Mack Technician

2 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

That maybe true up in the mountains but not around here.

Of course bringing back a vehicle from a low moisture environment to rain and snow, salt is just going to expose it all. There are stone chips, dents, cracked paint, no paint that are no big deal here but back in the rain and snow belt is a death warrant. 

Sorry, I understood after reading your first question. There is nowhere to get a car that is NOT going to rust or corrode, in the case with aluminum, in 4-5 years in the environment you live.  That is even with a new one. Corvette maybe for upper body preservation or move to a different climate to increase overall car life expectancy.

Yes, but you definitely enjoy a grace period before the rust goes big, especially (if it isn’t completely skinned) with some minor touch up. You can treat the undercarriage with rope lube and grease the lines. Beyond lots of wax the top side is going to burn no matter what. 

Some of the best looking native cars around here were the old Saturn SL1 and SL2. 

You guys never see snow down low? My wife’s sister lives in Whiteriver and it seems like they got hit a lot, but around 5K ft?

Guy from New Mexico told me to stay away from vehicles driven in the southwest. He explained the DOT uses crushed pumice on the roads when they do get ice or snow in high regions. Said if you bring it back to the salt belt to paint and restore, fine...… If you bring it back to the salt belt to drive it will be a rusty ball of butterfinger flake in short order because of all the small cuts and nicks from the coarse pumice.    

With exposure in mind...….If you were going to purchase a Truck/Car from any of the lower 48, which state would it be and why?

The last four I purchased out of state since we are salt heavy around here. Iowa, Michigan, Washington and Missouri. I get about 5 extra years out of the upper body once they hit salt. Been seeing that non-salt states have some shortcomings too...…. Southwest paint blisters...…..Florida sweat rust and mold...… etc. So far I think upper Northwest may be the ticket.  

On 6/14/2019 at 5:11 AM, JoeH said:

Engine codes. Make sure the lightning bolt comes on with the key and goes out promptly.  There's a write up on here to turn that motor into a really good engine, it's currently set up with exhaust restriction to force it to return some of its exhaust.  

Watch for double frame rust jacking, cracks in the frame, etc. Replacing frame rails is 25-30k. Unless you can do it yourself, then you'll be looking closer to 15k for the rails.

It's debatable if you should waste your typing on a new user with no content. 4 out of 5 never open their account again after an initial question as is the case with our man Speedy.....

If they had a majority vote to inject the union they would likely still not seed it well due to the “Right to Work” legislation. It would take a nearly unanimous vote. The union still has to provide certain services to people who have refused payment and include them in collective bargaining even though they are not paying members. The no-voters would starve the union. The Right to Work here has not been a union buster, it’s more of a union stunter. 

0.016 MPG

We’ve accomplished some pretty miserable trunnion removals. Dealership only installed OEM.

If your willing to remove some members(or a pusher), pop one side lose on every member up to transmission, and manipulate the trunnion toward chassis center, and you have enough hydraulics, you’ll pop that sucker out with pintle plate and hinge in place.

www.diaglebrothers.com vends a member our dealership designed in conjunction with their fabricators. It’s a member that anchors the inner tower to the outside and inside of the frame rail with two additional flanges. Once installed you can’t lose a trunnion unless you find a way to shear a tube. Made for Quads and Michigan trains.  

Stellar toy box!

mmm  MMM  mmmm   Those Canadian water ways and the Walleye that grace them!

Your buying into the last generation of Mack engines. Good engine if properly adjusted and slightly modified. 6 years of post-factory R & D to eliminate a lot of the base engine issues and cam problems, so a well developed engine. The emissions system is 100% internal, so no plugged EGR coolers and stuck EGR valves to constantly nurse back to health.  A good truck to be the "end of life user" of since the engine is still somewhat simple.

