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About HugeHugh

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    Truck Nut

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    Cat Spring, TX

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  1. Here is a pic of a broken left front center leaf on a 1963 B61T. I only use the truck on my property so this won’t get fixed for a while. I’d like to here recommended solutions. Buying a used spring from someone parting a truck versus taking the spring to a spring shop.
  2. After I cleaned off the dirt, I found a Garrison 2001-10-x0 as the power assist steering valve. The Garrison rep says no metal parts are available for the valve. The pump is an Eaton "U" model pump with cylindrical steel vanes. The pressure relief poppet was installed backwards in the pump and that is why the power assist steering wasn't working. There is leak in the steering valve that I need to evaluate but the power assist is functioning. I will check with Steering Re-builders and Truck Parts in Cleveland, TX to see what they offer. Anyone familiar with Garrison know what the two numbers below the model number designate. My valve has 5 72. Do you think that is a manufacture date of May 1972?
  3. I just found this post as I begin working on my 1963 B61T power steering and I thought I would jump in here. My B61T has a small belt driven pump mounted high up on the left side of the engine. The two hydraulic pump lines run to and from a proportioning valve that is the link between the pitman arm and the steering knuckle. Two more hydraulic lines from the the proportioning valve run to and from the power assist cylinder that runs parallel to and on the back side of the front axle. I don't have any power assist in the steering at this time and I suspect the hydraulic pump isn't doing any work. I will confirm that when my hydraulic test kit arrives this Friday. There is a noticeable leak in the proportioning valve so I expect to rebuild that soon. Has anyone seen this setup? Neither my Mack service manual nor my Mack parts book shows any power steering options. The only nod to power steering is the mention of ST-A (Hydraulic Steering Fluid) "Use Type "A" Suffix "A" Automatic Transmission Fluid" in the lubricants section of the manuals . I'm hoping to find Mack part numbers when I remove the proportioning valve this weekend.
  4. This M9-18B Braden winch hasn't seen service in decades. The seals are leaking and I need to get to the winch internals. The capstans are in the way and will not come off using heat or light-duty pulling. I built a puller out of 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle iron. The push point was made of 2" x 2" x 3/16" angle iron because the 1/8" iron bent. I used a 10 ton porta-power hydraulic ram and it took most of its power to remove the driver side capstan. Here are a few pics and a short video. Notice the loud popping as the capstan hops off the shaft. The passenger side capstan came off with about 1/2 the effort. IMG_7230.MOV
  5. I'm looking for a Braden H2 vertical mount hanger bearing with the input and output shafts on the same side. The speed shifter can be on either side of the gear box frame. The one that I have has the yoke and the sprocket welded to the bearing shafts and the case has been broken and welded back together. Thanks
  6. It is a Chelsea. The model number plate looks bare of numbers.
  7. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of SAE 90 and started filling the transmission. In about 10 minutes the leak appeared in the PTO assembly on the side of the transmission. One of the drain plugs was missing from the PTO and the other one was only 1/2 way screwed in. I replaced the missing drain plug and secured in the other one and finished filling the transmission. I checked the rear axle and it was empty too. I suspect someone in the past needed gear oil and decided to drain it from this truck as it sat unused.
  8. I tend to takes things literally and that's why I was asking. I figured 50 years of lubricant development may have created suitable substitutes to a 1960's SAE 140 mineral oil. The red oil that came out of the transmission was much thicker than any ATF I've seen, but the color was similar. Thanks
  9. I drained the transmission and compound unit oil from my 1964 B61 5 speed. 1.5 pints of clean red oil came out. I can only guess why a prior owner or technician would do that. The oil looked unused. The magnetic plug showed signs of use as the photos show. The Mack operator's manual specifies SAE 140 Straight Mineral Oil where the ambient temperature is above 50 F. My local NAPA store carries a SAE 90 Mineral Oil but not the 140. I can get SAE 140 Mineral Oil online and maybe from a local oil supplier. I read online that the EP additives are not good for the yellow metals in the transmission so I'm staying away from that. Is there a modern gear oil that is as good as the mineral oil Mack specified back in the 60's? Thanks
  10. I might need a set of hinges for a driver side door. I need to take the door off and evaluate the areas of wear. I'll keep you in mind. Thanks,
  11. Nice paint job and great work on the door. I am rebuilding two doors on a 64 B61 and I would appreciate information on window channel suppliers. My driver side door hinges are in poor shape and I could use advice on repairing those. I found who Watt’s is and their B model roll up window channel. http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_75 Better slow than not moving at all.👍 Thanks
  12. I just took my doors apart on a 64 B61 and I will post photos tomorrow. It should be a right of passage when you remove your first door panel without breaking anything. Here are the photos I promised. The door latch spring is a single roll of approx. 1/4" steel spring steel. You can open two tabs to disassemble the latch and get to the spring. To clean and lube the spring without removing the door panel, you need to use the opening where the latch hook resides. The spring is replaceable, but you have have to remove the door panel and replace a rivet.
  13. I finally got back to town and got a little quality time with the B61. The compound shifter linkage has been cleaned and reassembled and it shifts like butter. There was a piece of steel between the rear clevis and the transmission housing that was keeping the rail from traveling backwards. I assume the piece of steel fell through the hole for the series-parallel switch or the hole for the PTO shifter. Here is a photo of some of what I found in the dirt packed around the compound shifter linkage. Now to get the passenger door to open. Thanks again for the advice.
  14. I will try the shift mechanism after I clean the exterior. No sense forcing rust and dirt through the bushings as advised. Thanks again.
  15. Thanks Rob. I pulled the floorboard to get better access. I need to get to the treadle lines anyway. This project is part mechanical and part archaeological dig. I wonder quite a bit if this truck was ever parked in an West Texas river for a time. It has dirt everywhere. I think this truck spent much of its time in the West Texas oil fields, but it is hard to imagine even 50 years in West Texas could accumulate this much dirt. The compound shifter is removed. The Lo-Split, inside rail, is stuck inside the shifter and doesn't move. I have it soaking in diesel. I used the fine oxide sandpaper to clean the rust off as best I can. The Hi-Split, outside rail, came out of the shifter fairly easily. Is there any way to tell if the Lo-Split on the transmission will move without reinstalling the compound stick assembly. I'm not sure how much force is needed to make it move, but given the size of the shift stick, it could take more force than can be applied without the stick. That is an ancient empty pack of Marlboro Lights in the third photo. It is between the transmission and the Lo-Split linkage.
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