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Mark T

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Posts posted by Mark T

  1. ATF works if you don't mind having everything loosened up and pumped through the engine. If you're careful and change the oil and filter a couple times there's a slim chance.  Nothing is a quick fix other than rebuilding it.  With modern oils and a nice hot ignition ? it'll probably never happen again.

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  2. On 11/15/2020 at 7:31 PM, BAD DOG said:

    I haven’t been on here for a while . I missed seeing other dog’s weekly photos. Always wondered how he manages to so many girls in car pics without getting caught .  Seems like every time I look at some girl in a car she’s looking back I can never get photos in Lol ! 

    I don't think he's driving a Mack (?)   of coarse no girl's gonna look  (FYI  I like seeing the weekly photos too )

  3. Yes not sure why, but everything new ( clutch, transmission ) and gap was too big.  I used an Eaton two piece and a torque limiting ..... Worked fine.  I'm sure something was mismatched, I know I put a new Eaton 7 spring clutch in it as opposed to  the K+ for a 9 spring

  4. Air chisel with long bit, then a die grinder to cut through the stainless ring that's inside the brake.  If someone had two in there ?   you might need something to take up space. Remember  the more you turn the adjusting ring on the clutch cover the less holding force you have.

  5. On 7/23/2020 at 1:02 PM, doubleclutchinweasel said:

    The Mack compound boxes did have some of the linkage exposed on top of the transmission.  See the link, below.  One of the pics shows the top pretty well.  The linkage from the compound shifter to the rear (compound) box are exposed.  So, yes, someone may have used a pry bar to move linkage if there was a problem with the shift linkage.

     

     

    I forgot all about that

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  6. There's several variations of clutches. Basically a 14 inch goes in a flywheel with a (pot) like you have and a fifteen and a half inch goes on a (flat) flywheel .  there's also some different types of locking of the adjustment. Some with the two bolts holding it to the cover are spring loaded and lock in place after turning (like yours) others have the same thing except they're not spring loaded and have a strap that is hexed to go around the adjusting bolt to lock it. then some have an actual locking tab that bolts to the cover and goes between the lugs on the ring in the cover ( there's no picture of one of those here )  Your's ???  I'd be  really surprised if the ring in the cover will turn.  You'll push that adjuster in and it will turn.....but really not turn the ring inside the cover. Remember, this can only be turned if the clutch is disengaged. ( like if it was together, someone would have to hold the clutch in while you turned the adjustment)  In general, any 14 inch clutch will work.  differences are holding force and input shaft size ( inch and 3/4 or 2 inch )  You're gonna go nuts with the clutch you have. Try and find a better one that wasn't as worn out as the one in the pictures. 

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  7. That clutch is shot.  The pressure plate may even be shot as well ( like already adjusted to it's limit )  I once helped a guy who replaced a clutch cable in one of those and installed it backwards. The original Mack one goes farther from one direction than from the other. As far as the clutch in the truck, the space between the bearing and the clutch brake  should be around a half inch and not much more. this is done by turning the adjustment on the pressure plate and to do that requires holding the clutch disengaged so it will turn.  Be aware the more it's adjusted (turned) the less holding force the clutch will have.  Looks like maybe time to see about finding a different clutch assembly 

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