When friends ask me to go check on one I take an oil draw pump and coolant SCA strips. I draw an oil sample with a drop tube and check the Coolant Nitrites. If either test fails, no buy. Check for white foam around the engine breather (coolant leaking internal). Check for cracks in the frame X-members. Check for signs of oil leakage/paste (cracks) from under the rear spring seats (if its not a camelback). Bring wrenches to check for milk oil in trans and rears. Make sure rear diffs have breathers in them and not busted off water funnels. Check for 11 and 7 o'clock leakage where the diff body bolts into the axle banjo(if mack diff).  There's a lot of topics on this website if you search CV713.

Best case scenario....owned by fleet or previously some lease program. Worse case scenario...owned by farm operation or salvage yard. Sorry to farmers.   

Click on....

“If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went.” – Will Rogers

"Dogs’ lives are too short. Their only fault, really.” – Agnes Sligh Turnbull

“The dog is a gentleman; I hope to go to his heaven not man’s.” – Mark Twain

14 hours ago, 1965 said:

Probably little hard on drive train, doing that bucking

Keeps torsion springs of clutch center plate in constant motion. Clutch life is usually determined by the spring life. 

17 hours ago, dickey said:

can  anyone help with fault codes for 94 mack e7 400

Whatcha got?

Google "Mack SB313005"

9 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Yeah Excel told me no Mack 65,000 dual reduction rears on Camel Back and no Maxi Torgue  so I asked why is it in the brochure and web site? " That doesn't mean it's available" HUH?

Same business with the "Vision Programmable Dash". Mack made the claim you would be able to position your gauge cluster in any configuration and program the cluster accordingly. So any same size gauge could be placed in any like-sized hole on the panel. They never followed through...…….or maybe...… it's the stuff of urban legends dreamed up by factory trainers (who told me) and/or the sales staff.

25,000 hours on the injectors!!!! Man I still love Renault’s PLN... 

Your not lacking anything on your analytics. Everything you’ve said so far, down to cylinder closest to return being affected by combustion air intrusion makes perfect sense. Be sure you put a closer on this thread. 

Don’t give much thought to injector cups on your engine. God bless it, you got a good engine Volvo didn’t screw up. 

Think leaking copper fire ring @ nozzle tip.

Don’t have the pressure spec for that engines fuel lift, someone does, sounds about right, at low end of good spec, to me off the top of my head. 

In the old days they bridged each injector for internal spill fuel returning to tank. Now you just have that one circuit plus a head crossover tube. Those little tubes have a tendency (actually are notorious for) to leak and let fuel drain away from the pump back to tank and lose prime. Cracked stand pipe in the tank is also a possibility for air leak under suction. Fuel is swaying in the tank all day, against the stand pipe, trying to flex it. Time can take a toll.

If your maintaining 20 psi at the pump rail your lift is providing enough volume of fuel.

if you have a system pushing air through you will want to also consider replacing all fuel lines before the transfer lift pump. After pump they leak fuel with a hole in line, before transfer they suck air into system with a hole in line... and drain back causing hard start. 

Be cautious about using certain hyd lines as fuel line replacements. Hyd psi lines are not engineered to experience suction, suction lines are. It’s surprisingly easy to pull the inner liner of a hyd psi line into a drawn-collapse due to engineering. 

There are guys on here picking up government surplus AI Mack engines (new) for dirt. I just found 2 on a surplus auction for June 17 starting at $5 (no idea what the reserve is?). If I had an engine sourced i’d low ball him. When your looking for a gray engine Mack, to buy, carry dip strips in your pocket and check the coolant SCA. If it’s low on cavitation protection consider the engine a liability for sleeve coolant leakage and counterbore cavitation pit damage. Not a Mack fault, folks just need to maintain SCA Nitrite protection and there is no risk to the block. Higher the HP the higher the cavitation risk. 

I’d stop so as not to release any more hard metals than you have so far since the synchro is a rear case only repair and not a bearing kit job. Metal will attract to magnets, but it’s still going to roll itself around in places you don’t want it before it’s trapped. Drop the oil, with a cup set aside to check for metal fleck. Pull the big window at the rear and check the synchro. If you don’t know exactly what your looking for have someone stroke the range shift. When you see it operate internally you can identify the engagement clutch center and check it in both positions. Make sure your stroking full travel and nothings bent or loose or worn in shift mechanism (fork, set screws, etc). You will see one side of the center plate has more tooth wear than the adjacent side. 

