mechohaulic

13 hours ago, 1961H67 said:

Good thoughts, I’m not sure when that became law, My 61 H Model had a driveline brake when I got it in 1995 , and they used it to move a 175 IHC loader for years before I got it ,,,but here in NC they were just state inspections , the federal inspection did not have to be done until about 1990 because I let my NC certificate go dead after that . Our 65 C Mack has a setup like the LTH but uses long rods instead of cables,,, Probably like you said,when they passed the law in the 60s there were several aftermarket companies making spring brake conversions. 

most long (1/2in) rods on spring brake set up were replaced with cables due to long rods had a tendency to snap from vibration and stress .

23 hours ago, mowerman said:

brake return spring i havent been able to find except one company but i think thier not in the US    that thing seems to be way stronger than it needs to be,,,mine is broken

return spring will be same as other kits, challenge is finding those kits. in the day real parts people knew kits parts by number.  having spring part number ; cross reference other kit parts breakdown. 

13 hours ago, mowerman said:

pulled S cam out a while ago bearings are very tight no play

might consider flipping the cam 180 when reinstalling. bottom side worn shoes tend to ride on drum. flip180 worn side on top .

9 hours ago, Karsen said:

I’ve always appreciated old semis all the way back to my dad taking me to car shows. I never thought there would be a day that I’d find a unique truck for myself but after some unfortunate events, I stumbled across an old Mack and fell in love with it. I talked with the old man who owned it previously and offered to exchange tractor work on his property for the truck and he agreed. 4 months later and the title is in my hand!

From my research and experience working on it so far, it has the END 864(I know it has issues, don’t be a stinker) and a quadruplex transmission. I’ve already done some work inside the cab to make preparations to drive it off the guys property and back to my house 5 miles away. I may be 19, but I’ve worked on engines since I could walk and have found a good connection to this truck already. Good thing I have the land to restore it. To my knowledge, there was 456 of these made, but that could just be a bunch of bull. Anybody have any fun facts a first time Mack owner should know about his truck?

456 made is correct. built from '63-'66 ONLY. nice  vehicle find with great future possibilities.

22 hours ago, mowerman said:

ill be glad to have this dirty work behind and start back on the body work,,,i got all new markers and an airhorn from watts,,,,anxious to repair and paint the roof,,,so i can see how everthing looks,,lol,,not sure when thats gonna happen

what are you going to use for air horn(s) ? small set duals from factory or trumpets ;one or two ??

on a Mack top mount rear  the axle tubes are lower section filled by rear plug. by "over filling the rear filler port , saves some time of jacking up opposite side ; unless the wheel seal changed is on the short side of rear. then jacking up short side is done . on a tandem axle unit both axles would have to be off ground . jack up rear axle (if that's the one having seal replaced ) would still leave front axle power divider capable of engaging, all four off ground could be a safety issue, just sayin 

12 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Could a garage door spring front a tilting 

How to Measure Garage Door Torsion Springs | IDC Spring https://share.google/xyoyYEXRk4NstNITe

Or maybe a conduit bending spring 

 

Paul

garage door springs may be too large of diam also too much spring flopping under hood when closed.  I'd go with above idea of hood spring from another brand if have to. the extensions on ends make a big difference.

22 minutes ago, terry said:

Forget the middle seal, thats what i call it, on the old applications, put a new inner seal stemco with the grit guard seal and wear ring is what i always used, and let the gear oil lube both bearings, after you get hub on,before you put outer bearing in squirt some gear oil in hub till it starts to run out. And i used to put some grease on both wheel bearings to lube till hub fills up completely.    terry

before install.turn the hub/ wheel assy so as to have the deep "pocket" inside  hub on bottom. this allows for the hub to hold more oil. also  after wheel assy installed / axle in  when filling rear with top off oil jack up the short side of housing , place finger over lower half of  filler plug . basically you are over filling rear to account for oil running in to newly replaced wheel seal assy.  sounds technical and unnecessary ; small steps to eliminate the two/ three times of checking level.

2 hours ago, Mark T said:

They're lift assist for the most part. Gotta think about it a second where they'd be if the hood was closed.  They n=may not look like much, but when they're in good shape they make the hood a lot easier to open and close.  When they're worn out or missing ( as sometimes the hook wears through or they break ) you almost need two people to open the hood, or close it without a hard landing.

