07cl733

2001 would be an e-tech, assuming the 400 is a 2001. The 460 definitely had the offset cam key. My understanding is that without changing the cam timing they heat when turned up, but I've never tried it. The gear is pressed on, so you have to pull the cam to change it.

Hello all, I'm not on here a lot, but saw this question and thought I'd throw in my experience for what it's worth. I run an E-tech 460 and regularly haul 80-90k and occasionally 120+ in the mountain west. I run 3.65:1 rears and overdrive 10 speed transmission, .71 over, I think. You couldn't give me 4.3 gears, an 18 speed would be nice when the mud gets deep. I have run a CL with an E9500 and a CL with a 565 ISX. They both would certainly out pull my brother's 460, that I ran with frequently, but I wouldn't gain enough time on him in a day to make up for the fuel mileage difference. He beat me at the bank every day. My other brother's E7 400 was definitely a little anemic. My brother sold that 460 at around 760k miles and the guy turned it up and lost the motor. That is all I know about it and it was a 98 E-tech, so it may have been a cam issue. I wish I still had a V8, (who wouldn't?) but am very pleased with the performance of the 460 and with any care, the life expectancy is phenomenal from these little engines. Also, try and find a newer truck as light as the one you have. Now if the topic were engine brake performance, I'd have a different opinion... In summation, I think if it is a 400, turn it to 460 and if it's a 460, run it. As others here have said, the E7 is only 11.9 liters.

Okay, thanks. That gives me another direction to go. It has been hard to track down the problem since the motor isn't running real bad. It still fires in all cylinders, maybe, just not as good in one of them. I'll take that advice on not swapping good for bad.

I changed the injectors and it seemed to help the power a little. Thanks Oldredmack. I'll have to look there next. Did you get a code on the eup? How did you determine it was number 6?

I did not pull the injectors first. I was careful not to set the heads on the injectors. I also used a brass wire brush to clean them as prescribed by the manual. I didn't go any deeper than the heads, I'll keep the max protrusion in mind if I do. I checked the charge air system. Fuel pressure only at idle. It runs rough even at idle and high idle. Good thoughts, thanks.

I have a 2000 ch with an e tech 460 that recently blew a head gasket. Compression overcame the fire ring and cut through the fiber gasket. I replaced the gaskets under both heads and swapped heads front to rear. I measured the sleeve height from the deck and they all checked out. I decided to swap heads around in case it happened again, I would know if it were the heads or the sleeves. When it was all back together I started it and it runs rough, not quite a miss, but it shakes the truck a little. I would think it normal if it were a Cummins. Also it is very low on power and only builds 26 lbs boost at max. I suspect it is under fueling because pyrometer temps are much lower than usual, 850 on a hard pull, it smokes less than usual and the water temp runs cool as well. I changed fuel lines while it was apart. which caused me to suspect an air leak or blockage. I changed them again and checked my fuel pressure. I've cleaned the cam sensor and the rpm sensor thinking it may be a timing issue. I've been through the valve adjustment 3 times and it checks out each time. There are no codes coming up. I've also recently had oil samples tested and everything is in acceptable levels. I sent another today and am awaiting the results. Has anyone damaged an injector while cleaning it? Is this what it would act like? Thanks for reading my long post and any help will be greatly appreciated.

I had a similar problem on an etech truck. It turned out to be the main relay on the firewall. It is a large solenoid beside the wiper motor that powers the cab accessories including the computers.

I may run a fuel pressure gauge into the cab. It certainly could be a worn lift pump. Since it builds enough pressure at idle I have looked elsewhere. I know the drive gears had a tendency to spin on the pump shaft. That doesn't seem likely either, since the problem is so consistent and still has decent power and response. The ambient temp sensor is new. It was causing an error code so I went looking for it and couldn't find it. I traced the wires from the eecu and came up empty. I installed a new sensor and fixed the error. No change in boost and no more codes. It may not hold boost for long, the charge air cooler is old. I've had substantial leaks in other trucks and never lost that much boost. Usually egts go sky high. Thanks for the ideas, I'll keep working on it.

Yes. I built a tool with a wheel valve stem and gauge out of pvc pipe. I tested from the turbo to the intake manifold. I believe that even if it were leaking boost a 5+ pound loss would cause very poor fuel mileage, lots of smoke and high exhaust gas temps.

I tested the cooler and charge hoses for leaks but they are all fine. I also ran the truck on cruise with the exact same results. Is there any way to tell if the eecu is programed as a 460? It doesn't say any where in the readout from the dealer. The software version is 1MS320 if that helps.

Thanks for the suggestions and info! I'll run the cruise, if I can get it to work. Sounds like I definitely have a problem since it's not building any where close to 30 pounds. I'll update as I learn more. Thanks again.

Hello all and Happy Easter. I have a 2000 ch with an E tech 460. I recently acquired the truck and it's history is unknown. I have never run a truck with this motor before and was wondering what I should expect for boost pressure. It builds 25 lbs at the most. It pulls ok, but I would say it is a weak for a 460hp motor. I replaced the fuel pressure check valve and get 70 lbs fuel pressure at idle. There are no error codes from the eecu. I've run the overhead, but aside from a couple intakes that were too tight everything looked good. The motor sounds good and does not smoke, other than a small black puff when I shift and press the throttle hard. The exhaust temp will climb to near 1000 on a long pull but boost pressure never changes. Is this normal, or should I expect more? Thanks for your consideration!

Hopefully someone can help. I have a forward axle 2000 CH613 with an e-tech 460. It gives a 1-4 MID: 128PID: 171 FMI: Ambient temperature sensor: Current low or open circuit error. Sounds straight forward enough however, neither the dealership, nor I, can locate the sensor or harness. There are holes in the front cross member for it but no bracket. The mechanic said it must exist because it will intermittently flash 79 degrees on his computer. Also, when he unhooked his computer and I went to start the truck it took a great deal of cranking to start it and the throttle was very erratic. It got better as i drove back to the yard and I thought is was ok. I went to start it a couple days later and the same thing happened. any thoughts on either problem would be greatly appreciated.

Also, they are located in western Colorado.

I have a pair of springs off an early CL. I don't know what years they will fit. They are new take offs bought from a dealer. They have been sitting in the weather for some years, but could certainly still be used. I believe they are 14,000lb units and I bought them to replace the 20,000lb springs in my 07 cl. They are the wrong length for that truck but would fit my 95. They may fit newer trucks with lighter front ends, I don't know. Here are the dimensions; Overall length, measured from center of bushings, is 66.5 inches. 35 inches from center of front bushing to center of axle. $75 for the pair plus shipping. Not having luck uploading a pic. I'll try again later, or send upon request.