m16ty

I've been cleaning out the shop and found this PTO that came off a 10 speed Mack. Years ago the trans took a dump and I pulled the PTO before I got rid of it. Air shift.

I'll take $300 plus the ride.

You can weld flanges, such a lengthening a frame, but in most instances it's a bad idea. That's why I said "as a general rule". It's never a good idea, that I can think of, to drill a frame flange.

To add a cross member as in the example above, the correct procedure would be to bolt it into the frame web.

You'll have to weld the flange to fix that truck. It will do no good though if you don't remove that cross member first. What I'd personally do to fix that truck is remove the cross member, grind all that mess off, weld the frame up, and then have a frame piece formed that will fit inside the existing frame, and bolt it in. Other people have other ways but that's they way I've always fixed them and haven't had any problems.

Here is a perfect example of people doing frame modifications that don't know what they are doing. https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=352&acctid=1941

What they did was welded in a crossmember (to support a toolbox) and caused the frame to crack. Even looks like it has cracked before, and instead of getting rid of the problem, they just added more weld, which still didn't work. It all boils down to if you do a frame modification that can't flex, it will break every time. Also, as a general rule, you should avoid welding or drilling on frame flanges

3 hours ago, MACKTRUCKS4 said:

Was it hitting the cab or hitting the cross brace that goes across the cab mounts? When I changed my trans in my Superliner from a 9 speed to a 12 speed, I had to move the cross brace to the other position to clear the trans. The brackets for the cab have two different positions for different trans.

You know, now that I think about it, I seem to remember putting a steel block under each side of the cross brace to raise the brace.

Or maybe I didn't know there was other bolts to raise the cab. It's probably been 20 years ago. I just happened to think of the project because I was cleaning my shop and ran across the PTO that came off the 10 speed when I pulled it out.

Years ago I had a 1985 R688 with Mack 10 speed. I never did like the 10 speed so when the range shifter went to acting up, I looked to swap it out. I ended up finding a 12 speed out of a Superliner.

When I went to install the 12 speed in the R, there wasn't enough clearance between the trans and the floorboard. I ended up having to raise the cab 1.5" (the best I remember) to get everything to fit. At the time, I thought maybe the 12 speed was never put into a R is the reason it wouldn't fit but since then I have seen other Rs with the 12 speed.

I wonder now why I had to raise the cab to get it to fit ?

Number 2 liner leak?

On 1/10/2017 at 8:02 AM, Underdog said:

All this fuss about whether Saddam Hussein had WMD or not, IIRC didn't we all watch surveillance video for weeks convoys of trucks REMOVING said WMD, while Congress dilly-dallied around trying to make a decision whether or not to invade Iraq?

I've always said this about WMD but even most republicans now say it was bad intelligence.

Everybody seems to forget what was the very first start of the second Iraq war, Saddam threw out the UN weapons inspectors. Why would he throw out the inspectors and "poke the bear" if he had nothing to hide? All he had to do is let the inspectors stay and he would probably still be in power today.

The left will say we went back the second time for oil and for Bush to finish what his Daddy started. The right will say we went back because Saddam had ties to terrorism. While there is some truth to both of those theories, the real reason that gave us the authority to go back is because Saddam violated the terms of the cease fire agreement by throwing the inspectors out. In a legal sense, there weren't two Iraq wars, the second time was just a continuation of the first time. The first Gulf War was never officially over, it was just a cease fire, contingent on terms of allowing UN weapon inspectors to keep tabs on Saddam's WMDs.     

I'd have to do some checking to see of the above statistics were accurate but it wouldn't surprise me if it all was true.

By the time you add every piece of assistance people on welfare get, the price could very well be $168 per day. Food stamps (EBT card), welfare, Obamacare, housing, tax credits, Obama phone, child care, the list goes on and on.

I've seen several people try to build homemade waste oil heaters. They do work, kind of. I've seen them produce a clean burn but you have to be constantly fiddling with it to keep the fuel/air mixture right. The problem is that most of them are made to burn dirty oil. There's just no way to accurately meter dirty oil. Only way I know of to meter the oil is force it, under constant pressure, through a orface. To do that the oil has to be clean.

I know of one guy that had a factory made waste oil heater that he ended up taking out. He said it just got to be too big of a mess. One problem is they use a lot of oil so that required him to have to get oil from others. The other oil would sometimes be dirty, clog filters, and just make a mess. Add to the fact that not too long ago, recyclers were paying right at $1 per gallon for used oil. I think it's come down some now with the price of fuel.

My setup works ok. What I've got is a wood stove made out of 30" gas pipe with a oil drip line in the top. I use wood and let the oil drip on it. It will really increase the heat output and make the wood last longer, it works best if you use green wood. The down side is it is a very dirty burn and stinks. It doesn't really matter to me out at the farm but it may not be something you would want to use in a neighborhood. 

I wish I could find a 1202 new for $2,240.

Yes, I'm running 12.00-24. Only thing the extra speed would be good for is going to the job empty. It's not a deal breaker either way. I don't have to have it but I would use it if it was there.

I'm running 65k rears. The more I think about it, I may just sell the 1241 and pick up a 1202.

David,

Yes, this is for the RD822SX. I've been looking at the AT1202 and I may end up going that route. The OD gear would be nice but I can live without it, it tops out now at around 60 mph. I mainly need a lower forward speed. The 12 speed trans is already plenty low enough in reverse, my brother says reverse will be so low with a auxiliary that it will actually go forward, LOL.

