria .🤣. well truthfully those three had rope rear seals LMAO. even after the lead seal , it was the same basic separate housing which bolted to rear flywheel housing. have to reread  JoeH  text. other then it was alum;; it still should have had separate oil seal housing ??? no ?? . a crack that high up by starter area  would have an external leak ?? 

also ::there are no such things as a dumb question. more over it's "dumber to have a question and NOT ask it; just sayin

I will put a serious attempt to go over to #1 R-607T =1001 and take some pictures for comparison . #1 is not a BCR and memory cannot compare these two. I know it does NOT have the short oil filter. another project has taken monday (possibly beyond LOL). keep searching recommended locations for a vin/ serial number.

THANK YOU ;; Bob for the pictures . seems like a lot of neat stuff to me. with moving from here(Watertown, CT)   a strong possibility, the less I have the better for now. for those contemplating retirement. hope you do better then I. never make plans but have high hopes of trip to NC. all it took was a phone call today changed plans for NC trip next week. farmer friend calls ; says " hey a guy has a farm tractor(diesel) and much more" , cleaning his yard = what's ever left is going to scrap . Monday am going to look at the tractor and what ever else in yard and barns.  asking price for everything/anything== $ 0 , guy wants to see stuff go to good home not scrap yard. I'm counting hrs till monday am. do I need another project ??? nope! can I pass up a free diesel tractor == NOPE . LOL

On 4/2/2024 at 3:13 PM, Barry said:

This coin is flying off the shelves!  We only have about 25 more to go!

I can see why !!!!!! mine just arrived. when it's thought "no way can coin two be as good or top coin one "" I'm wrong again (thankfully) . coin two is fantastic and beyond. I don't get excited much but these are nice looking  and well made. THANK YOU ; Barry. side note :: anyone who has purchased  the coins have number 54 or 55 of coin two. wild idea I have to complete the set having same number. I know I'm a sick bast--d ! LOL .. I will trade you a 44 or 45 from coin set two(which I have)  for a 54/55 from set two ; one for one  I will pay postage/ shipping or what ever. 

2 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Is this it?: https://www.auctionzip.com/auction-lot/mack-and-brockway-truck-brochures-ten-mack-from-1_7A842F8B50?catalogReferredQueryParam=%3Fkeywords%3DMack

Hope someone here can get it! 

yes  Sir  You have found it. can't figure this computer stuff too well for posting things as web sites,  does look to have many items of interest.  THANK YOU  for showing correct site. 

not associated with me. found this on auction zip.   winter associates auctioneers has auction this saturday having many vintage auto related material. special interest is lot # 270 having Mack Bouchers, other lots = other trucks. sure hope this is helpful and didn't mess up someone here bidding. items are in Plainville, CT. 

also keep in mind; since that service manual was written :: mid 60's ==oil technology has changed drastically. hopefully others on here having vintage trucks/ engines will provide insight as to modern day recommendations for oil.

these latest pictures favor more the B C R idea. 1- those radiator front side panels look to be VERY EARLY change over or homemade. solid metal work not factory metal with imitation grooves pressed in. 2- other then someone installed an alternator, engine goes to the "B" model family. early intake manifold/ much older oil filter.3- radiator smaller B style having framework around it going to fire wall. 4- older style shutter stat. 5- oil fill on front valve cover; not side of block,6- non turbo? . 7- radiator fill =older version. 7- starter might be on passenger side; can't see in picture. still a real nice unit. 

small piece left side of vent hole is the challenge. could be the work of an impeller; but hole is to clear cut. BMT " doctors "require more specific info please. is it leaking / does it wobble, and thanks for picture does help a lot.  the brazing part ?????🙄

the  "adjustable " grease fitting should be on top making the hole on lower driver side, which would make sense it's location. however it does appear to be a rough cut slot or just ruff housing  casting. 100 % agreement with Geoff = purpose of the hole. what we are NOT told is whether it is leaking or just noticed the hole, by picture it could be clean from leaking or washed for photo session.  if it had bad bearings on pump shaft to carve that channel;  there should have been some serious noise at pump. take belts off and check wobble of pump shaft for quick diagnostic 

first started reading the post; was hit with "wall of confusion", the ENDTF  673 part. F was explained in following sentences. I agree 100% on your idea of faulty gauge and tapping another in system to verify first . did the high pressure just start? how long have you had this unit ?  did your change over to different oil ? ever do oil sample analyze?  side note :: what model truck ? 

thanks for the video.  as was mentioned, not cost effective to acquire the trailer since it's not original to the Mack . still a shame to see it go to torches and scrap.