RobM626

Hey guys I’m getting a code on a 08 mp7 mid 128 pid 94 fmi 7. Looked it up and says low fuel pressure. Driver said truck loses power when it comes on.  Where would be some places I should start looking so I don’t have to bring the truck in to a shop and lose it for 2-3 days?

On 12/19/2018 at 10:59 AM, fjh said:

So you need to clean or check the vents you not a good idea to  run around with  the caps loose! 😁

Yea I know I just loosen Ed them at the yard and tightened back up... I’m gonna grab new ones. Thank you

16 minutes ago, keg1 said:

My caps were vented to. I put a new one on it and didn't have any more problems. I cleaned the old caps good and used them on one of my r models

Cracked the caps open like you said and fuel equalized. Thanks, appreciate the advice... I personally never had a problem because I always put 80-85% in each tank. But I can’t stay on everyone’s ass with simple things such as fuel

34 minutes ago, keg1 said:

No it was a 2000

Yea my 2000 has a vent with a plate and 2 screws holding the plate down. The 08 doesn’t have that from what I saw other day. I think the caps are vented on the 08

4 minutes ago, keg1 said:

Happened on my Ch when I had it. Loosened both caps up and in a little while fuel equaled out. 

We’re they the newer style caps ? 08+?

26 minutes ago, fjh said:

Check your tank vents They should equalize on there own

Will check when he gets back tonight. 

Yea tell me about it... this isn’t the first thing that’s happened after specific instructions to do or not do something... and then he calls me like “this or that just happened, I don’t know why, something is wrong with the truck”

i would be too scared or embarrassed to call my boss if something happened that he specifically told me to do or not to do. I would be walking my ass to a gas station and buying a fuel can and fuel with my own money just so he didn’t find out I was screwing up the day or the truck

What’s up guys? I have 2 fuel tanks On my 08 granite with mp7. Driver has gotten lazy when fueling up and is only filling driver side tank 90% of the time and 2 times in the past 2 weeks the passenger side tank has run dry. The truck shut off both times and I had to fuel passenger side tank and re-prime fuel system to get it running again. I guess my question is does the fuel not equalize between both tanks? I told him to fill both tanks but he thinks he knows better than me and replies “but I never used to have to fill both. This never used to happen”. 

Is there a transfer pump between the tanks that could be bad?

9 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

Optishift is the right idea, but Voith's VIAB is light years ahead of it.

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Wow...I’m impressed. Especially with that VIAB!

13 minutes ago, Maxidyne said:

All the AMTs (Automated Manual Transmissions) are primarily designed for highway use, though Allison's AMT which has a torque converter might thus tolerate urban and off road use better. Volvo's single countershaft I-Shift AMT seems to do OK in highway use, probably because Volvo very tightly limits it's applications so it stays in direct drive most of the time. Then there's the iShift's $$$ 5 digit+labor rebuild price and only 5 year warranty- Many seasonal users in construction, logging, farming, etc. need to keep a truck much longer than the iShift's 5 year warranty. I'd go with the Allison automatic, though Volvo seems to demand a pretty big upcharge for it, probably to encourage you to buy their iShift. Power wise, above 455 HP Volvo really jacks up the extended warranty price.

It would be nice if Mack was able to take the reigns and design and build their own motors and transmissions again. I don’t think there’s one thing I actually like about Volvo’s products.

not that Europeans don’t make a good product. They’re ahead of us with all types of technologies. But Americans did know how to make a tough and good looking truck

38 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

But the Mack brand M-drive, a rebadged Volvo I-shift, only has one countershaft. Can one work? Obviously it's possible with precautions taken, but my personal preference from experience is to divide the load stress between two. Eaton and market leader ZF, for example, all have two.

On Eaton, we've seen almost 4 jumps in tech since their original AMT.....be sure you try their current product before your judge.

You have a point there.Multiple points!

1 hour ago, Bullheaded said:

I see the 445 rating is a lot more popular than the 505. I have read in a few sources they say they pull just as good but have better fuel mileage?

