m16ty

1 hour ago, fjh said:

highly doubt the the vac thing as you have open valves to fight with the chances of getting a total vacuum is slim to impossible  at best !

If your valves are working right, there should never be an air passageway from the exhaust manifold to the atmosphere (other than out the stack). There may be a intake or exhaust valve open, but never at the same time.

I’ve fought for 2 afternoons trying a minimally evasive way to remove the leaking joint, now I’m ready to give up. Only way I see at this point is to remove the whole passenger side manifold to get it apart.

I think I’m going to try some exhaust putty and see if it works. I’m just afraid I’m going to end up with broken bolts and all the joints leaking, if I try to take it all off. Has anybody used the putty with decent results? I saw a YouTube video where a guy put a shop vac into the exhaust outlet when he applied the putty. Claimed it would suck the putty into the leak, makes sense to me.

14 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

 

Of course Henry Ford was very close friends with Hitler as well. Hitler kept a photograph of Henry Ford on his office desk. Ford received Hitler's "Grand Cross of the German Eagle" in 1938.

Ford is the only American mentioned favorably in Mein Kampf, although he is only mentioned twice:^[62] Adolf Hitler wrote, "only a single great man, Ford, [who], to [the Jews'] fury, still maintains full independence...[from] the controlling masters of the producers in a nation of one hundred and twenty millions." Speaking in 1931 to a Detroit News reporter, Hitler said he regarded Ford as his "inspiration", explaining his reason for keeping Ford's life-size portrait next to his desk.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Ford

.

Ford must have changed his tune, or at least didn't mind reaping profits of Hitler's defeat. Ford was heavily involved in the war effort, being the major supplier of Jeeps, among other things.

For sale is a Spicer P1241c auxiliary transmission. 4 speed, LL, L, Direct, OD.

Had a bearing down in it. We tore it down, inspected, replaced bearings and input shaft, and rebuilt air-shift mechanism.

Asking $4,000. 

Would consider trade for Fuller AT1202.

12 hours ago, david wild said:

As long as you use your 1241 for low speed work it will probably work but if you start wanting to run long distance it will grenade, I don't know which bearing it is but one of them fails, there is a shop in WA. that  mills out the hole for the race and they install a larger bearing and then they hold up longer but still fail at some point. they were never built for high input torque, you can look at their input chart and you will see this,  Kenworth would not warranty 1241 put into a new truck but will 1202, mostly depends on the operator, take care of it and it will work, drive like a animal and it will fail. 

The bearing you speak of, is probably the one that was down in the 1241 when I got it. It's a small needle roller bearing that connects the input shaft to the main shaft. It took out the input shaft with it (wore the bearing surface out). I've got it all fixed up with new bearings, main shaft, and rebuilt the air shift mechanism. It's currently for sale.

Another problem I've ran into is the RD822sx uses 1880 u-joints. They don't make a yoke that large for the 1241, so either I've got to have something made, or use one of those funky 2 sized joints.

I've found what is supposed to be a good take out 1202 for $3,500. I might bite the bullet on it. 

Yes, it has the big kingpin.

On 10/6/2018 at 3:06 PM, david wild said:

Had them Iraq, maintain he steering and they work fine, like I said maintain the steering.  

David, Do you have any idea of what the real world capacity of these are? I talked to a guy, and he had the pictures to prove it, that said he's hauled 100 tons without problems. I know the military rates them at 70 tons, but they figure ratings very conservative, and are based on going over terrain that nobody would even think of attempting in the real world. I can permit it in TN at 280,000 lb, which would equal out to around 200,000 lbs payload. 

8 hours ago, fjh said:

Usually your best bet is to disturb just the elbows you'll need to remove the motor mount on the side your working on and jack the engine up to get to the bolts!

The bolts will likely be seized so soak em down with penetrating oil for a few days and have a torch handy cause your likely to have a fight on your hands ! When and if you get this elbow off install new  seal ( piston rings) and assemble with High temp silicone  this fix will work for only a while as usually everything will be worn from vibration the only real way to seal these is to replace the elbows or if you can find a machine shop that can sleeve them !THEY ARE HARD TO FIND AND PRICEY if you do find them! I have also seen them welded Good luck with it!

When you say "welded", are you talking about welding the joint up solid? I wouldn't mind welding the elbow joint, as it's a piece that wouldn't need to come apart again, but is that a wise thing to do? I assume the joints are there to take up for expansion and contraction, would you take a chance of something breaking if you welded it up solid where it couldn't give?  

