RobM626

54 minutes ago, MACKS said:

Doesn't sound like it's fixed to me,I would love to drive this truck to see/feel what your experiencing,..

Yea me too! Where r u located lol?

On 10/22/2018 at 4:57 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

So what's happened to this here jigger ?

Did yah get the truck sorted yet ?

 

Paul

I went in to a shop explained that I felt like clutch was binding. He “adjusted it”. I left and it felt 10times worst... so I went back to the shop that last did the work and he took me under the truck and showed me the cable was completely destroyed. And the guy the adjusted clutch screwed it even worst. I put a new cable in . It feels a lot better but I think this clutch is shot now... I really don’t have money for another clutch job. Gonna ride it out and see what happens... u were right about the binding though... thank you for that

I don’t know if this is any help but I found that my older e7’s always sounded a little noisier than the newer ones  (03-07) because I think the newer ones have spring loaded pushrods. It makes a big difference on sound especially at idle

On 8/23/2018 at 11:45 AM, Dirtymilkman said:

Sounds to me like a marred up input shaft. Shaft gets marred and the clutch catches on it. That's why it's always good practice to shift using your clutch at least once. Your friction discs will jerk and rock on the input shaft. Using the clutch prevents that. Input shaft could also have a slight twist in it. 

I changed an input shaft on the old transmission and it didn’t make a difference. It was t even damaged. And now this input shaft is new on a reman transmission. I had it sent back to the rebuilder and he check the whole transmission out and said it was fine. I even saw it and to my eyes it didn’t look like anything was wrong.

On 8/23/2018 at 11:28 AM, fjh said:

 

You said the clutch shafts are fairly new But  How old is your Clutch cable ?  If its old replace it!!! At this point if it sounds like a slipping clutch it likely is a slipping clutch In my mind the only  things you haven't changed here are the clutch pedal and the cable Never seen a clutch pedal siezed to the shaft anything is possible I guess ! I have seen clutch cables cause grief And we are Grasping At straws At this point! Also a thought here! Have you tried locking out the power divider? Is there a possibility that there is a striped axle gear and it is grabbing and slipping intermittently! When this post  first started when were focusing on the engine cause it happened all the while the engine ran ? Now we are looking at the frame? and under power? I am Officially confused ! 😣 

Clutch cable is original, was never changed.

i tried locking out power divider because rears croased my mind too. When I do it I feel more power but i still have the clutch issues.unless the slipping axel gear is messing up my clutches. When the post first started. The vibration was my issue and I always felt like it was somewhere between the flywheel and the transmission. The weird thing is is that every time they pull the tranny and put it back on all of the symptoms disappear  for like a week or so then come back all at the same time., which made me think it was all related. The problems even change throughout the whole day. It will change according to the load in carrying, the distribution of the load. Sometimes when I start the truck in the morning after not using it a couple days it drives better then goes back to the same thing after driving an hour or so... I’ve never felt or experienced anything like this with any other truck I’ve driven. It’s so crazy 

1 hour ago, Bcart1983 said:

So, I went ahead and took it to the shop today, and you guys are correct, it was the clutch.....BUT luckily  it was just out of adjustment, big time,  He said I got lucky, because it could of burnt it up. Preciate the feedback!  After he adjusted it, I  felt like i had to relearn how to drive the dang thing. It died on me 3x. 

Just go nice and easy. Don’t start in to high of a gear espcially when you’re loaded. And pay attention to your rpms when pulling don’t fall below like 1100. 

Sounds kinda like the clutch is burning up from starting in too high of a gear and shifting and the wrong rpms. 

1 hour ago, Mack Technician said:

Left me wondering about the soft custard tart? Long as the Austrailians don’t nasty it  up with a vegemite-secret-center i’d be eating a few. 

Lol

15 minutes ago, Maxidyne said:

Up until recently when Mack has gone to air assist clutches Macks have mostly used mechanical clutch linkages for decades with no binding problems. But when the frame is weakened by rust binding could become a problem. No point in messing with the clutch linkage until the powertrain has a solid frame to mount too, and a new frame may not be worth it on an 18 year old truck.

