Mack Technician

We'll trade, even-ante, Natalie Maines for Adele?

Welcome aboard!!  

1 hour ago, ivanuke said:

lol Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated!

I see your 2001 schematics for sale on Mack E-Media for $54. Oddly, they are $22 for a 2000. Must be because of chassis mating. They group CL with CH on pre-2001 then the conversion occurs and chassis-groups CH with CX in 2001. 01’ is a 6 pc set. 

5 hours ago, USMC205 said:

Any idea of the torque specs for the manifold bolts?  The gasket is a metal type manifold gasket so it might be a little more than I’m thinking.

Pedestal to block = 40ftlbs

Oil cooler plate cluster to pedestal = 20 ftlbs

Go to your dealership at 8PM with a flat of white printer paper. Ask the night foreman/service writer to print off the wiring diagrams or allow you access to print them off. If your a customer they should oblige. If they do it, come back with a large flat of bakery. Tips and food make you an “A list” customer. Night shifters at a dealership are the most under appreciated creatures on earth. 

“When Truck reliability is outlawed l’ll become an outlaw”

~ Plight of the modern Owner Operator

Frame pitch. Jack your front axle off the ground 5” and both tandem will have even geometry. 

Trust the suspension gauge to set height and never lean on visual interpretation. 

29 minutes ago, steeler said:

Tell me about it! My mind used to be an encyclopedia of Mack part numbers. Our parts shelves lined up alphabetically, now I couldn't tell you the part number of squat.

Our parts manager was discombobulated. He was standing there with a small bag of engine bolts in his hand and a suspension Z-spring on the floor. According to Volvo they had to be sitting on the shelf next to each other to be numerically synchronized.

1 hour ago, steeler said:

THIS! Make certain you have the exact gasket that came of it.

Volvo helped cured the issue by screwing up Mack’s parts system. Now they have to chassis search every part instead of operating on shelf-memory and the first two alpha’s. 

Make sure you get the correct pedestal gasket for the oil manifold base. I believe there are two variations that can be easily swapped after Mack did the left hand revision for the flipped centrimax and cluster plate cooler. 

Valve cover tag, too center left, under......

“Date of service assy. MFG.”

Pull pan, pull oil pump, disassemble, Check oil relief plunger and seat for galling. If it’s galled too bad replace, otherwise clean it up. Check pump rotating group, of gears pass inspection install it. 

Mid pump looks good pull a rod and a main to check bearings. 

On ‎5‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 4:32 PM, ivanuke said:

Hello, Ive contacted my local mack dealer (Vanguard) and they were not very helpful in determining the correct item to purchase to obtain an electrical schematic for my truck. I also contacted mack directly with no response. Hopefully someone here can chime in.

I purchased this from the mack eMedia center

8-217-2007

Electrical System Troubleshooting, GU, CHU, CXU, Pinnacle Chassis Wiring Diagrams   Is the CHU the same as my 2001 CH613? I'm trying to look at the reverse switch wiring from the transmission to the dash as  I am no longer able to hear my rear siren and rear back up lights dont come on and having many connectors unplugged that I need to check continuity for. Thank you.

This is the diagram for your truck reverse circuit. Go to Fuse (FU42) 42 in the right upper corner and follow flow.

Reverse Circuit.pdf

You have the wrong diagram ordered. You should have posted for assistance first and then ordered your diagram instead of the reverse order.

5 hours ago, Kiadrake76 said:

Can the H ring possibly be installed from the bottom? My supervisor is determined to try it. From what I've read here the head had to be pulled. But, I'd be grateful to learn otherwise.

My vote is no-go on the bottom-up installation. You'll never know if your in perfect alignment.

H ring.pdf

42 minutes ago, Rix said:

No it's got grease. 

I was just making sure it's not supposed to have something exotic I've never heard of. I don't really know why it would, but.....Renault. 

LoL

I've got quite a lot of the pyroplex blue in #2. Excellent film performance. 

Mobilith is just good'ol, common, everyday, grease.

4 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Yeah but it was a wasted trip. Got the  "I'm going to restore it when I get free time." The guy is 77 years old,shuffles along with an O2 machine and smokes.

