RobM626

On 7/7/2018 at 10:45 PM, 41chevy said:

A body shop that does heavy trucks. What area of NY are you in?

I've always used Axel Anderson in  Medford on Long Island for truck Chassis straightening and all wheel alignment.

I’m in Westchester county. Minutes away from the Bronx . I usually go to spring tech in the Bronx for alignment and suspension stuff. I gotta ask if they do chassis straightening 

4 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

All of which could be caused by the chassis being out of alignment. I would still check chassis if nothing more then peace of mind.

What kind of place should I bring it to check that out? A body shop or alignment place?

I paid 1343 for my cam

166 x12 for lifter assemblies

206 x6 for eup rollers

Plus 2000 labor

13 hours ago, 41chevy said:

I posted that a while back for the chassis being out of square or bent from the loader hit. The engine could be out of line  and when the trans was R and R'd it could not go back in square. Only takes a few degrees mis alignment.

It makes sense. Gonna ask them to start measuring

18 hours ago, 1965 said:

If crank was bent I think you would’ve seen results from oil analysts & bearing wear. Like I’ve said before the adnormal clutch wear has got me stumped. If it was just missing is 1 thing; but I don’t see the miss causing the clutch wear. I’ve seen trucks with broken cranks drive to the shop. I’ve seen guys drive trucks with misses. Never heard of clutch wear like yours. I feel for you & hope you find the problem. You’ll have to keep it forever to get your money back that’s for sure. No disrespect intended.

I think the abnormal clutch wear was from the flywheel being cut wrong so the clutch’s were never seating right.

I have a lot of stuff to check. I wish I had a real E-Tech guy that can go thru this stuff with me. The last guy that put the injectors in thinks my crank is bent and that’s what’s throwing my timing off. There’s so much weird shit going on with this truck it’s drivig me crazy.

11 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

Mack corporate always told us not to worry about blow-by . Oil consumption is what they looked at. My friends 99 CL had bad blow-by from the 500,000 mile mark up to a little over a million mile mark when we over hauled it. Used a gallon of oil per 8,000-10,000 miles. Steady  stream of blow-by don't bother me. It's the puffing blow by you gotta watch out for.

First I heard that. Thanks for the tip.

my old mechanic told me I think it was CAT, that they don’t recognize blow by

3 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

http://hr.mckenzietank.com/maint/bulletins/45-sb212025.pdf

Yea that the bulletin I saw too... I still think I should’ve put a vibratech. The Mack damper costed me over 1000$ . And their 19$ bolts

2 hours ago, fjh said:

This post is so dam long I don't want to read thru the whole thing so I will ask this and sorry if you posted it already have all the injectors been removed check and  tested ! you mentioned the Eups had been done,were all the cal codes installed on the off chance this could make a difference!

I was told the injectors were pop tested when the eup were changed but they could have lied and the injector lines were not changed . I was also told they put the cal codes in but that could have been bs too BC I know they didn’t bring the truck to the dealer. I’m gonna check all that stuff out once I get it back. The guy that has it now is taking forever. It’s a week already

2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Were do these injectors get the signal from on the motor of when to fire ?

There must be a sensor that picks up the position of the crank, were and what is it ?

Paul

The EUP’s are cam driven by rollers and there is a cam position sensor on the front of the motor and crank position sensor on the fly wheel housing. I changed both sensors. No change. I changed all 6 eup’s. The cam and the rollers. 

There is definately a misfire going on and it sounds like the cylinders are not firing balanced 

8 hours ago, GaryMac said:

Hi

May be of interest

Check 45-sb212025.pdf 

MACK new damper/mounting 2002

Gary

The link isn’t working. There was a service bulletin a while back that changed the size of the vibration damper for E-Tech engines the old damper was a couple inches smaller and had 6 bolts. When I went to Mack and gave them my vin number they gave me the new larger damper and it has more bolts but they said I can use 6 because I’m not changing the hub. I asked numerous times if it was right they said yes. I should’ve put a vibratech. I think it may have even been cheaper and they’re supposed to be really good

It’s more than I have. I have a light steam out of my oil fill tube and my crankcase breather vent is more of a steady steam. You gotta hook up a manometer to the crankcase breather vent and run it at full load and see if it’s within spec. Look under the power steering pump, there will be an 1.5” or so tube running down and you will see some steam coming from there too. 