I hate those air assist clutches. They’re so mushy and the take off on the sucks in my opinion at least. I had an air leak on my granite and could not move the truck until I had like 90psi. I know you shouldn’t be driving until your tanks are full but when your pouring concrete and you need to constantly move the truck to pour a trench and your air bag on your drop axel is leaking and takes almost 2 weeks to get a new one, it takes forever to build 90psi.

headache headaches headaches with this truck. It’s a shame all this money in it and I can’t get it running right

13 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

How does it bind, I dunno with out looking my self 

It sounds like tbe clutch isnt fully returning when you take your foot off the clutch

Im thinking it is something between the out side of the box and the clutch pedal and maybe as simple as a build  up of dirt and rust on a pivot 

I would completely disassemble all the linkages and make sure all are as free as can be a slide silky smooth

Check all linkage adjustments and make sure nothing is traveling over center

I would imagine there are very definate measurements for each adjustment 

No doubt someone here can help with that info

 

FFS means for fu ks sake and SFA means sweet fu k all

 

Very common day to day speaking in Australia 

 

 

Paul 

Thank you ... will be looking into it ASAP. 

Sounds like clutch to me too.... out of curiousity, when you say you were shifting at 11-1200. Do you mean upshifting or down shifting?

That’s exactly what it feels like. Every time I try to explain that to the guys that work on it they don’t get it... the linkage is mechanical. How does it bind? And 5 clutches?

sorry for all the questions but what’s FFS AND SFA?

2 hours ago, 41chevy said:

The one in the Bronx has been around for years if it is the one with the same chassis machine as Dutchman Diesel.

Either way, with the time and money you have invested to this point having a reputable shop give you their opinion on it can't hurt and you will know exactly where you stand with it.

As for the 2020 thing, I do a lot of County, State and Federal seawall and break water work at their park sites and was told for NYS Metro area contract bidding for government jobs , 2008 and newer equipment is required. Has to do with funding sources among other things.

Yea I guess your right ... the place I was referred to in the Bronx is textron. I’m gonna find out if they have that beeline machine.

as far as the emissions goes, I heard that city and state work implemented that requirement a while ago. I picked up a couple of nice pieces of equipment for a bargain from guys that could no longer use it doing city and state work. The loader that hit my truck was one of them lol. 90% of my work is subcontracted through Con Edison and is in the 5 boroughs of the city. They havent required us to change yet but like I said I think it’s coming 2020. I dont wanna get stuck with like 5 trucks that I have a decent amount of Money invested in and not be able to use them or sell them because the local market will probably be flooded with them.

8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

 Maxidyne is probably an excellent chassis and structural repair tech/welder and has been doing it probably their entire life. It seem from their posts they have vast experience in what is most likely to be your issue. But I'll bet they will tell you the same thing as most others in their business will, unless you physically put your eyes and hands on it and carefully inspect it you are only making a guess. An educated guess but still a guess. Photos will show only a small part of the story. Maybe they are close enough to look at it for you or recommend a quality shop or tech the know near you. 

I was really thinking about checking out that place you recomended put in Medford. Someone else referred me to a place in the Bronx not far from me but I gotta find out a little more about them. The last thing I need is another shoemaker. 

Do you guys think it’s even worth fixing a rusted out frame? I keep hearing that they are going to pass a law in nyc like they did in California where you have to have an 08 or newer emissions truck. I heard it’s coming 2020. I don’t know for sure but numerous sources told me it’s happening. I feel like I’m dumping all this money into a truck I may not even be able to use for much longer

7 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

Wish we'd known that when this thread started months ago- Sounds like you may have a structurally questionable frame even before it was hit. If the frame is shifting around enough that the dump body doesn't line up with it anymore, it clearly can warp around and throw the powertrain alignment off in more ways than can be easily counted.

To be honest, every time I get under the truck to grease it and what not, I never saw the frame rust and separation past where the dump lift cylinder is.. I never thought much of it. Everything else seems tight on the truck. I’m gonna take some pictures tomorrow and post them maybe you can tell me how bad you think it looks... I know looks probably don’t mean as much as measurements do though. This is all a learning experience for me. I always thought a truck frame was STRONG. Especially a double Mack frame. I never thought these things were possible. Naive guess, or just dumb.

