steeler

Not sure of the exact spec, but should be higher. What hp mp8 is it? Can you hear any squealing noises or anything abnormal?

Hey guys I've got a 2015 lei that is throwing a p20de00 after treatment fuel pressure sensor circuit range/performance fault.

I've run through the diagnostics with tech tool with exception of the final test because I don't have the special tool to do it, but everything checks good. 

The afp runs about the same as engine pressure when the shutoff valve activates, then runs about 45 lbs deactivated. Engine fuel pressure is steady at about 58-60.

Any ideas?

Forgot to add that I replaced the doser module. 

Yup your fan drive is bad then. Check into the Horton 2 speed drives for a replacement unless yours already has it. It will extend the life of your next one 

Ok cool thanks fjh.

What size clear hose is it?

How do you guys hook up your clear line to the head while checking cups? Do you buy the banjo fittings and just keep a rig for testing?

Depends what type of fan drive you have. I would say you probably have a Horton that locks the fan when there is no air to it. If I have one that isn't kicking in properly for me the easiest way to test the fan itself is to remove the air line that goes to the fan drive. That will lock it in and you shouldn't be able to spin the fan.

If it's a fan drive that locks on with air pressure to it, then I take the air line off and shoot air to the fan manually and see if it locks.

I would suspect the fan drive is probably the culprit.

Can anyone tell me where this module is located on a 2016 gu713?

Sorry guys Never mind I found it hiding under the radio.

I'll tell you why they won't do anything other than a reman. For one, they don't like the idea of someone "bringing in their own steak" to have them cook it for you. They get no profit in parts that way, just labor.

2nd, and I'm speaking from experience here is that there is almost always (for my shop anyway) issues with this or that being different/not working with your application. It can become a huge pain in the rear, especially after they give you a quote and end up 20 hrs over what they told you it would cost.

Our shop went through it not long ago with an mp7. Tried to install engine only to find out there are a zillion different flywheel housings for the mp. And the one on the original engine was no good.

We won't do it anymore, only Mack remans. Every time we install a customer supplied used engine we lose our butts.

Hmm. Strange. I was looking up info on a service bulletin and was one click away from ordering impact. Maybe they changed something Idk. 

Our shop is a "service partner" for Mack. Our dealer isn't helpful with it. We mentioned getting impact thru them but he keeps saying we don't really need it. Wrong. We need it badly. You would think us spending 30k a month in parts with them that they would be a little more helpful.

A few months ago I was on Macks website and saw a part number for Impact. I can't seem to find out now. My shop would like to get it for service and parts info. Anybody know the part number?

Malfunction light on? Does it fire right back up?

Our shop has a tool to cap off one side of the cooler and put pressure on the other, but you can idle the engine up to around 1500 and spray around it with soapy water and detect leaks. Do that at hose connections, intake manifold gaskets, everywhere. And don't forget the air compressor intake hoses and pipe, they are boosted as well.

Problem solved, I think. Ended up unplugging the boost sensor and it went ahead and did it's thing. Plugged it back in and its working perfect now. The boost reading was a little wacky, but now it's fine. Must've had a bad connection there. Thanks Turckster.

Hey guys I'm getting a drv solenoid fault when I try a service regen. It will throw the code after only about 5 seconds after it starts the regen.

It has a new drv solenoid and air line. I've removed the valve by the turbo and it functions perfect with the test on vcads.

The fault is 128 ppid330 fmi7.

Can anyone give me a suggestion?

To be honest, I hope they are right. Lol. If the engine has to come out, then I won't have to mess with it. I've already got several big jobs on my plate and I can't think of a job I hate more than those idler gears!

Hey guys I've got an mp7 that was towed into my shop from afar with a loose idler gear that has done the usual chewing up of the flywheel housing. The shop that it came from told the customer there was so much metal in the engine that the engine had to be replaced.

My question is, at what point would that be need necessary? I've done one of these before but I haven't heard of anybody replacing the engine for this problem.

I've had a bazillion trucks with the 8-9, never had one with it active yet. Is it active? If not, I would ignore it and go after the 6. I was thinking that with an active 8-9 the engine will not run, but not certain about that here sitting at home and not at the shop.

As far as the 6, check the wires close to the unit pump for bare spots. Could also be a failed pump.

You might be right, maybe that was it, they went to 2 springs instead of 1.

It's been awhile since I've rebuilt one with the update kit, but it seems like I remember the 2 springs were updated with just a single spring. Maybe the one housing has been rebuilt but not the other? It's also possible that my memory sucks and I'm wrong.

Wow. 76 hrs? 36 hours?

What are you guys that work in a shop charging for a cam? We charge 24 hrs in a CV.

Hate to drag up an old thread but this was a first for me. After changing out the VEB solenoid on an mp7 the other day, had the same start then die issue. After reading this thread I swapped the old solenoid back in and she runs fine.

So apparently bad VEB's right out of the box appears common.

You'll need diagnostic software for that.

I've got some terminal tools, maybe it's my bad eyesight, but I can't see how to unlock them.

I have a couple bad terminals in the ECU plug on an AI engine, how the Heck do  you get them out?