bobo

"There is 1 cross member about 16 inches in front of the crack. It is just behind where the mounting bracket is for the dump body ram. On the other side of the crack, going towards the back, there is a cross member about 2 1/2 feet behind crack."

No matter what you do, or how you go about fixing the problem. IF YOU DONT put cross members in the right spot over the lift, IT WILL CRACK AGAIN! doesnt matter if you replace the rails, fish plate, put inner rail and or weld. SO spend the money fix it right, spend more money to prevent it from happing again!

DONT PUT THE CARRAGE IN FRONT OF THE HORSE! THINK ABOUT WHAT MADE IT CRACK NOT JUST HOW TO FIX THE CRACK! BOBO

sorry not trying to beat a dead horse

When I pulled the tranny out of my RW, I did not have to remove the floor pan. My truck has a E9, I don't think the pan has to come out for the E6 either. The superliner cabs sit a lot higher on the frame.

Good to know! its got an E9 too! just double checking, like i said only ever pulled tranny out of RB's and the floor has to be removed to get at it! bobo

Was that from the Mack warehouse in Toronto, or Pai Bobo? I had the carpet all up in my Superliner a few weekends ago to change my fuel pedal and also so I could unbolt the treadle valve to change all the fittings on it. I replumbed the whole truck front to back got rid of all the steel braided air line and swaped it out for plastic. one more step closer towards finishing this project. I just need to win the dam lottery in the meantime. You would think those brass fittngs were gold ones when you're buying them. The bolts and screws all came out of the floor good and were able to be re used all but the 2 in the heel plate behind the fuel pedal, I had to drill the heads off to get it off and I need the 2 bolts and the 1 nut and clip to hold it in the floor. I wonder what the probability is I would be able to get them from the dealer in windsor? I might have to stop in London next weekend if I go down there to the Motorcycle show.

hey did ya get your computer issues worked out or still hitting the libary? Have you got a Lowes store in windsor or london? they have a great stainless nut/bolt dept. I get all my clips and most of the hardware there. The matts I got from Stoney creek Mack. I just redid my brake and fuel pedels, I put grease zerks on any of the pins i could, and a long zerk in the treadle housing, so I can lube the piston. I lined the whole cab and floor with Ice and water(roofing membrain) Any photos of your progress? Check lowes first before hitting 401! You still gotta goto K&R one of these days? bobo

YOU GUYS SUCK! IM TAKING MY BALL AND GOING HOME! DICKS! LOL heres a link i found check it out pretty cool 0bob

http://landtrain.net/

VERY GOOD! K500 is what it is! DAF cab is also correct, as for the engine they are Paccar(12.7) brand so not sure if it just rebadged DAF. bobo

any guesses?

We use "D" rings up here for running chains through for the securing of roll-off/lugger boxes on our trucks and trailers. roll-off boxes up here get loaded up to 26.5 tonn when put on 4 axle buggies. I've never had a ring break, bent a few if load shifted though! You say, you can weld(just joking), make sure the hold down is welded good and in the spots you will mostlikly use them, and go with the biggest "D" rings you can. One big "D" is better than two broken small ones 0bob

Little French style out of Oakville,Ontario Plant

The Mack red frames get my interest every time.

Year 1987

Manufacturer MACK

Model SUPERLINER RW713

Price $20,000

http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=2540241

They are demoing the Oakville plant as we speak! RIP bobo

bobo have you got your mat yet and if so how much money?

yea they had a few in the Toronto dist. center. i paid 290$CDN for both peices. bob0

Every time I pull a floor, I have to replace about 1/2 dozen captive fasteners!!

Rob

I only ended up breaking to bolts off, but changed all the clips and anti-seized the new bolt bobo

Thanks fjh I know all about the pain in the floor! boB0

Your opinions are much appreciated. Obviously your right about the best thing to do is replace the frame rails. Just wondering how long you think it would take 2 mechanically inclined guys to replace them. I heard the rails are only $1500 so no big deal. But my problem would be the down time. I guess I would have to someway support everything mounted to the rails and figure out a way to take the weight off that side of the dump body. I have so much money into this truck, I really dont want to get rid of it. And, yes, the pictures you saw are that of the cracks before it was welded.

I know that replacing the rails is the best way to go, but you dont think seriously beefing up the inner channel (fishplate) would work??? Just wondering. It really sucks where it is because everytime I engage that lift axle it is putting stress on that cracked area. I dont know what the previous owner did to crack both frames, he never would tell me after I found it. I am trying to go after him legally but probably wont get very far.

