HugeHugh

I finally got to the compound shifter. I removed the 4 cap screws holding the shifter. The shifter, once removed, is stiff but does move. I used a small vacuum to get out some of the dirt. The rails look like the compound drive is in Lo-Split. I greased the zerk fitting and applied cleaner to the rails. The left hand rail, for the Hi-Split and Direct, seems free and will move. The right hand rail, for the Lo-Split, is firmly set and hasn't budged. My next step is to remove the floor panel so I can get better access to the top of the transmission. I have a PTO drive to service with a drive chain that needs to soak in diesel for a couple of days so I'm going to do that while I see what advice comes my way. Thanks

Hi Rob, After searching the web for a while, I agree with you about a new style fuel filter. The old Mack parts are not overflowing from the internet shelves and the original parts that are out there can be used by guys doing true restorations. I like using original parts when I can, but frankly, it will take more dollars than I have to restore this truck to its original glory. Thanks

Now that the new rear air chambers are installed the last of the known air leaks is gone and I get 120 psi. After driving the truck a bit, I found another air leak in one of the old cobbled together lines. It is time to replace all the old air lines and quit patching.

Oh my goodness the engine runs better with a new fuel filter. Amazing throttle response. I patched the holes in the old housing, but I will get a new housing when I find one.

I did take and pass the Bendix Brake School class for air brakes, but that is a far cry from having the knowledge to safely work on spring brakes. I kept the old chambers for a rainy day after I do get more training.

I need to know where to get a replacement fuel filter canister. I picked up my new WIX 33090 fuel filter today and got into cleaning the canister and I found 2 pin holes. You know there are many more just waiting to appear. Thanks.

Here is a Napa 3090 fuel filter cartridge from a 1964 B61T that hasn't been changed in a while. Don't let a filter ever get this bad. Some truck owners just don't get it.

I have a 64 B61T with a triplex TRTL72 with a "stuck" compound shifter. I'll use the suggestions on this thread to troubleshoot. I think the "out of rail" problem will be the problem in this case because that stick feels like it is locked into a bad position. Reverse, 1st and 2nd on the primary shifter work well. I'll look for grease zerks too. Thanks for the suggestions.

I did some research and talked with a diesel mechanic friend and the consensus is to not work on spring brakes even when they have a clamp. It's just not worth it. I'm told there are things, such as broken springs and spring fragments, that can cause injury even when a spring is caged. I will remove the entire canister and replace the entire canister. I found broken mounting bolts in the axle housing that need to be replaced as well. This must be the type of damage that anti-compounding valves were developed to mitigate. I finally drove the truck back and forth for a few hundred feet on Friday now that the brakes work. The primary gear set shifts from reverse, first and second smoothly. The power steering works too, which I wasn't expecting. The compound gear set shifter isn't moving a bit even when rolling. I will search the transmission section of BMT for threads related to diagnosing a frozen/stuck compound shifter.

That's awesome! Thanks for the info. I installed a new D-2 yesterday evening exactly like your photo. I bought one yesterday at the local Napa store who stocks them for $15. It has 3 ports to choose from for the tank connection and 3 ports to choose from for the unloader connection. And the bolt holes match perfectly. I'm finally up to 115 psi. I started at 30 psi but I've replaced many lines and getting steady improvement. This evening I will cage and disassemble the left rear spring brake to fix a leak there. Thanks again Freightrain.

My governor has an air leak at the top screw closest to the radiator. Do you know where I can get a rebuild kit that includes the gasket between the body halves? Aluminum tag shows 228658-27. Is Bendix the manufacturer? I've searched the Bendix site including the cross reference library but no luck yet.