On my E9, I've got a leak in the exhaust manifold in the elbow on the right side where it turns up to go into the turbo. How hard is this to fix? Since the manifold is made into a bunch of different pieces, I'm afraid when I disturb it, I'll have leaks everywhere. From looking at the manual, it looks like it has something like a piston ring that is inside the joints to seal them. Is there any trick to taking these apart and getting them back together where it won't leak? 

My RD822sx currently has a E9 with Mack 12 speed trans. I've been looking for a way to get a lower gear for heavy hauling. 

I've got a Spicer 1241c auxiliary but everybody I've talked to says it won't hold up in the RD with E9. I've been on the lookout for a Fuller AT1202 auxiliary, but they go from $3,500 for take-outs to $5,500 for rebuilt. Since all I need is a slower off-road speed, I'm wondering if I'd be just as well with a 2-speed transfer case. Seems you can pick up a TC15/TC25 transfer case pretty cheap. I'm wondering if it would be a ok idea to just install one of these transfer cases and just not use the front output? 

2 hours ago, HeavyGunner said:

What are you planning on hauling with that or is it just going to be for show?

It will be used to haul heavy oversized loads behind my RD822sx.

On 5/30/2017 at 8:49 AM, Mitslplik said:

It looks like it's been a few years since this post but I just wanted to say "thanks!" to everyone at Mack & anyone who had a hand in making this happen. I was a driver of one of those trucks with a Kalyn trailer. My unit put them all to good use! I've driven many a Mack since then as a civilian but those were beasts! I saw one or two broken trailer axles but don't recall the trucks ever giving us any trouble. 

Do any of the moderators or admin have a way to get in touch with Mitslplik? I could send him a PM but he hasn't been on the site since the above post. 

Owning one of these Desert Storm Macks, I'd love to have so more info of his time in theater. Mine is painted white now, but was originally blue. I'd also like to see any more pics anybody has to see if I can spot my truck. 

On my RD822sx, E9, if she sits for about a week, you have to give it a sniff of either to get it to start. If you start it every few days it starts fine. Sounds to me like it’s loosing prime. I’ve gave the fuel system a look over and see nothing obvious, anybody have any idea what it could be?

On 4/18/2018 at 7:02 AM, kscarbel2 said:

I meant, what does the original look like?

Yes, the original does look like that. It was a White Rogers. The one from Mack has nothing on it except a sticker that says 12v.

On 4/16/2018 at 3:45 PM, kscarbel2 said:

Does it look like this 2MR350 accessory relay?

https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ve/MLV-494922013-switch-msw-1242-2mr350-mack-_JM

No, the one they gave me has the poles around the radius.

I’m just concerned that they gave me a starter solenoid, of which most can only handle intermittent use. 

I usually deal with Watts, but need this ASAP, and didn’t want to wait on shipping. Our local Mack Dealer (McMahon) are idiots.

Does anybody have the Mack part number for the dash solenoid on a 1985 RD822SX? I’m pretty sure all R models are the same. 

I just picked one up from my local Mack dealer and it looks nothing like the one that came off the truck. I just want to make sure the parts guy sold me a continuous duty solenoid and not a starter solenoid. 

The new part number he gave me is 8609-98226wr.

We own a warehouse and rented a section out to a guy that repairs fire trucks. Looking at the tandem fire trucks that come in and out, they all are running either Hendrickson air ride or some other walking beam/air hybrid.

I’m wondering why this is? I would have thought they would just have standard air ride, unless things like pumpers go off-road more than I figured.

12 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Pretty sure it is hung from structure using a cradle.

Yes, the load is actually suspended on cables.

9 hours ago, gxbxc said:

Yea but look at the jobs lost in Nashville at Avco aero structures  selling it or moving it mexcio

This autoclave had been shut down for a few years. But yes, the plant is nowhere near what it was. 

At the height of WWII, about 6,000 people worked there. Until recent years, there were about 3,000. Now I think they are less than 500.

The load is a autoclave. Used to cure composite airplane wings and components. It's basically just a big pressure cooker.  

Here is a load we helped with back in the spring. Going from Nashville, TN to somewhere in Mexico. Perkins was just taking it to Laredo, TX where they transloaded it to a Mexican outfit.  230,000 LB, 16' wide, 90' long, and 15' tall.

I 

Does the rear mount PTO change speed with what gear you are in like the side mount?

That sounds like it. I did notice a roof mount A/C.

Is it just a B body on a late model running gear?