Mack Technician

Radiator shops here won’t touch them. If any part is plastic composite they tell you to pitch them. 

Don’t imagine DEF “tank thaw” coolant matters right now, but, in terms of internal corrosion blockage.......a clogged capillary means a clogging artery. 

Unitized hub........what did you do to it?????

If it doesn't reseal, and its not a sensor on the opposite side, punch a hole and run it though to its mate. Easier that replacement of bulkhead.

Swapping thoughts with a well established heavy haul member today about adding an AI460 to his fleet of pavement crackers. Looking forward...He wants to camshaft swap up front. Jump in anyone who has cam swapped a 460, but I’m advising him there’s no great advantage. 

Mack didn’t/couldn’t afford to/ failed to build a variable exhaust restriction to make the AI engine NOx reduction work at all RPM’s. Instead they built a simple, logic free, fixed restriction that works in one RPM range. At low RPM and low fuel delivery rate there isn’t enough flow back pressure to make the AI fixed restriction work properly, so Mack lowered fuel delivery to lower exhaust ppm at low RPM. Low end torque disappeared. If Mack had designed a variable restriction exhaust they could have choked the flow at low RPM, created back pressure, cooled the burn and reduced NOx @ low RPM. They could have delivered more fuel on low end with a variable restriction and built torque.

Any fixed restriction has a pressure delta curve, IOW the more you try to force through a fixed restriction the higher the back pressure.

Low RPM, Low flow volume, low back pressure, higher NOx, reduced fuel delivery. No torque and horsepower.

High RPM, high exhaust flow, high back pressure, lower NOx, increased fuel delivery. Enough horsepower and torque but overconsumption of fuel due to inefficient, uncooled, EGR back flow. The stock granites get 4 MPG, so plenty of fuel is flowing out at working RPM range, but with a poor return.

With nothing else considered......you have a fuel system that delivers too little fuel at low RPM and too much at high RPM. The product of catering fuel delivery to match a fixed restriction rather than varying the restriction to cater to the needed fuel delivery.

Once modified.......Too much fuel is making lots of heat and lots of power when running more clean air and less scavenged EGR gas. Everybody notices the pyro operating range is elevated after the upgrades. Flow injectors fix the low RPM (low fuel) delivery issue. Flow injectors also increase an already high output of fuel at full governed RPM. That generates your higher torque/HP return, higher NOx and higher pyro. You can back off the accelerator now since your fuel is giving a power return and MPG increases. You can use the extra top end when needed as long as you manage the pyro.

Disclaimer....

With the current arrangement you have sufficient power and a manageable creep on the pyro. Some bump scavenging is likely still occurring (impossible to know how much) and lowering the combustion temp. If the residual scavenge is completely eliminated (by AC cam swap) with this set-up it’s possible to see a rise in pyro beyond the common, manageable, 900F. If little or no bump scavenging is occurring(with the original camshaft),  because of our restriction elimination, a bump-less AC cam wouldn’t add performance and could drive more pyro temp....with this set-up. There could be a combination of air and fuel that favors the AC camshaft plus manages heat, however I’m not convinced it would deliver more to the wheels. 

I say test, verify blow-by and do an in-frame as necessary. Check for critical stuff that will ruin you again, like air intake leaks from filter housing to turbo causing dusting of sleeves.  

IMO....

A little hot leakage oil will eat a bite of whatever rubber it lands on then hangout and turn to black dust cake and protect surrounding metal from road salt for the next year.....

A constant stream of hot leakage oil will turn your truck into a rubber buffet line, destroy harness wires, Make trans mount rubbers into gummy penguins, turn brake hoses to black licorice and when you rake your finger nails across your rear air bags you'll be leaving grooves.  

17 hours ago, Dave Pannabecker said:

What's the specs to build it? Connected to the draft tube ?

Click on above link....

Build a manometer and see how many inches of blowby you have. 

That’s nuts! Tough enough to disassemble the thing, now deal with all that counterweight baggage. 

There’s more than just lines in retro kit. You need bulkhead passages, flow checks, etc.

2 hours ago, Steve 97 said:

Can a guy put the power leash on mine instead of trying to fix the jake

 No, unfortunately. A reverse engineered ASET AI is the closest you’ll get to your engine with a great brake. 

Truth be told.......Until Powerleash came on the scene Mack had never had a really great engine brake. 

Crank bearings are = or < critical than camshaft bearings in capturing the oil drop-out. Line kits help, it’s not a waste of time.  

Update Jakes

install externals (lines) w/flow check

high volume oil pump

p1 bearings on mains

new cam bearings if all else fails. 

It loses oil pressure/flow to actuate jakes in lower RPM because of oil not making it to engine top with sufficient volume and pressure. 

What do you want to know about? Installation of kit? DIY? 

Yup, pretty cool little marks Mr. President.

