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About HugeHugh


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    Cat Spring, TX

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  1. Thank you Dave and Rob for the great ideas. I checked the bores where the two needle bearings sit, and the bores are in better shape then I first thought. The housing bore and the bearing surfaces are not exactly aligned. Meaning the bearing bores are not in the middle of the housing bore. Line boring the housing sounds interesting. I'll take that housing with me when I drop off an AMC 304 V8 for machining, and see what the shop says about the clutch pedal shaft bore. I can ask about building up and hardening the clutch pedal shaft too. I found a company in BC Canada, Dendoff, that will make the 2QK2360B springs new for me at a reasonable price. I don't think my old springs are worth much from a rebuilding standpoint. Either of you ever buy new rubber pads that hold the springs in the front hanger assembly? If so, then let me know where you got them. Thanks again, Earl
  2. If I was near PA, then I would bring the assembly by for some work. I don't have a lathe, yet. It's been on my mind to get one. I finally removed the two broken cab mount bolts (1/2"-13) from the hanger yesterday. I need to punch out the remaining bearing shell today. The clutch shaft is definitely marred. The shaft bore is a bigger concern. It looks like the bearings have worn their way into the bore similar to how the leaf spring pin bushings wore into their bore. I'll know more when I get the remaining bearing shell out and get an unobstructed view. I'll check into the 660 bronze bushing idea. I've been thinking bushings could be the best fix for a shaft and bore in this condition. Definitely not fussy Just looking for an adequate fix for now.
  3. Anybody know the part number for the two needle bearings that support the clutch pedal shaft on a B61? The clutch pedal shaft sits in the driver side springhanger. The bore in the spring hander is 1.5" and the clutch pedal shaft is 1.25" in diameter. The bearing looks to be about 1" in width. The needles are about .900" in length. Anybody replaced these bearings or fixed a situation where the bearings are gone? The clutch pedal end bearing shell had worn through one side, so it came out with a screwdriver. The clutch end of the springhanger is where I pulled out the needles in the photo. The inner bearing shell is gone but the outer shell is stuck in the bore but good. Thanks. I searched by the sizes I reported and vxb.com has a SCE2020 that is 1.25 x 1.5 x 1.25 that might work.
  4. Okay. It's been a few weeks and I've made progress. The 24" air hammer bit gave me enough angle to drive out the right side pin. That pin was spinning in the hanger from the start. The air hammer bit didn't do diddly to the left side pin. I bought 8" and 12" C clamps and they had promise but wouldn't budge the left side pin more than 1/8". I was tempted to get a 40,000 psi 12" bridge C clamp and see what that would do, but decided I don't want a #50 C clamp lying around after all this is done. I decided removing the spring hanger and then the pin was the path for me. Today I was successful. Here are some pics. I used a 1" round bar and a #4 sledge to drive the pin from the left side hanger. It took 20 minutes of banging the heck out of it and all the way to the end before it fell out. I'll get all this cleaned up and find a good truck spring shop in the Houston, TX area to rebush and otherwise get me good springs. No more left side sag or worrying about the left front spring breaking! I'm liking that. I have the chance to clean up the clutch linkage as a bonus.
  5. I'm glad to know that a "C" clamp might be enough. I dug out my port-a-power unit to see how I can make it work. Thank you Rob.
  6. I'm removing the front leaf springs on my B61 and I hit a hurdle on the greasable pins. There isn't much room between the starter and the back side of the right pin. There isn't much room between the engine and the left side pin either. The right side pin will at least spin. I have a long air hammer bit coming to see if that will knock it out. The left side pin doesn't move yet. It sounds like the entire hanger has to come out of truck in order to remove the pins when the pin is really stuck. Any other worthwhile ideas to get those pins out?
  7. Here is a pic of a broken left front center leaf on a 1963 B61T. I only use the truck on my property so this won’t get fixed for a while. I’d like to here recommended solutions. Buying a used spring from someone parting a truck versus taking the spring to a spring shop.