Stinks because it is the glass one piece nose, cast radiator, wheels, fuel tanks and a lot of other small bits I need/want. I'll post up the chase photos tomorrow.

 

 

Unfortunate....

Must be common?

Dad had Diabetes, COPD, congested heart, high blood pressure, O2 rocket pack and two restoration projects he was going to finish. Now I’m waiting for the price of scrap to go up so mom has some supper club cash. 

Go with a synthetic NLGI thickness of #2. Mobilith 460 in a NLGI #2 would be my pick. 

7 hours ago, fjh said:

 Volvo loader at the shop at the moment just put cups in that puppy Not even a 400 hp engine !

OH Snap!....hit Re-edit, I just added an asterisks to my previous post.

* My 400HP D13 theory hereby only applies to folks who don't huff ether in arctic Canadian regions. 

3 hours ago, 41chevy said:

That's the Packard Plant, been abandoned since 1956.

Wasn't near there but did get to have a 4 hour visit with Michigan Specialized Truck Enforcement Team because my trailer is ex military and the numbers looked "off" to them.

Did you find the grapevine Mack?

3 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

 

Not that I heard of, but to me it sounds like something getting sucked onto the fuel pickup tube in the tank. Like a shop rag or something smaller but stiff. That's why when you shut the truck off it'll run normal again. I have seen it happen with the seal from a fuel supplement bottle. 

Same here. Guy lost his fuel cap and had a leaky fuel cap to replace it (wrong, oversized, threads). He laid a bread bag over the opening and screwed the cap on over it to “seal it”. You can guess the rest. Ends up a bread bag becomes invisible when submerged in fuel. 

The injector yokes are beefy & cup basement is thick. Find a fed-up guy who has an old engine that burns a little oil and has chronic cup leakage. Drill yokes a size up and tap the cap screw one size up? Install a 12.9 bolt and lay into that prick just short of injector distortion. Worse case would be bore shoulder collapses dropping injector into the cylinder and it's reman time. Best case he never has another injector cup leak and Mack sends a hitman to kill you for all the injector sales you cost Volvo.    

Are they doing a double pump with a face mount? That's a big unit to hang even with a good tail support!  

Price is too low? They are not going heavy enough spec. Or is it possibly used?

Split can be nice in winter if the truck recirculates warm fuel to bulkhead wall and preheats oil.

If they put a straight baffle wall in the tank to act as septum they are prone to cracking. If the welder puts a hemisphere section in the tank as septum it will last many years. IOW- cut the end off another tank and install it in the center as the bulkhead divider. Can't explain it, but it holds up... gives flex. If it's a steel tank you can just go thick and straight, aluminum is fussy.     

Mismatched on return pipe size, but probably got away with it. Used as a two line so he could have it as a “grocery getter”, hauling firewood once a year with his lowboy truck maybe? 

On 4/19/2019 at 1:59 PM, 41chevy said:

The hair loss claim is real. . . mines falling out  or else I growing taller and my hairs not.

The Butterscotch Root Beer arrived but I'm not going to sample it until I get back next week from my St. Joe, Michigan truck search.

What's going on in the land of "Youbetcha"?

Buying trucks?

Hanging out with Uncle Ted N.?

Drinking Detroit Faygo soda with the Insane Clown Posse?

Checking out Ford Motor Company

Pumps don't make pressure, they make flow. Resistance to flow makes pressure and heat. That should be an open center valve set-up, so full flow back to res on both circuits when at rest.  

Too much GPM will build heat if you have plumbing undersized. Too much oil flowing over a relief (because not matched to the engineered flow rate) will create localized heat at the valve. Generally, you will only be running 15-20 minutes at a time so you won't go critical heat......unless….. you plan on playing "forwarder" for another truck(s)? You can lower the RPM of the truck to reduce flow on an oversize pump, but you will end up going under the minimum recommended input speed for the pump.

IOW-don't guess on pump. If you didn't get one with the loader purchase.....get the right one. Are the I.D.'s of the pipes on that trailer two PSI pipes @ 1-1/4" and 1 return pipe @ 2"?

Looks like someone routed your stabilizer lines outside the receiver tubes? Can't see how those won't get ripped off?