On ‎7‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 12:31 PM, 41chevy said:

The dyed fuel enforcement program was launched in 1994 by the government of the United States. It is run by IRS. Whether it is Washington, Texas, Florida, Ohio, Alabama, or other states, the fine for illegal use of dyed diesel is $10/gallon or $1,000 per violation (a tank with red diesel), whichever is greater. For instance, if 20 gallons of such fuel are revealed in your tank, the fine will be $1,000. Two such tanks will make it double. After the first violation, each repeated one will increase a penalty by $1,000 compared to previous violation, so the total amount of penalty is very flexible. Add to that the State tax fines per gallon which is from 30 to 80 cents per gallon depending on state.  here ie a link to a tax fine chart.

 

http://offroadguides.com/what-is-the-fine-for-running-off-road-diesel.html

Years back they did a sting operation in the county south of us. They waited at a Livestock auction house till the lot was full then started busting farmers. Most farms have a diesel pulling the livestock transport trailers. Not too many farm diesel pickups without red fuel in them prior to it. Then again not too many gasoline pickups on the farm without red fuel (doctored up on Marvel Mystery Oil). They all seem to have a jug. Farmer took me out in his Piper Cub one day and before we left he was putting a few spoonful in each tank for good luck. Still alive so...………..its a marvel?

Failed pocket bearing at union point of main shafts? In my mind that could go elliptical on you. 

I wanted to list Sparksracing's (above) comments. He burned out an AI manifold and needed to replace it so he put the E-Tech manifold on his Aset and ran all original parts in tandem with a Programmer (he said Pittsburgh brand). The transition of surface mates can't be smooth, but its a mate.  Right off the line he blew his tube boot off and the thing went to smoke, hence the black tar seeping out the gasket. He got things straightened out and from his observation it sounds like the manifold turned him from a 460 Econodyne into a 460 Maxidyne.       First AMI460?

Ok 

i have re-tested and all looks ok. No more slobber and normal black smoke, but more than before. The truck runs good for the moment, the only difference. I think is the turbo boosts a little bit slower than before. Before i would boost up to 32 psi now it takes longer to get it, but the truck has more power, it’s strange. I think all is ok. I think when the boot kicked off the engine was not breathing and a little bit of engine oil was go into the exhaust and caused slobber, cause now all is ok . Today it’s too hot 42 degrees outside and the pyro looks like normal, temps 8-900f, but when I let off the fuel pedal the pyros going down more fast than before. I found it more normal, it’s like my Peterbilt.

thank you so much 

Paul, don't get uncomfortable or weird about this. You seem like a cool guy with trucks and guns. Conservative is a big plus. My mom is a relatively young widow. Guarantee she has better dating etiquette than the chubby quadruped and she's never tried Moxie.

Fine engine, great chassis.

The E-Tech engine of that vintage went through a period of short life on camshafts. That's how it got the negative attention. Mack did a bunch of product improvements to lengthen the component life, many of which your engine likely has.  

What color is the coolant in the res? Lot of ruined engines from guys dropping universal coolant into that block.

Two things you should do...…..

1. get the engine hot and see if the Jake brake gets weak as oil get thin. That tells you if the engines tight and updated.

2. Pull an oil sample and have it tested. 99% of Mack E-Tech illnesses will be revealed with a $30 bill.

If you want an overall opinion talk to Ezrider, he knows that chassis vintage, nuts and bolts and engine, better than most operators I've encountered. Click on his picture and you can message him via his profile.

8 hours ago, R.E.D said:

Ok will do.worst case scenario only the back box needs to be removed correct?

In every case I’ve repaired one, yes. You may want to sweep basement of PTO and front box and clean magnets. You’d have to have a real grenade to take out the front. It’s a good time to take a look around, especially at the “Polish exploder”. There’s a large mid septum, main shaft, ball bearing that sheds its race if you look at it wrong. Its the.only bearing in the trans that says “Poland” on it. Cosmopolitan I guess? 

Mack isn’t as vulnerable as Fuller with their putting the PTO at lowest collection point for junk accumulation, but in either case I’d clean the PTO out and check it’s bearing play. Transmissions survive synchro failures, they seldom survive a catastrophic PTO failure. Usually synchros give your lower countershaft bearing rollers a bad case of freckles, about it though. 

18 hours ago, R.E.D said:

Can this be addressed from the outside or does the tail has to come of to change seal?

Make sure you don’t put too much lip stick on the corpse. If you're chewed up inside no external fix will be useful. Start point is making sure you have at least 60% of solid, untapered, tooth engagement surface left on clutch teeth. You did “progressive” damage. All soft parts, seals, get changed during synchro fix. If it’s ground down your already pulling the rear case and cylinders, covers, yoke, etc. 

If you lose high suddenly you are better off than a progressive loss of low. If you crack a snap ring your high is gone instantly and you may get away with less than $400-$500 in hard and soft parts. Pop your tranny window and see how much grind damage you have. Nothing wrong with an 8LL