This truck is going to be tasked with pulling a 100 ton trailer and I hope to upgrade to a 200 ton setup in the future.

On 11/30/2016 at 8:11 AM, Brian Blaylock said:

 

On 11/30/2016 at 8:47 AM, david wild said:

 

On 11/30/2016 at 8:54 AM, Hobert62 said:

 

I'm back on this project after a long wait. I've just been too busy to fool with it and with winter coming on I have some time.

In my search for the correct yokes to match my driveline, I ended up calling TTC ( the people who are now building the Spicer trans). Talked to a guy that seemed very knowledgeable on auxiliary transmissions. He told me I was crazy putting a 1241 behind a E-9, 12 speed and that it would never hold up. This has given me pause and wondering if  I need to rethink this. Anybody with real world experience with a Spicer 1241 care to chime in?

The issue I called him about is my current driveline has 1880 yokes and the biggest available for a 1241 is a 1810.

My RD822 sx came with 12.00R-24 on the front and 11.00R-24 on the tandems. I don't recall the weight rating on a 12.00R-24 but I think it's right around 9,000 lb single.

I looked at a old 100 ton Talbert trailer the other day that had 14.00-24 tires, talk about some big tires.

I don't think there is anything Federally in the works that would ban older trucks in all states. CA is another story. As of now, stay out of CA and you should be ok.

I ended up getting the bearings and seals at a bearing place in Nashville.

$1,000 per axle for bearings, races, and seals. Would have been a lot cheaper going with import but I went with all US stuff.

Thanks for everybody's help.

8 hours ago, br549 said:

My antique machine show's RD822SX001100      VIN 1M2P193Y7FA001100   does it match your VIN?  This one has a 200" wheel base.  It also say Build Date is 4/25l85

Yes, that's it. That's another weird thing about this truck it was built in '85 but is titled as a '91 and it appears to have not been used until '91. Truck was showing 26,000 miles when I got it last year.

Thomas, Yes, my truck was one of those "steel nosed Macks". The truck was originally blue but was painted while before I got it, presumably after it got back state side by the TN National Guard. I have seen one more of these trucks pop up. It was sold on Government Liquidation awhile back in CA I think.  I think there were around 50 trucks total, I have no idea how many made it back. I'd love to find one of those trailers they pulled.

I've got what info the Mack Museum has on the truck and know a little about when the TN National Guard had it but I have zero info of it's time in the military. I'd like to have some military info on it. I even talked to a guy the had access to the military computer files on vehicle inventory dating back to the '80s and there was nothing on my truck that he could find. 

From the investigation I've done, my truck was actually one of the two used trucks that were deployed. It was ordered and built for a coal company and they did take possession of it but it never did have coal bed added before it ended back up at Mack and deployed to Desert Storm.

I don't have any info as to why the customer traded it back in to Mack. The trail from the Mack Museum goes cold as soon as it was sold at the dealership when it was new. I have not be able to locate any military records for the time of service. The next record that pops up is it's at the TN National Guard and then the Humphreys County Hwy Dept. ,where I bought it at auction.

The bad part is in TN (unless they changed it lately) it is law that you must move over for emergency vehicles but it is perfectly legal not to move over for ordinary citizens that are on the shoulder. You'd think they would afford the citizens the same protections as law enforcement and EMTs but they don't.     

I've got a 1991 RD822SX. I called the local Mack dealer (McMahon) today to look up some rear wheel bearings. The parts guy asked for my VIN and when I gave it to him he said it wasn't in the system. Mind you, I submitted my VIN info to the Mack Museum and they sent me the build sheet for the truck and a bunch of other info. I even told the parts guy such and told him I could look at the build sheet and give him the rear axle number but all I got was silence on the phone. He then proceeded to tell my I must be wrong because he had a RD688s in the system that had the same last 6 digits of the VIN. Now anybody that has seen a RD688s and a RD822sx parked side by side would understand they are completely different trucks. Why is it the Mack Museum can find my truck in the system but a dealer can't?

Anyway, I ended up finding the bearings and seals at a local bearing place. I also found out how expensive it is do do a bearing and seal job on 65k axles, about $500 a wheel for just parts.

We had a '83 FL catch fire in the battery box and got so hot that it melted the aluminum cover. Why on earth it didn't burn the truck to the ground, I don't know. Disconnects are a good thing. 

When I asked the museum about my RD822sx they sent me a owners manual, truck build sheet, sales literature, engine service manual, and truck service manual. 

On September 6, 2016 at 6:32 AM, tjc transport said:

my bet is it is going to be a dealer only service item, like the exploder trans is. with no dipstick or fluid fill.

When we bought our Explorer, first thing I did was locate all the check points. I looked all over for a trans dipstick. I called the dealership and found out it didn't have one.

I've got a friend with a Dodge. He threw the belt and we couldn't find belt routing info anywhere in the manual or in the engine compartment. I guess that's a dealer service item also now. We did manage to finally figure it out after putting it on wrong once. 

I've been a diesel fan for years. When I bought a new truck last year (2015 Chevy 2500 6.0) I went with gas.

There's just too much crap on modern diesels and you've got to deal with the DEF. The engine base may run 100s of thousands of miles but all the electronics and such will have to be serviced much sooner, at great cost.

It used to be that if you bought a diesel and drove it long enough, you'd finally save money over a gas engine due to fuel economy and cheaper price of diesel. Now I don't think you'd ever get ahead cost wise.