I would say "you DO need two people "to close the hood without the spring assist. hard landing may crack fiberglass.

prop the hood 3/4 open laying front on wide stand having a moving blanket (to prevent hood damage) before spring removal. one long spring in closed position libel to catch on engine components. shorter spring with end extensions clears a lot of obstacles

4 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Same here.  The originator had issues with some of the comments, as I was a witness. The next day it was gone.   Frankly, the reaction was childish.  Smart guys gave smart advice and experience related to the posting..  You didnt miss much on that post..  

recent one I didn't understand was the removal of post regarding the Mack R600 info. question asked was for vin/ model numbers on door. next thing post removed.??

7 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Maybe load it to youtube or someother host site and share the link might work

Not to worry, it sounds like a interesting film

Some rig truck operators are so gentle when the load is winched past the balance point and the front wheels gently touch the ground and others are, rip tear and bust 

 

Paul

 

based on experience ; know all about the "load is winched past the balance point.  ole Diamond T wrecker was hooked to a DM600SX roll off. let out the clutch of the 5 speed /2 speed rear = next thing myself and driver sitting in passenger seat of the wrecker were staring at the blue sky's. fortunately the Dm's front wheels touched down . not an easy let down == winch was either in or out =no feathering. 

1 hour ago, mowerman said:

After I cleaned up the brake shoes, then took a shower changed my clothes I went to a small car show just down the street now getting ready to barbecue probably start cleaning the drum and hub a bit tomorrow see if I can get any grease in the S cam 

do you plan on installing center wheel seal or going to use just the outer stemco converting the wheel to oil only for inner/outer bearings, ??

1 hour ago, mowerman said:

But I did spot on Google search where the seal number was cross referenced  to something else

the 2129 seal with ring may cross over to the stemco "all in one" seal. rubber stemco seal which spins within it self  requiring no install tools,

1 hour ago, terry said:

If your real careful you can put wear ring and seal in without the tools, just can't get to heavy handed or you'll bend them up.    terry

had a good size collection of old bearings after cutting cage ; removing rollers; the inner housing from different applications fit axle housing for a safer seal ring install.  for new seal install without fancy tools , the old seal cleaned up (sometimes)  a trip to wire wheel removed outer paint just enough to fit hub bore behind new seal . 3/4 dia rod with flat plate welded to it acted as part of seal installer when tapping against old seal.

not ignorance showing at all , best to ask questions when in doubt. questions asked also benefit those with similar issues many times.

1 minute ago, blackdog2 said:

28-yard Tilcon put a smaller on to load off face into 100-tonner's  .......Crusher broke down today found it something else to do .......

thought something was "off track" with the bucket.😀

front bucket looks so small in comparison to the machine. 992 that's not even the biggest.(994 cat). not to go off topic; But the 994 not the biggest loader out there, history channel while back had the segment on machines !!! guess like any job running it would be fun for a while then become just another job. Thanks for the pictures and keep them coming.

6 minutes ago, mowerman said:

And yes there’s only one spring at the top bottom is pins with snap rings

bet you have some good words trying to reinstall that one spring.  used to have large pair of spring pliers . another easier method  ;personal  opinion only is to install top shoe with anchor pin (no need at this time for snap rings). install spring on top shoe and bottom shoe =flip bottom shoe into place. saves finger tips when attempting spring install.

1 minute ago, mowerman said:

They look 3/8s hard to say thier dripping in oil and slop right now 

anchor pins solid with snap ring/retainer cup/felt wiper in retainer ''one each side of anchor pin ?? shoes are full circle holes for anchors ,not half circle with two springs ??   shoe kit one large spring at cam end  shoes have replaceable wear pads = flat plate with two pins ?? ZEP makes a tub/ shower cleaner = works wonders on grease. parts cleaners today are for saving the environment not cleaning parts. in the day you had to wear rubber gloves when washing parts =

Just now, mowerman said:

And no, I was not planning on using air tools on them, but as mentioned, they may come already riveted

aren't they 3/8th brass bolts ??  Mack rears that age should be bolt on linings?? 

2 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Is there a number on the band ???

what band ?? beach boys/rolling stones ? if you are asking of the wear ring seal band answer is no; it's should be part of seal kit.  for a hobby truck; I would go with the stemco seal with in itself no tools required.

1 minute ago, mowerman said:

Yes 

I know ; that was in responce to JOJO asking how you found the number 2129