Mack Technician

This cannot be a mistake..... has to be prophetic and prospective? Packers takes the ring this season and that sucker sells like....                                           

HOT CAKES!!!

Mack never built for inter-OEM space diversity in the CH. Even the CL created some stuffing issues(ex: pulling range shift cylinder on back of 18 spd with a ISX).

1999 was a nice vintage for E-tech, IMO, I'd hold on tight.

Send pics if you do get it in!

I've been having a fuel dilution issue on an engine. Liehberr Dealership Tech came up for a warranty diagnostic and high pressure fuel pump replacement. Guy was dabbing oil on white paper to find the "fuel halo". I grabbed an oil drop from a known good engine oil sample kit......same paper........no halo. I figure by the sample curve this drop has about 5%-7% dilution. Takes about 15 seconds to appear.  

Have you left 15PSI on it for a good sit-n-wait? No gray paint burn offs, no pink crust anywhere? Engine fans are great for diffusing coolant drops, forward facing side of any filter missing it's cheap paint job?

On ‎8‎/‎5‎/‎2017 at 5:05 PM, 1958 F.W.D. said:

Welcome to Commiefornia

Bought a tub of rodent bait pellets the other day. At the bottom of the warnings there is a list of seven varieties of mice and rats that you can't legally kill in California.............. Really????

You should have had a white, monkey funk, slime festival inside your motor particularity under valve covers, in breather tube and coalescing mesh. That's a lot of coolant. Grab an oil sample and send it in to be sure the moisture drops are coolant and not natural aspiration moisture.  If you saw nothing in motor I would starting hunting for other outlets. There are a couple worm clamps on an AC motor you can't see or tighten. You have to dig to get on them. Egr cooler? FJH has a good point about maintaining psi during an internal insection. Sounds like you know your machine ( bearing roll). Good luck and good returns!!!

Include Wisconsin in that salt free truck fist fight. politics and common sense would make strange bed fellows. 

The long awaited exhaust quote for upgraded 5" has arrived from Rock!!!!!!!!!!!

The custom Grand Rock, CV713, single run, exhaust part numbers are as follows:

• MK-41112M2-5, 5" 2-BEND W/BELL FLARE & PYRO; ALZ  (front pipe)
• MK-5110A-5, 5" 4-BEND W/LIST & WELDS OD/OD; ALZ    (rear pipe)

My Mack Dealership prices, w/mark-up, are as follows:

• $206.99 front pipe
• $221.03 rear pipe

Despite a couple requests they did not send a part number for the 5"-in/5"-out stack muffler so I'm going to go after that manually. No pre-cut 5" flex pipe included, so we will be cutting from bulk. We could use the listed dimensions from the Rock's standard 4", but I'm more comfortable cutting it ourselves since my remounts may adjust that length dimension. We are pleasantly surprised at the very reasonable price. When the parts get here I will attach pics.

We advanced all our mechanicals 2 degrees over spec to clean up the cold run and assist starting ( Wisconsin). No bad returns. 

Mechanics are telling me they are virtually unserviceable, referring to internal repairs or on-site overhaul.  

We also worked to get rid of all non-Armoloy pins whenever we invaded a valve cover. Trained up to flip and check. I recall them having a frosted, non-reflective silver coat.

It's easy to flap jaw when I'm not the one working on your engine, but our group never condemned a single head for a break off.

On 8/4/2017 at 5:54 AM, dcrow said:

Any updates on how this truck is doing fuel/power wise? Also a thought with the cam, can a machine shop grind and polish down the extra bump to eliminate the egr? I realize it's still labor intensive but maybe save a little on the cam purchase. 

I am getting together with the owner to do an audio file interview I will upload. If I had a dyno we would hit you with numbers, but we only have interpretation.

Sounds like a fine idea. It would be a minimal cut. I've never seen a camshaft under cut on a Mack, but I wouldn't hesitate to try it on someone else's truck. Barry Cam Service in Minnesota built a customer roller cam for the engine in my Cougar, so I'd try them first. 

Mack doesn't like folks cutting engine metal, predictably. My dealership was told not to install any crankshaft that was cut outside of Mack reman. Any squareness at a journal transition ends was expected to break. Considering the torque they drive out of a 12 liter crank I'd consider it good advice.

6 minutes ago, fjh said:

Also you may have entered a Vicious  circle here  if this failure has again taken out  yet another lifter  or fractured it to fail a month or two from after were up and running again! Catch 22! in both cases! The Question posed by Mack Tech is only a weak at best argument !How were they to see a fractured yoke pin would you have been willing to replace a head that MAY or May not be compromised ? Like Kevin said I feel your pain Hopefully They will come to the party for sum of it anyway! 

They wouldn't have seen a fractured pin, you can't diagnose it particularly since it broke sub-deck. The bridge would have been set uneven causing the break after last adjustment. Metal, like a leaf spring, will bend indefinitely and without a predicted service life till ~pop~. A well adjusted bridge won't side load a centering pin. Center pins typically die as the result of outside influence. Good Luck EZ rider. 

If it is the 2000, they are talking about breaking the centering stud for the yoke bridge. They set the bridge adjustment wrong during the cam repair or it was fatigued by the cam failure and now just gave up the ghost or it's just plain worn out from 17 years of hard labor. Mack has a procedure for removing those. It was an issue. Find out what cylinder had the cam failure vs what cylinder lost the centering stud. You need to know that fact if the hair starts flying. If the cam failure did not occur on the same cylinder that lost the stud you have a point to make. 

I once had a dash "smoke out" on a truck that was pulsing the thermal reset fuse. The guy had been driving it that way for days (weeks?), eventually the fuse will fail closed and WHOOF. Burned the harness from the turn signal switch to the main power in about five seconds. Glad I was driving around the lot not on the road, rubber insulation smoke is tear gas. Fuse turned a defining color.    