Replacing the rails will not solve the problem! you need a cross member on or slightly ahead and on or slightly behind where the lift axle hangers are. doesnt matter if its a steerable or not you need cross members! look at other truck and get back too me! the b0bo!

I ripped up the carpet in the superliner tonite, getting it ready to put factory rubber floor down. Having never done a clutch or tranny in a RW, it doesnt look like the floor needs to come up to get at the bell housing bolts, like it does in a RB? to me there is more than enough room to go from underneath or from engine bay? Ive only ever pulled trannys out of RB's, and they are a pain in the ass! SO... my question is, does the floor have to come up in a RW to pull the tranny? B0bo

The old owner probably didn't dump the air on the lift axle all the time when turning. The only way to fix it is replacing the rails. It will crack again along the welds.

Yes Midnite Im with you! IMHO when ever you have a hanger, whether its spring or air. THERE HAS TOBE A XMEMBER! or it will crack time and time again! put new rails on and it with crack again! I can remember when I work for Mack, we were replacining Xmember on RB's and RD's dump trucks all the time. Thats when the % peice Xmember came out. bobo

You got that right. Everytime I pull out with a load, EVERY TIME, I think of that crack.

hey the pictures in your profile, are they of the frame in question? with the welds and small rectangle on the top of lift axle mount? bobo

HAPPY BDAY OLD TIMER!

I noticed in the pics you dont have a rain cap/breather cover on the R, measure the dia. have a few different ones lieing around here in good shape you can have. bobo

It's a Marmon, built in the USA! Texas Not Mexico! the plant and name I think were bought by Navistar(IH),at one time Ford owned them. They were hand built and GREAT TRUCKS! the truck in question is 67/68 vintage? b0b0

OK OK... DONT tell the ole'Lady I said this but I was wrong!

It's a Marmon, built in the USA! Texas Not Mexico! the plant and name I think were bought by Navistar(IH),at one time Ford owned them. They were hand built and GREAT TRUCKS! the truck in question is 67/68 vintage? b0b0

Name: mack Rb688s (2001)

Date Added: 08 September 2008 - 05:56 PM

Owner: bobo

Short Description: None Provided

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I just put new carpet, dynamat, and a damper pad in my RS. you will laugh but I used a rubber backed doorway mat. just cut it to size and it looked stock. I traced it out of the old rubber mat so everthing lined up. Cost me about $60. I think it was a 5'x 5' mat. the RW im working on has carpet as well what I found odd was it had this 1/2 pad under it that was glued to the floor. think it was for vibration and sound control.

I like the dynamat product, but too expensive! I use a roofing material called "ice and water" get it at lowes or homodepot. Its easier to work with and Ive done 3 R cabs on 1 roll(78$) jB0bo

I ordered new black carpet for the RW today, but could only get the front piece in carpet? computer says thats the only way black came? but my blue carpet(old) was both front and back?! price was not bad 248$ they have a few sets sittng in the T.O. warehouse. bobo

For what it worth rob put one in. I was ready to pull my tranny out of the RB(!PAIN IN THE ASS!), when my parts guy says "change the isolater" so I took the boot off and guess what NO ISOLATER on the shaft! So I go back to the dealer and 1 is billed out on my acc. sittn on the counter waitn for me, as Randy comes around the corner he says "your RB wasnt built with one!" you m********ker! we have a love hate relationship! I did my apprenticeship there! b0b0

Let's say I wanted to replace a Fuller RTOF12513 with something a bit quieter in the O/D range.. What transmissions would be a "slip fit" not requiring any driveline work? I don't have anything picked out and have four of these transmissions, (two spares) and all are known good.

Rob

hey rob have you checked the shift tower isolater? If it doesn't have one or its wore out it makes an awfull racket only heard in OD cause you're in it the longest. they a very easy to install take tower out cut, and weld(or bolt) isolater in. ALL EASIER,FASTER and CHEAPER than a diffent tarnny! B0bo

I've used a lot of products by US Chemical over the years but mostly fiberglass repair items and their private branded masking paper. Never been dissapointed with their quality. I've found their stuff much better for the price than Evercoat which also are good products.

What kind of spray guns do you guys prefer up there? Sata is very popular here but I like my "off brand" Transtar branded guns. Just as good in quality and about 1/2 the cost.

The cab looks great, as does the rest of your progress.

Rob

hey most painters I know use sata or deVilbiss, we used deVl. gti620.