cxn613

Got lights and plug working on truck, thanks for the help. Next question is the truck has two headlights per side, the owner had taken one round light out per side and mounted snow plow lights. Now they want it returned back to original, question is do all four come on with high beam or do they use a one high and one low beam per side?

I have a 900 series turn signal switch which looking at a diagram i see were it says the one wire should go to brake switch. The wires were disconnected at brake switch and in bad shape, so i ran a new wire from brake switch back to harness going to rear of truck, question is can i just bug into that wire that gets hot when brake is pressed and run it to the wire it needs to go to on turn signal switch?

Thanks for replies. With further head scratching i believe whats going on is i have one wire coming from brake switch, so when i bug into that one wire to run to the left turn/brake stud and the right turn/brake stud, when you turn the signal on for either direction its lighting up both sides because its feeding through the one wire i split for the two studs. The flatbed has 3 center clearance lights in back and then two big clearance/turn/brake on each side in back. I thought about just making the outsides just clearance and turn and then the ones right beside them be clearance and brake, but it has 7 pin r/v trailer plug that would have to be wired accordingly. Or do i just need two brake switches at fire wall to run to left and right that way theres no crossing like i stated above.

trying to get some help, put a flatbed on an old Diamond Reo truck. Wired everything up using what was there and everything works but the turn signals when the brake lights are lit. When I power probe the stud for the right tail/brake the left lights up to. Same when i probe the left, the right lights up as well, but when i unhook the wires from the truck to those studs they work as they should when putting power to the stud for left/right turn/brake. So seems to me there is something from the truck pig tail back to the cab making both energize when power is put to one. What doesn't make sense is the signals work when turned on with the turn signal unit.

Got to drive the truck today with a load. I do believe it is in the engine. Pulling a hard grade with rpms up it seems fine, but cruising over a knoll or just interstate cruising the engine will flutter. Really notice it if the cruise is on and you hit your target speed and the engine backs off then when it starts to come back it will flutter and tach needle will bounce. Coming home empty it runs perfect. Did get rid of the "hope" in the ride fixed by using those centering pins to center the wheels and drums.

will the jake slaves still make a vibration even at a 1200-1400 rpm high idle? You can feel the vibration up through floor board when doing this but smooths out above 1600 rpm.

thanks for input. truck is doing a regen about once a week now compared to the once a month like it usually does, so may be onto something with the jake slaves. also the truck just has a slight choppyness while cruising down the road. almost like your on a light rumble strip all the time. truck runs in normal road conditions and not any off road use. has virgin bridgestone tires on. shocks all are new, cab mounts and engine mounts seem good.

ok thanks

2008 mp8 485 has around 475,000 on it, has vibration under load. Rpm's fluctuate when its acting up. This is not a consistent problem. Has the same feel as an injector being cut out but power is not effected when it does this. Truck has had all new cups and injectors and cam in the last 100,000 miles. Riding the jake down a hill seems to vibrate the worst.

Thanks for all the input, free travel adjustment is were it needs to be. What has me confused is it slips even when not using clutch to shift. Clutch does not slip under load either, only when shifting and its just a short spert of slipage until it grabs and all is fine

When shifting, once in gear there is minimal slipping or "nothing" there then all a sudden clutch locks and all is well. Doesn't matter if u shift with or without clutch, still does it. However this is not a mack but a ih with Spicer trans. I get a lot of good mack info here, so just hoping to get this question answered. Thanks

The top bolts keep working loose causing gear oil to leak out. Anybody else have this issue? Has happened before even after tightening. Haven't lock tighted them yet, any suggestions?

Had a 95 cl do kinda the same thing. It would cut out intermittently under load and ended up being a throttle pedel unit

Im liking the add on low pressure sensor and buzzer. I have also lost the beep that sounds when you cycle key switch on, which is the same beep that lets you know cruise is set, or when idle shutdown is about to happen etc. Is this same beep tied into the low air warning buzzer just different audible sounds?

was wondering if these two buzzers operate at the same location, but just have different audible sounds. Also is there any way to make sure the cluster is the problem? thanks

I found on mine that the green pressure switch wasnt screwed in all the way. Been fighting this problem of no cold air sitting still when engine is hot for a few years and all it is was the switch not screwed in all the way. Now fan will kick on sitting still when pressure gets high.

Doesnt help. With gauges on when high pressure side goes up to 250/300 it kicks compressor off but fan clutch doesnt engage.

a/c blows cold air while driving, but once sitting still blows warm air. the fan clutch never cycles while sitting still. fan clutch does work fine when it needs to cool the coolant down while driving

ok. thank you

truck quit counting both hours and miles. MPH and RPM work. This is a 2000 ch with the old style ch interior not the vision dash. Does this seem like a issue in dash circuit board or elsewhere? thanks

Did you replace ball and seat check valve that is in the davco?

I know there's been some talk of this before. When this happened today i was able to determine good air coming to actuator,but before i could hook volt meter to 3 wire plug at actuator module the light went out and all was fine. Hooked volt meter up anyway and found 5 volt on wire eje-26-0.5 which that wire goes to ecm but don't know which pin. So not sure if it's a wire issue or the actuator and module. Hoping to get it to acted up while volt meter hooked up. If it acts up and i don't loose the 5 volt does that mean bad actuator and module? Or should i see something else at the 3 wire plug?

Thanks for the help

Its a 2008. The black cover on module is cracked open

Getting code mid 128 ppid 270 fmi 5. Was wondering what wires should have current at the plug of module and if when module and sensor is replaced does any computerized resetting need done? Thanks