1 hour ago, Dag061583 said:

Thank you for the advice and schematic. When testing I found one leg in the tilt Ray circuit to pulse between + and -. Is that normal. The switch seems to be functional. I can jump the relay and the hi beams come on. But not with the switch. I've swapped the relays and still no Good.

 

Pulse is not normal. It's not logical enough to be switching it's own polarity. You must have a thermal auto-reset fuse opening and closing relative to it's own temp. Follow the circuit backwards to the cause of short.

 This is your vintage. Enjoy!

Tilt ray is your relay for headlight dim. Go to the tilt ray relay spade 86 & 85 for answers. Test 3-E-0.8 for ground and 3-B 1.0 for power. Manipulate them with switches and then you establish if it is a switch issue.

schem1.pdf

schem.pdf

Simplicity is dead nidfd112. Two 2006 Mack 12Ltr pictured. Neither one was without issues, but man, what a mess of support systems on the AC. If I was vocational farm cash cropping, day trips, I'd grab an AI.

I'd try Mackpro, he may know about the running miss.

Experienced it on our Elkaholics Unanimous bus...... 6.6 liter Brazilian Ford mechanical diesel. At deceleration the governor racked fuel to zero. I put a chrome straight pipe pointing out the passenger side 1/2 way down the chassis. Engine was in perfect tune, had it running like a top for Montana Elk trip. We were rolling through the Beartooth Pass, went into zero fuel and engine over speed downhill for minutes, powered into pedal and had 10' fire bursts shooting out the exhaust hitting dry pine overhangs. Had to change our game plan, started teasing easy into the pedal to get pistons hot again before throttling, fireballs stopped.  

I never saw that in an ASET AC engine, '06. Never saw electronic engines go cold either, they have logic. I'd be tempted to put injectors in it. Unseated tip bleed up? CCRS are a real hag about air. How many hours on the injectors?

Check for boost leaks for high exhaust.

Just now, Mack Technician said:

I guess it was the first ETECH's , later they came out with a download and we were told to remove the resistor. SL210013

Pub Type: Letter

Group Code: 210

Number: SL210013

Former Number:

Date: 10/23/1998

Model: E-TECH™ ENGINE

Title: ENGINE MISFIRE — E-TECH™ ENGINE

Engine Misfire — E-Tech™ Engine

In certain vehicle applications and operating environments, a temporary engine misfire with accompanying white smoke may be experienced on some E-Tech™ engines. This condition will generally be noticed when the engine is idling with the coolant temperature in the normal operating range, and little or no cooling air flow across the charge air cooler. It may also be noticed when a loaded vehicle accelerates after a momentary stop (such as stopping for a traffic signal, toll booth, etc.).

To eliminate this condition, an engine ECU service data file has been developed by Mack Trucks, Inc. To receive the appropriate data file, a request must be made to the District Service Manager serving your location. Other means of correcting this misfire condition, such as installing a resistor, must not be used. Additionally, any trucks which have had a resistor installed, must have the resistor removed, and the engine ECU must be reprogrammed with the proper service data file.

To summarize, the following procedures must be used to correct an engine misfire as described above:

Contact your DSM and request to have the engine ECU data file activated.

Use MackNet to download the engine ECU service data file from the MACK Mainframe.

Program the engine ECU with the new service data file.

Upload the verification file to the MACK Mainframe.

Remove the resistor if one had been previously installed

Archive from Mackpro. They programmed the issue out, time to go get your ECM flashed?

Need to install a 1K ohm resistor in-line with wire for intake air temp sensor. It will correct the smoke/stumble fueling issue. Use solder. Radio shack will set you up.

On ‎7‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 0:11 AM, turckster said:

If the governor is plumbed correctly the unloader valve may be stuck in the air compressor head or the wet tank/signal line could be plugged. 

The air governor has 3 ports-unloader, exhaust and reservoir. The reservoir port goes to the wet tank, the unloader goes to the air compressor unloader and the air dryer purge port, exhaust is open. The air governor gets its signal from the wet tank. Once the pressure in the wet tank reaches 125-130 psi the air gov.  sends an air signal to the air compressor unloader and dryer purge port. Once the air pressure drops a certain point in the wet tank, the air gov. dumps the unloader signal and allows the air compressor to build air pressure. 

When I am diagnosing purge issues i install a gauge into the unloader port and a gauge into the reservoir port on the air governor, that way you can see what the air pressure is in the wet tank and what the air gov. unloader pressure is (should be same as system pressure). If everything looks ok, make sure the air lines to the air compressor and purge valve are not plugged and will hold pressure. If all looks ok there as well then the issue most likely is the air compressor unloader valve being stuck. 

I was performing this diagnostic last month for a truck that would pop the air dryer purge open and continue to chatter compressed air out of the bottom of air dryer purge valve. The new air governor was only letting about 30 PSI into the unloading circuit. It was enough to open the air dryer purge, but not unload the sprung unloader stems in the compressor head. Warrantied reman air governor and bought a new instead of reman, problem fixed. New part fails are hard to diagnose, it throws a tough variable and makes you second guess yourself.

I put a gauge in the wet tank too. Pop out the safety valve and an 1/8" pipe nipple gauge slides right in.

I put the bowls under storage items out of direct rain and away from house/buildings. Under camper, pickup, all the things mice love to destroy. One weatherproof bait station in the woodpile. I move the fight to them. Last week, window open, I heard a blood curdling midnight death squeal 😵. Wife was running around the house thinking it was our kids. Found a stiff coon in the morning. Those things can't give up the ghost without waking the entire country mile. 

Nice shot. Often wonder what the shot spread is at twelve feet. I put out a couple dog bowls of rat poison all summer, open to the public.