Mack Technician

I did the whole bulletin, added the extra ground wire and still ended up replacing the cluster. Found a guy on Ebay with a new cluster, in the box, that passed the production number "test". You have to have them send you a picture of the production number on the "NEW" cluster so you don't end up with a reject outdate. Hopefully Mack threw out the old productions, or they died of natural causes, but there are still some floating around out there, I'm certain.

Attached is a guide for finding a pre-AI, CCRS, replacement camshaft.  We contemplated installing a 454GC5234A (PAI #891913) camshaft. Even though we are not done (exhaust work, tuner?, etc.) my buddy is certain he will not replace the cam unless it should die of natural causes, per level of satisfaction. As mentioned in the earlier post a PAI crossover was $1,980 for just camshaft.

Camshaft Cross-Over Bulletin.pdf

On 7/14/2017 at 11:00 AM, Bigjohn4300 said:

Thanks for the CCRS schooling! Has any issues been noted when using a non-AI exhaust manifold without the 460-high heat center section on a motor with tune, injectors and turbo?

Looks like you have a choice to repower to 375 HP with software and injectors or flash your current 300 HP to get rid of dead spots. 

The Allison makes you hesitate a bit about rolling the dice and installing over-size injectors, 5" exhaust, bigger turbo, bigger manifold and a smoke dial. Hate to see that short n' sweet little dumper sitting over a pool of oil.   

CCRS.pdf

To the best of my knowledge it does. The only thing to consider is wheel well skirting. A 20,000 Lb front axle adds the wheel well shirts to defect rocks and a 12,000 lb front axle means no skirts on hood.

12 hours ago, TeamsterGrrrl said:

That 2008 with an AI427 may have been for export. Or they could have legally used a left over E7 by balancing it's emissions with credits from cleaner engines. Using old engines for export to markets with weak emissions is common- Had an ex-International and current Cummins engineer help me install a new exhaust system on my old TDI a couple weeks back, they both had stories of new old stock engines that didn't meet current emissions requirements here being put in trucks exported to countries with weak standards or installed in military trucks which are exempt.

Stands to reason. We have a complete (OEM) emission cancellation retrofit kit, hardware & software, that can be purchased and installed in our Volvo L180H to convert our 13 Liter for sale over seas. Our company has to show destination of foreign purchase, ship information, misc proofs, etc before it can be purchased.  

Could you please let me know if it works? I hate Hitchcock endings. 

On 7/14/2017 at 9:48 PM, TeamsterGrrrl said:

Nice truck, but the price is way high. And a "pre-emissions" 2007 E7? I've been hearing  that claim a lot lately, They actually switched over to the MP engines late in 2006 so I doubt many if any pre-2007 emissions E7s were built.

 

Here are some 2007 AI equipped trucks to chassis check. Note first  year digit. 7M054982 , 7M006892 , 7M005998. Now get ready for a mind blower....2008 CT713 with AI427 engine-ZM006700. I may check this one, pic looks totally legit.

23 hours ago, Deere Mack said:

Are you saying the AI400, AI427 and AI460 have no EGR?

They have a more manageable, reliable, easily manipulated(or eliminated), EGR with no external moving parts.

12 hours ago, Bigjohn4300 said:

Mackpro, my last 6 is 010433 on a 04 cv713, and thanks a million ahead of time!

MackTechnician, im going to try to get a rock 5 inch exhaust with a pyro port, can i consider 900 degrees a safety point not  to exceed??

 

Another .....Me or my parts guy are calling or emailing Josh at Rock every seven days. In his defense I believe he is a busy guy, but our exhaust is in rough shape. Please feel free to use the Rock contact info at the beginning of this post to kindly let him know your also in need of a 5" system and a back log is growing. CV Cyber-convoy's rollin!!

Pyro on our CV red lines at 1,200.         Might make staying below four digits a goal? 5 minutes stabilize time before shutdown. NELM  may have better input since he's dealing with high ex. 

18 hours ago, Jbush_51 said:

I don't mean to sound dumb but what exactly do you mean by snubbing?

Not dumb, your just not from the land of Youbetcha.

Dying, shutting off, particularly at an idle.

I had one customer, with V-Mac II rack travel issues, who juiced his tanks with lubricating oil and said it cleared. A year later I had the pump replacement quote open but he was still running fine?

If the hose down works you will need a pump repair. Be real specific about how you found the issue by cooling the pump controller.

Bigjohn4300, here's your thumb for the tip of the week.....

104GC5165M (or 21090730) High Temp Center = $179.98 from Mack / $169.45 from PAI. Fairly cheap insurance if your going fight a battle with exhaust temps(at any HP rating). 