Can't go wrong with an Allison. I can't comment on gearing for them though. I've driven them but never owned one for myself. I do know they are geared a lot lower than a manual.

What do you guys run in NY.....just one lift axle? I wish our government didn't force us to use these ridiculously long trucks. We have 21 foot boxes. So on hourly jobs under the shovel they just over load you that much more. 

I have 266 inch wheelbase, 20 and 46's also. Running 4.30 gears with 18 speed manual and 22.5 rubber. Not great for fuel mileage but probably better for DPF. Plus I am all hills here. And because of this SPIF law with the self equalizing steering lift axle it is working out better to use air-ride suspension, which I already was anyway. The load cells on mechanical suspensions hasn't proved to be as reliable as far as it working properly.

I miss the articulation of my old HMX rubber block and Camelback though. And I find I get more odd tire wear with the air ride. But the air ride is better in sand and doesn't washboard the haul roads up as much. But you have to play with the dump valve lots to get traction in uneven ground.

I would like the 485 or 505 but I gotta see the price difference and see if it’s worth it

we usually run one big lift axle that matches front tires so we’re not buying different tire sizes and can rotate the fronts to the pusher if need be.

yea we need the wb to legally carry a half decent load. If I’m in nyc I can only carry like 56,000 once I leave the 5 boroughs I can carry 72,000, so the longer the better but then it’s a bitch to drive in the city when it’s too long and you got cars parked everywhere and can’t make turns.

im unsure about the air rides. They must be very comfortable to drive but I get nervous about the stability and traction of them. I love the camelback . It’s rough riding but reliable. I like them better than the Hendrickson too. I notice a lot more people running 22.5 rubber as well

Those are beautiful trucks... that triaxle is nice and long too... 

i was thinking at least 455 hp. 20k front, 46k rear, 20k pusher, spring suspension, WB at least 237”, 17.5-18’ steel high lift dump body, and I’m leaning towards the Allison tranny because we’ve had good luck with them. Change the oil and filter once a year and it’s pretty much problem free... I get mixed reviews on the Eaton ultra shift. Whoever I know that is running them don’t really like them and said they have issues With them. The m-drive I heard people like and I believe they’re built for the job especially with those creeper gears. The reason I don’t really wanna go with the automated manual is because it still has a clutch as opposed to a torque converter and in the wrong hands has potential to be abused if not driven The right way. I know how to drive them correctly but some guys don’t. If they drive it like a regular automatic they constantly slip the clutch and heat it up. I just don’t wanna open the door to unnecessary problems on a brand new truck. What do you think?

ih and geared low at least a 4.10 rear. I see some guys running even 4.80

4 minutes ago, MACKS said:

How are u grossing 85,000 lbs in NY and what size body's are u running,must be huge?

Definately not legally. Body is like 19 yards. Truck empty is 31,000 ...  I try not to put more than 20 tons but I usually have to carry 25-26 tons so that puts me at like 83,000. Whenever I can I try to not overload but with traffic here sometimes I don’t have time to make another load... if I’m hauling broken concrete which is what I’m doing most of the time I usually stay around 70-74000 because of the voids 

9 hours ago, Singlestackmack said:

Hey Mack technician! Thank you for the response! I’m looking foreword to seeing what you shared with me! 

What Mack technician did to that truck is the only real way to fix those motors without dumping a lot of money into the truck... got 2 AI motors that do the same thing, but selling one of them and the other we just deal with...

I love though how we can come on here type in our problem and guys from all over the place know exactly whts going on and have a possible remedy. But if we go to a Mack dealership we have to spend countless money , put the truck down for days and weeks and they make us think we’re crazy.

You came to the right place. These guys are great!

14 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

The dump truck is running about 30 hours a week hauling snow, garbage or biomass. The roll off is dedicated to 24/7 intermittent use so hard to average.