Best thing to do first.....Go to Mack E-Media. They have a great step by step diagnostics packet to diagnose-for-repair or condemn the 300 series range for shift issues. Free download. Ignore the $20 list price and click on the manual shortcut. You could buy a copy, or they offer a download if you have a printer.  Note the PV776-blahblah number in the left lower corner, that’s the publication ID w/description. 

Wife was reading the bio of writer E.B. White to the kids today and a nugget jumped out. Favorite place was summers in Maine at Belgrade Lakes....with....you guessed it....

Maybe a screen somewhere in the valve, but nothing set up to be serviceable access. Just did the synchro in the 05’ CV713, T318 though. In our case we lost range shift instantly when the main shaft snap ring shattered and let the synchro do what it wanted. He was less than one mile from home. Limped back in low and stopped using it. All I had to replace was 3 snap rings and the shifting soft parts w/gaskets. In chassis repair, bought the plate tool. Got away pretty cheap, main synchro was pristine, no damage. 

Is it getting the grind on......?

Looks like circumstance just made your mind up for you. WOW, that’s a big price difference!!! At least of any part I’ve bought from them. Downtime loss can be added right to that $800 then you have the real price differential.

So what are the two prices? Mack vs PAI? Availability of PAI is better?

1 hour ago, R.E.D said:

I'm almost convinced that the pump is the culprit.removed hand primer pump and the fuel was glittery like if the shavings where glistening in the sun.i then removed the plug in front of engine where the pressure tester is used and the fuel is clean.makes me think that for now the debris is not getting past the secondary filter.

Mack wants 800 plus for new pump.i have seen some aftermarket pumps like Pai.Is this a viable option or the mack brand is the way to go?please advise

I’ve had no issues with PAI. Much of what they sell is simply Mack parts re-bagged.

On the negative.....

PAI is poorly, maybe better to say “loosely”, established. Thats how they sell cheaper. You wait, you pay freight and you may (May?) have to fight hard for someone to represent your warranty issues against PAI because there is no one. The store you buy the PAI part through has no major stake in PAI. I wouldn’t want to get in a warranty battle with PAI over a major component failure. They have nothing to lose because they’re a fluid. They have no store front, no bricks and mortar. They are like a bricks and mortar parasite part industry. Everybody around here uses PAI as a side hustle and rarely have stocked a single part I need. I order my parts three weeks to a month in advance to get free shipping. If we get a coop order with other customers the dealer hits a minimum order requirement for a free shipment. You have to use their parts catalog to find your own parts so you better know what your looking for since there is no vin referencing. If your wrong guess who pays the ship back? 

 A dealership has an advocate who is paid a salary to be your warranty lawyer. Some of your $120 hourly rate is going to him, like a retainer fee. A good warranty guy, who maintains relations with the district rep can do a lot of good toward getting policy adjustments made in your favor.

Thats how PAI sells cheap, but decent quality, parts.

positive.....

Its just a fuel pump, you could fix it on the side of a road, it’s probably Mack rebranded, it has a filter on both sides if it dies young so your motor and $5,000 worth of downstream Bosch parts are safe, you’ll save 30%, you know your OEM part number so using the PAI crossover is simple, if you are installing it yourself Mack might (might?)still give you a run-around for warranty...so could as well have used PAI.

1 hour ago, 41chevy said:

Mere 40 miles from me.

Nah ,not the M917 I bought two 1968 Am General 6x4 tractor units faster and  blend in with traffic better.

We got them in the middle, POPS Soda Ranch on Rte 66 in Arkadia, Oklahoma   600 plus brands of sodas including Maine Root and Deadwood Graveyard Delight.

 

Website says they are now up to 700 sodas.

Teriyaki Beef Jerky flavored soda..... jury’s out on that one?