bobo

rochester charged me 86$ apiece for the stage two, I pull heavy (140 000) pyro temps get up to 1100 but drops just as quickly

if you look on the intake manifold you will see two plugs on the top, thats where you will get your boost reading from. I would check out summit performance for the gauge, thats where I bought mine(check out my pics)no ecm adj. need if you use mech. gauge which is the "real" reading anyway! check out north west, or rochester fuel for upgrades I been running big turbo and inj for over a year runs a little hot up hill with foot in it(but its a Rb so to be expected) good luck

do they not just pop off?

how would i go about taking the stock speakers out? i have no clue how to get the covers off. and are they 6.5" speakers?

A phillps(star) screw driver, there are four screws in the grills on the back of the cab, Its really not too hard to figure out!

have you noticed that your speedo dies for a split second or has a slight jump when this happens, check your positioin censor, front right of block, pear shaped with a single bolt going through it, when you find it sometimes hidden kinda behind wires, pull it out clean it and if it has 1 gasket on it add another gasket on top of old(2 gaskets) and reinstall. If it has 2 gaskets remove 1 and try it. I have done this to many E7 & etech. good luck

hey I too have the stage 2 inj. from rochester fuel as well as the bigger turbo from them. dont really notice any change in fuel econ.(cant be helped in a RB roll off, boxs catch to much wind)... but power wise world of difference!! I only get 34-35 psi boost(25psi with jake on), exhaust gets a bit hot on a long climb but cools right down quickly on the down. I had to get the plastic intake breather pipe off a CL and cut it down it fit turbo, and got a pipe made with proper angle for hot pipe to air to air. I feel I need a bit more air flow though, so I got an old oem (tip turbo) hood scoop, and will be adding a K&N 6" flang filter to the breather to turbo pipe! Its alot harder to do this stuff to a RB than a CH or CL...BUT real trucks rattle!! check out my garge pics I think I have turbo pics

check the return fuel pressure check valve it may be losing the prime, do you notice a change in the idle? is it surging? you will find it on right side of engine between 4th and 5ft eup. if it needs changing MAKE SURE you put the same vavle as stock, they come in 3 diff. pressures! and check the eup Orings in the block for leaking.

in ontario, you have to have a min. of three threads showing(past the nut) after the wheels are torqued

Check out www.jpchrome.com they have stainless ones there, I got 1 for my Rb last year

bobo

I know what ya mean...They wont let me in or out! lol

Well changed turbo and inj. today, rev'd much faster, jake stronger(22psi@ 1900) and felt like more power(no load), but when on test drive, was only gettn 28psi of boost again? so we checked air to air AND wouldnt you know it IT HAS A HOLE IN IT!! get a new air cooler, install it, AND would you know it.. AC condensor now leaks!! spend spend spend...that what the wife says its only money YEA RIGHT!

hey any parts jobber will sell the gauges you need. I changed over all my gauges to stewart warner, they were 50-75$ at summet racing.

very nice!

I know I'd be crazy to remove the air to air! I was thinking to use it in conjunction with air to air, have it enter before the turbo, kind like a DD blower? like I say just thinking out loud

I have the turbo kit and stage two injectors from Rochester fuel. tried to install it on the RB, but quickly found out the my air intake piping would not work with the turbo. the supplied elbo was for a CH/CL. but hunted the proper stuff down to make it fit, JUST HAVENT HAD THE TIME TO INSTALL! LOL holidays are comming soon gonna do it then. I will be damn sure to tell you if it works or not!!

I hear what you guys are saying and agree! I didnt explain enough. I know it would be a real brain teaser trying to make it fit, but for that constant boost pressure would be an added bonus to build a performance E7. To hot hod it so to speak? I have a RB and CL both etech 460 and legaly gross out at 140,000#(ont) pulling a 4 axle buggy and would love a little or alot more power to do it! I was just thinking out loud LOL

hey guys, i currently run 12r24 tires with 6 spoke hubs on the front axle of my mack and am wondering what all would be involved in swapping them to 22.5 6 spoke hubs to run a wider super single or flotation tire. the current height is 48 inches tall, and i want to stay at that height if possible. will the brakes be too large to fit the 22.5 hub and would it bolt up?? any help will be greatly appreciated.

hey, the brakes will be the same no matter what size wheel you run, unless you have roto chambers? what you need to find out is the inner bearing set number, and cross reference it over to the smaller hub. any parts jobber can do this for you. why stay with the spokes? why not change over to a hub pilot? the hub pilot will most likely be cheaper to buy. tire size you might want to run would be 385, 425, or 445, But they are not cheap!! Ive done a number of hub/wheel change over ask away!

hey Any one ever try or think of trying to fit a tip turbo set up to an E7?

They are called "ram air moisture eliminator" made by donaldson, any 1 that sells donaldson can order them they come in all different sizes on the breather end. The way they are made it wisks the water out of the air and out the back of the scoop. I have 1 on my R and the filter stay twice as clean, because the intake air is that much higher and cooler as well as the added bonus of the ram air effect. AND they look cool!!