 

Yea I try to average my numbers using 8hours a day, 5 days a week. But we’re running  like 12 hours a day, 6 days a week

16 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

For what it's worth I can give you a couple break downs on our Kenworth cost centers

Both T440

One Roll-off, one tandem dump

Both Cummins ISL @ 345 horse

Both Allison 3000RDS

2011 Tandem Dump $7.78 per hour total maintenance

2010 Roll-off $11.74 per hour total maintenance

includes all outside/inside repairs and all parts including tires, internal and external labor, etc. Roll off has a hard life, clearly....one job is to deliver caustic ash.  Don't have enough fleet diversity to make a case...

Those numbers don’t seem too bad to me...I gotta look over my numbers and compare, but looks about same maybe a little lower. How many days/hours a week do those trucks work?

14 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

You said Peterbilt 388.....that's a highway truck chassis. You'd need a 367.

Hmm... everyone around here rounds them with double frames... After looking further into it I think they only do the gliders in a couple models. 388-389 and 5 something

47 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

Fitzgerald's website doesn't show a Peterbilt 300 series vocational model offering (e.g. 367)...................https://www.fitzgeraldgliderkits.com/peterbilt/

However they do offer the Kenworth T800...........https://www.fitzgeraldgliderkits.com/kenworth/kenworth-t800/

As well as the Western Star 4900SB.................https://www.fitzgeraldgliderkits.com/western-star/western-star-4900-sb/

I would buy as many Fitzgerald Series 60-powered T800s as you can afford, before the government brings their business to a halt. This is a truck....an engine.... that you can make a living with.

I’ve spoken to a salesman there numerous times they can do the Pete’s as well... there’s a bit of a wait on them but it’s doable. A guy I know in Iowa got a mixer mounted on one and he loves it. Says it’s a beast. 

I Wish I lived somewhere else so I can get them and not have to worry about emissions laws going into effect

21 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

Is Fitzgerald doing any vocational models? With the superior Series 60, that would be one good way to go.

You can get a Peterbilt 388 with a dump body on it or just the chassis and have it sent to whatever upfitter you want

1 minute ago, Bullheaded said:

You got that right Rob. We are just test pilots at our expense. Used to be a time you could pay your truck off and have a few years of profit. Now as soon as it's payed for you have to run out and replace it and back into payment.

 

But hey, we get to live the dream of being truckers! LOL.

7 minutes ago, Bullheaded said:

I am not a fan of this new emission crap, but they do seem to be improving little by little. But as much as the engine is an enemy in itself, the other bigger problem I experience is dealer techs that just don't know how to diagnose or fix them.

So many times I have had some emission system problem fixed, only to have another failure then find out it was because both components should have been changed at the same time.

And then stuff like I had the Detroit tech change a parameter in my ECM so that I can force a parked regen before the light comes on. That way I can do one after work every night instead of getting caught 3 hours into a shift. But then I go to dealer for a repair and all of a sudden that feature is gone?

Now since the last repair I don't get a parked regen warning light. It automatically goes to malfunction and check engine lights. It's like every dealer tech that works on it does something different to it.

 

On the next new one I was going to try going down to the DD13 now that it can be had with 1850 torque. The Detroit guy told me that should be better for my vocational application.

Were the test subjects for their r&d. And when there is a problem no one properly diagnoses the issue. They just throw parts at it on our expense and the root of the problem goes untouched

17 minutes ago, Maxidyne said:

Just want to throw this out for discussion- Would going to a smaller engine that is thus working harder reduce the number of parked regens?

I had a sterling with a small Mercedes motor in it. I can’t recall exactly how many liters but definately less than 11. It might have been 9 or 10. And that motor would not get hot for the life of it in the winter. I had a heat exchanger installed on it that I plunged to the heater core that would heat the water tank for the concrete mixer and even at the end of the day that tank wasn’t as hot as the one on our mp8. So I dont know if that theory holds water?

3 hours ago, 1965 said:

What about 1 of those Fitzgerald gliders 

I have had my eye on them for a few years now. I would absolutely love to get one but would be kinda pointless if I can’t run it in the city because it doesn’t have a dpf. 90% of our work is nyc

3 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

Idling is the very worst thing you can do to your after treatment system. 

I know... the dump trucks we don’t really idle but the concrete trucks are running 8-10 hrs a day. There’s no avoiding it