My PAI dealer is usually 30% cheaper. Sherry said this part is a Mack OEM re-bagged to PAI. She offered to go down in the price, but I asked not to since I was window shopping and we need to save our "favor chips" for big battles.  

On 7/13/2017 at 10:00 PM, Bigjohn4300 said:

Thanks for the CCRS schooling! Has any issues been noted when using a non-AI exhaust manifold without the 460-high heat center section on a motor with tune, injectors and turbo? And I caught something rereading the whole post this time, I've been having an intermittent low power issue where I get low boost, low power, then suddenly, like a switch is flipped, engine pitch changes, turbo spools and the missing power is back, like what was being described as pinched fuel line in the post, sounds like a software update may be needed

A. I have another brief theory of operation CCRS for you I have not added, but will.

B. I attached the S.Bulletin so folks know what your talking about. My swap is not a high temp center, it is off a 2002 427 CCRS engine, but we have not broke over 900 degrees pyro. If our manifold cracks we will buy a hot application center section. AI drops combustion temps to lower NOx and I suspect as we manipulate back pressure (Me), manipulate fuel delivery & turbo (mackncheese & Nelm) or change over to a pre-AI CCRS camshaft we will have an answer if stock manifolds hold up.   

C. Let Mackpro save you some $$$ and time. Great to have a guy who still has an active log-in.

High Temp Manifold.pdf

5 hours ago, Jbush_51 said:

The engine is the only thing that shuts off .  And when you cycle the switch it'll fire back up.  I changed the solenoid on the firewall and it didn't help.  I've went through and replaced all of the breakers in the fuse box thinking maybe that I have a bad breaker and that hasn't helped either.  I've wondered if it could be a ground issue but with it firing back up with the cycling of the switch makes me think otherwise.  It's getting now when it does shut off it does it about every 10 seconds.  Truck sits over night and does fine for the first hour of running and then it starts acting up.  

Your rack controller in the pump is shot. Get engine hot till it begins to snub. Pop the hood and spray the pump controller with cold water from a garden hose. Note if snubbing stops. This is what we use to do at the dealership.

On 7/12/2017 at 6:47 PM, duke said:

Thank You all !!! . was hoping  for a few words of encouragement ,Wade 

Salute Duke! Get 100 gallons of ATF(hydro if on-road), add it to 2,000 gallons of low sulfur diesel fuel, buy your favorite vintage of pre-2007 tri-axle Mack and HAVE SOME FUN!!!

Sounds like a fine idea, however........

When you locate the truck you like pick ten components you know you will need to replaced someday... air valves, suspension, radiator, turbo, etc. Go to the internet, or your dealer, and see if you can buy them new or used and for what price. If you can't buy parts move up 5 years to your second favorite vintage and repeat. If you work it, not show it, you can't rely on patchwork, you need reasonable parts availability.  Recently our light equipment side of the company fleet got "slapped" by Sterling.  

PS- I told them to buy Mack

Does the engine shut off while the chassis remains powered or is everything dropping out simultaneously?

1 hour ago, Mackpro said:

I'd like to see more pics of your cam tool. We use the shoe and man handel it in. Back in 2000 through 2002 I was doing 3 ETECH cam jobs a week for weeks at a time , only to redo some as new updated parts came out. Wish I had that energy now! 

Three sticks sounds like a loooooooooong week......

Sorry man, it would not work on the E7 build since you have a sweat fit cam gear and no bolts. If I'm recalling back accurately the MP7,8,10 and Volvo D13E are top-loaded camshafts, capped, for overhead removal? 

It really was fun and easy to install with this thing. I wanted to pull it back out and put it in again but it seemed wreckless. As I get older I can lengthen the beam .  

There is an option "X" that we are not going to try on this truck right now. If we are not completely satisfied I'm going to present the option to my buddy.

When I left the Mack Dealership for heavy off-road wood hauling equip in 2010 it was a decade reset in tiers. Liehberr has used Bosch E. Unit Pumps till 2014. All with cam bumps similar to Mack minus all engine brake options. All with low hole torque issues. Governing is logical on the machines and keeps the RPM at a constant through priority logic to the variable pumps.  The only real issue is Wisconsin weather. In -0 winter weather the pump groups require good low RPM torque at start up to spin through the synthetic maple syrup moving through pumps.

The lead mechanic at American State Equipment prompted me to Flash everything with updated cold weather start software and de-tune the exhaust valves. They have a new wider spec for exhaust valve set that will lash gap to zero at the top of the exhaust bump, stopping the intake exhaust scavenge. The engine does not have spring loaded exhaust push tubes, but also has no exhaust brake cut and has a relatively little bump. According to Am State de-tunes have caused no engine damage to date. I never de-tuned our machines, but I have contemplated the Loggin Dog.