I’m going off of my experience.im  sure the other guys on here will chime in. These guys are like genius’s when it comes to trucks, especially Mack’s

1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Hang on 

I must be realy thick , if it vibrates when its in neutral and the truck sitting still it eliminates all the rest on the Swish mans list 

And as I recall this only became real bad after a fresh cam was installed 

There is some major hints as to were to look 

Dunno much about these modern motors but the cam drives the injector pump on older motors 

If the cam is out a poofteenth it means the injector pump is out 

So I would dial um the cam just to check it

I would then spill time the pump tomake sure its fine and accurate as well

Ans lastly make sure the injector lines are still going to the correct injectors 

But if it's some flash common rail jigger you might wanna forget all of the above lol

Paul

I have an EUP motor (6 individual electronics unit pumps) . There still is the possibility the cam gear is not times perfectly. A lot of my symptoms do point to that. As far as the lines go. I had the cam dialed about 9 months ago and the lines were in spec but the cam had scratches scuffs on it. After I did the cam the truck ran differently. I thought it was going to run better but doesn’t. After I get the truck back from dropping the tranny I’m going to pop the valve covers and do some checks . Or leave the truck in the south Bronx somewhere with the windows open and keys inside with a sign saying “take me I’ll be glad to be your problem”

8 hours ago, fjh said:

I'm tapped out I'm now just hoping for some one to pull a rabbit out of the hat for ya! the good ole AHA moment would be nice about now!

Everyone is tapped out lol. When the mechanics see me come in with the truck after I get it back they start running like I’m the plague

On 6/24/2018 at 1:04 AM, Swishy said:

Think this saga haz gorn on 2 long

the pain of own n a beast with no fix 

surely a process of elimination can sort the problem

<1> Will the vibration start with the engine running in neutral with the truck stationary ?

<2> Remove tail shaft .... with the engine running in each gear upto governor with the truck stationary ?

<3> Travelling down the road when vibration starts ... chuk it in to neutral..... or and disengage the clutch any change?

<4> Try all the above and remove jack shaft between the diffs

<5> do all the wheelbases add up the same (front steer to 1st drive )(1st drive to 2nd drive) etc?

<6> Grab someone with a trained eye to follow U ... may B with a video camera

Sorry if any of the above haz already bin mentioned

cya

§wishy

 

1. Yes it’s there when in neutral and stationary

2. I’m gonna have them try that this week. I’m having them drop the tranny and put on dump to test it.

3. Yes it changes it’s not as bad

4. I will have them check out the diffs this week ... all of my shafts were recently serviced and balanced with no real change to my issue.

5. I’m going to have the alignment checked as well. 

Thanks for your input 

19 hours ago, fjh said:

So your cap outcome???what did ya see!

I didn’t personally see It BC I was working the whole day but they told me they couldn’t find any breaks but there was some bearing wear. Do u think I should put a new set of bearings in?

46 minutes ago, mackey58 said:

Nothing pisses ya off more than these shops that couldn't fix an anvil. We took a 2012 f250 to our local mech.told him it vibrates and clunks when you put the auto Tran in gear told it it might be a u joint he told us it doesn't have u joints looks like a u joint  to me

Lol

Pulled the oil pan today... nothing that popped out to show breakage or wear... gonna pull some caps tomorrow and check the journals....idk we’ll see what happens.

3 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

Could be that simple, I did that to my kubota tractor about a week ago with the same result.   Except I used shop air.    

Yea I use air first to blow as much as I can out so the water doesn’t make it like concrete. The best way to do it I found to be taking off intercooler so you can clean everything nice without damaging the fins

It’s probably the simplest possibility but try blowing out the fins and hosing it with water after. They rad could be plugged.That happened to a few of our trucks and they ran 20-30 degrees cooler after

56 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

Yes , 2 days is about right, and that's if nothing breaks ( turbo / EGR  bolts)

Yea I gotta start praying. Thanks . It’s a real pain to work on that motor

hey guys . Caught an oil leak from the recent truck 2008 GU with a mp7.and it looks like it’s coming from a hose/oil cooler on the passenger side going to back of engine. It’s a real pain in the ass to get to. Mechanic is telling me it’s prob a 2-3 day job. Does that sound accurate?

11 hours ago, bbigrig said:

E7 platform was French?

Are you referring to the E7PLN or E7 E tech?

Yea ... Renault 

renault was involved with Mack since the 80’s till 2000-2001