  8. After I cleaned off the dirt, I found a Garrison 2001-10-x0 as the power assist steering valve. The Garrison rep says no metal parts are available for the valve. The pump is an Eaton "U" model pump with cylindrical steel vanes. The pressure relief poppet was installed backwards in the pump and that is why the power assist steering wasn't working. There is leak in the steering valve that I need to evaluate but the power assist is functioning. I will check with Steering Re-builders and Truck Parts in Cleveland, TX to see what they offer. Anyone familiar with Garrison know what the two numbers below the model number designate. My valve has 5 72. Do you think that is a manufacture date of May 1972?
  9. I just found this post as I begin working on my 1963 B61T power steering and I thought I would jump in here. My B61T has a small belt driven pump mounted high up on the left side of the engine. The two hydraulic pump lines run to and from a proportioning valve that is the link between the pitman arm and the steering knuckle. Two more hydraulic lines from the the proportioning valve run to and from the power assist cylinder that runs parallel to and on the back side of the front axle. I don't have any power assist in the steering at this time and I suspect the hydraulic pump isn't doing any work. I will confirm that when my hydraulic test kit arrives this Friday. There is a noticeable leak in the proportioning valve so I expect to rebuild that soon. Has anyone seen this setup? Neither my Mack service manual nor my Mack parts book shows any power steering options. The only nod to power steering is the mention of ST-A (Hydraulic Steering Fluid) "Use Type "A" Suffix "A" Automatic Transmission Fluid" in the lubricants section of the manuals . I'm hoping to find Mack part numbers when I remove the proportioning valve this weekend.
  10. This M9-18B Braden winch hasn't seen service in decades. The seals are leaking and I need to get to the winch internals. The capstans are in the way and will not come off using heat or light-duty pulling. I built a puller out of 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle iron. The push point was made of 2" x 2" x 3/16" angle iron because the 1/8" iron bent. I used a 10 ton porta-power hydraulic ram and it took most of its power to remove the driver side capstan. Here are a few pics and a short video. Notice the loud popping as the capstan hops off the shaft. The passenger side capstan came off with about 1/2 the effort. IMG_7230.MOV
  11. I'm looking for a Braden H2 vertical mount hanger bearing with the input and output shafts on the same side. The speed shifter can be on either side of the gear box frame. The one that I have has the yoke and the sprocket welded to the bearing shafts and the case has been broken and welded back together. Thanks
  12. It is a Chelsea. The model number plate looks bare of numbers.
  13. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of SAE 90 and started filling the transmission. In about 10 minutes the leak appeared in the PTO assembly on the side of the transmission. One of the drain plugs was missing from the PTO and the other one was only 1/2 way screwed in. I replaced the missing drain plug and secured in the other one and finished filling the transmission. I checked the rear axle and it was empty too. I suspect someone in the past needed gear oil and decided to drain it from this truck as it sat unused.
  14. I tend to takes things literally and that's why I was asking. I figured 50 years of lubricant development may have created suitable substitutes to a 1960's SAE 140 mineral oil. The red oil that came out of the transmission was much thicker than any ATF I've seen, but the color was similar. Thanks
  15. I drained the transmission and compound unit oil from my 1964 B61 5 speed. 1.5 pints of clean red oil came out. I can only guess why a prior owner or technician would do that. The oil looked unused. The magnetic plug showed signs of use as the photos show. The Mack operator's manual specifies SAE 140 Straight Mineral Oil where the ambient temperature is above 50 F. My local NAPA store carries a SAE 90 Mineral Oil but not the 140. I can get SAE 140 Mineral Oil online and maybe from a local oil supplier. I read online that the EP additives are not good for the yellow metals in the transmission so I'm staying away from that. Is there a modern gear oil that is as good as the mineral oil Mack specified back in the 60's? Thanks
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