2 hours ago, Swishy said:

???

Cracked chassis 

unnoticeable when the crack closes up

OR loose chassis rail or cross member

cya

 

I have a double frame and rust started eating between the rails separating them... so much so on the back of the truck that my dump body doesn’t sit on the rails flush like they used to. I had to weld plates on the dump body rails to help shim it a little but it’s still not perfect. While driving it sounds more like a roll off carrying an empty box that’s not chained to the rails rather than a dump truck...

13 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Changes occur on different road conditions, turns and inclines, tend to push me more to a chassis issue.   Paul

Yup. Before the last guy did the work it was really hard to tell, it was really looking like/sounding like a motor issue. I’m pretty certain it’s not now... every time the tranny comes out and gets lined up and tightened up and clutch adjusted properly it’s great for a few days. Once u start driving and especially putting a load on the truck the problems all start to come back at the same time...another weird thing is, my clutch goes out of adjustment soooo much faster than it ever has ( on this truck or any other truck I have ever driven) I used to b able to go a Couple years without a slight adjustment for free play. Now after a couple months I lose a lot of my free play.

19 hours ago, fjh said:

The cross shafts were OK on the Clutch fork?

Put new ones in a year ago

13 hours ago, Swishy said:

RobMan

Gudday m8

we all feel n the pain with U

a report is good coz we all B learn n something

Q:? Can U see movement on the clutch bellhousing bolts  or signs of movement B tween the 2

we have a CH Mack n got a clutch job dun

L8r noticed wen up on service ramp some bolts could do with a washer or 2 under the head of bolts

tried to undo n broke bolt.... send back to clutchman n all the bolts had to B removed n re threaded

appantly they used tooo long  abolt n hi torque ugga dugga n they bolts bottomd out

jist say n

best o luck o

 

cya

There’s definitely some kind of movement going on because when I make turns or go up or Down a hill I feel changes and noises change. I checked the motor mounts they looks good and tight. I gotta have a look at the bell housing bolts. They are all new . The last time I put a clutch in a couple were missing and they put all new bolts in.

Started back up again after a week... driving me crazy.im gonna bring it to someone to check the frame out ... 41chevy may be right. The motor and tranny may be out of alignment...it’s definately not in the motor. It has to be something with how the clutch and transmission are lining up. It changes constantly throughout the day. The clutch will go a lot softer than usual and when that happens it feels like the power/torque isn’t going to the wheels. The take off from stop also sucks when that happens and the vibration gets worst. Then all of a sudden I’ll be driving and the clutch will get nice and firm again and it feels more torquey and the clunk when I press and release accelerator doesn’t appear as much. 

I didn’t even wanna come back on here and say my issue started again because I’m sure all you guys were sick of hearing about it lol

22 hours ago, Shmimc1973 said:

It says 18 speed. Im always liked my RD models. Its a upgrade too me, lol. That Update might be worth checking into. I thought about taking my 2000 RD in to see if there is any upgrades too it also.

We have one auto and one Maxitorque 8 speed. I like driving either of those more than the rd. Just a much more comfortable truck. The cab is a lot bigger and absorbs the ride better. They also handle better. That’s my opinion. 

It’s prob got an AI in it. E-Tech with an EGR. We have an 04 and an 06. It’s not horrible. They can be a little sluggish but I hear if you do the throttle response update it helps it out a little. Auto or manual?

8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

I trust them for chassis work a 100% they straightened and took the twist out of my R chassis  that I laid over on its side at about 40mph. track better than when it was first bought.

They use a Bee Line frame table. No heat, no major disassembly all laser and computer specs to check and make it factory. If you can find a shop near to you with the Bee Line system thats the best and most economical way. Sure there a shop Westchester with that machine.

Here is a shot of their chassis table.

Wow nice. Out of curiosity, what did they charge you to straighten it out?

Just now, RobM626 said:

I’m in Westchester county. Minutes away from the Bronx . I usually go to spring tech in the Bronx for alignment and suspension stuff. I gotta ask if they do chassis straightening 

Medford is kind of a troop out there. I’m very familiar with the island. That place good though?