If I de-tune the AI460, we will do it with the engine hot and lash the exhaust to -0-" or maybe 0.002" at top center of bump. I'd be able to cool the engine and establish a new wider standard setting by checking gap at normal rotation set point and also decide if we are getting too close to end of spring loaded push tube stroke.

Missing my Mack camshaft removal shoe...... Had to build our "Swiss magic zero-gravity wand" since the Germans are certain their cams never fail and there is no call for specialty tools.

Hop damage to roller. Full Flintstone at axle.

When you have your manifold pulled it is a good idea to check the condition of your EUP’s(and reseal them). If you have a broken spring on an EUP your on the way to a Camshaft replacement. A single break will keep you in contact with the camshaft and the engine will run fine, but when the second spring break arrives your camshaft will be hash. The good news is you could install a Pre-AI CCRS camshaft and be rid of the bump.

As the EUP spring parts pile up in the cup they also start to eat the EUP engine bore by hanging the spring over the side of the follower.

I pulled, inspected and resealed a few of ours, but stopped when I ran into some wire screws that were certainly going to snap off. Road Salt country!

This is a double EUP break I pulled out of a Swedish built 2011 Liehberr D936 last May. It took out the follower, camshaft and damaged the block (not a block fatality though). It lost the cylinder and started a  metallic hammer at point of roller unloading from the Cam. 15,000 hours on engine. Two of the EUP's had spring breaks.  

On ‎6‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 10:50 PM, nelm1994 said:

Check out a post from   mackncheese   Nov 2015  he's got a Granite with an ai 460 . He had  Antrim change the turbo, bigger injectors and area diesel tuner. Antrim dynode it before and after. I think it was 490 hp to the ground after mods. I tried to copy the post and repost it here but couldn't get it to work.

Mack Module.pdf

I did a paste over of the Mackncheese post you mentioned, nice find Nelm......... 

Finally got my new to me Mack dump on the road after having Antrim spice it up. Thought some you fellow rednecks would be interested in what was done and the outcome. Bought an 05 granite with a 460 and an 18sp with 4.35 rears. Felt sluggish when I drove it to Antrim. They dynoed it before modifications and it made 278 hp at the rear wheels. Ended up three of the unit pump (???) injectors were bad. Put in some modified injectors, Detroit series 60 turbo, and area diesel module and it made 467 hp at the rear wheels, 497 with fan off. It now pulls good and is fun to drive. Need to keep an eye on the pyro temps. Makes consistent 34 lbs of boost in upper gears, even empty. Now I don't want to drive my 99 RD with 400 hp and dreaded 7 speed. Also truck has inter axle lock and it has already got me out of 1 jamb that my RD with power divider would have gotten stuck with. Antrim is slow but they are honest and deliver what they say.

Cavalry is here son, we can get it to you before the sun sets on Houston!!! 

I have that manual on PDF, but it is too big to put on this posting. Send your E-mail to me on a PM and I will ship it to you.

PS - PM=Private message.

Waiting on the exhaust folks to get back to us bro. Search "AI 460" and I should come up. Not so much a technical issue as a "don't know what I'm doing" issue.

On 6/23/2017 at 3:16 AM, JAMKAR said:

Thanks KS, I was looking for the current thread from Mack Technician, seems he had some 'technical issues'. Thanks again. 

On 7/7/2017 at 7:11 AM, TimberJack said:

Ok I will check it out. The AC motor has been nothing but trouble since day one. So I figured what the hell the E7 only has 49,000 miles on rebuild and was a good running truck. Gone to pull both in the shop side by side and start disassemble. 

Our first AC sold went up to the upper pinninsula (da yupper) and burst into a ball of fire. Guy said " by da time I got odda'da truck, flames were lick'in me". The rest were melting all the plastic accessories under the hood. Split loom was turning into black dripping goo. Mack corp sent boxes of hood vents and told us to start punching cooling ports. Good performer, bad concept.     Good luck!!!

High five to our brothers in the land of red dust and the earth's largest road trains.

Change the oil and run it. If your feeling uneasy leave the new filters on and dump the oil for a new batch after couple hours. Everything below the head deck is gravity to sump. Your motor oil is a detergent. I would only put diesel or ATF in a pan if I was washing the internal for a complete overhaul, even then I would hesitate unless the blow-by had turned it into a complete carbon sludge dump. Watch your breather tube, if you have excessive moisture you will see white condensate funk forming or buy a mack oil sample kit for $35 to do a follow up.