Jump to content

steeler

Bulldog
  • Posts

    317
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by steeler

  1. Strikeout with the 7th injector. No change. 

    But I noticed while the engine was running the egr mass flow serious occasionally jump. It didn't look right with the valve commanded at 0%. I got digging and found where somebody had spliced a new connector on the egr diff pressure sensor, I checked continuity to the ecu abs found they had 2 wires spliced backwards! I have high hopes that'll fix it. 

    • Like 1
  2. On 10/31/2025 at 11:25 AM, fjh said:

    I'm happy to see you are not a parts cannon supporter my self! I wonder if maybe  the turbo is is not sticking! if it can't go full stroke it maybe seeing there is not enough air to function correctly! ??maybe pull the servo and check the sweep and lever for being sticky!

    Turbo is new, they did that along with injectors and cam. Ahi has not been replaced, but it's opening and passing the test in tech tool like it should. For some reason the ecu just isn't telling it to start dosing during regen. 

    Also I should add that the soot level will skyrocket during regen. If you call what is doing a regen... If I reset soot level, it'll go from 19% to 160 in about 30 minutes. No engine smoke, runs fine until it derate fire high soot. Filter has been pulled and replaced 3 times by customer during this diagnostic nightmare and it's clean. So, from what I'm seeing, it's not really sooting up, it just thinks it is. Dpf diff pressure looks good at....    . 12 during regen. 

    I'm trying not to parts cannon. The customer has already launched a boat load at it with no luck lol. 

     

     

  3. 2 hours ago, fjh said:

    I wonder if the previous part putteroners did relearn data resets ! just thouing that out there!

    Yeah that was my first thought. I reset everything with no luck. Swapped ecu with a different truck, still nothing. Getting ready to swap acm and try that! 

  4. 2021 mp8. The truck came to us for not completing a regen. Using tech tool I start the regen but it never commands the hi to start dosing. Engine idles up, exhaust temps look good in the 550's and I can see the ahi module go thru it's checks.. Then it just sits there. Never starts dosing. 

    Before it came to us it had new injectors, turbo, manifold, and the entire 1 box is new.. 

    I'm getting, or maybe I already am.. Stumped! 

  5. I had a customer that had put new injectors in a epa 10 mp7, but somehow put epa 10 mp8 injectors in it. It came to me because it ran HORRIBLE! In my case the mp7 did not like mp8 injectors in it at all! I had no knowledge that they had even put new injectors in it. Chased that one for a couple days before I discovered the problem. 

    So... They might not have been mp8 injectors, but they definitely could've been the wrong mp7 ones lol! 

    • Like 1
    • Like 1
  6. 13 minutes ago, fjh said:

    Do even replace the Valve cover gasket? 600 bucks for two wine corks Pretty pricey bandaid! For a mistake on the engineering side! Something that should have been a recall! Much like the bull gear feasco! If it doesn’t break before warranty is up don’t fix it!Volvo trash!

    Agreed! That 600 is the delete kit, and the updated rail pressure sensor and rear injector harness. If the sensor and harness have already been updated, then probably way less than 600.

  7. Yeah I do a lot of these deletes. I'm not sure what the parts cost, but it's a really easy fix other than updating the software for the accessory kit. 3k sounds high! 

    Edited to add... I had to check to see what we charge for the delete. About $1000. Dang maybe we are too cheap! Parts are less than 600 bucks, and the job only takes a couple hrs max. 

  8. 3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

    Well, in my limited knowledge every Eaton i have serviced that was after 1990 got 50-W synthetic oil... 

    Same here. We have customers that run 80 90 without issues in them, but unless the customer requests otherwise, we fill all rebuilds with 50w synthetic. 

    • Like 1
  9. 6 hours ago, jimbo40 said:

    There was no rust.  Instead of just  removing the cover, can I pull the cylinder off too and try to manipulate that piston manually to see if it is just stuck?

    You probably won't have much luck locking the range cylinder in by hand. It takes a decent amount of pressure. But if your problem isn't with the cylinder/stuck piston, then you'll be removing the auxiliary section anyway. Assuming it isn't an air pressure problem. 

    • Like 2
  10. The larger piston is your range cylinder, smaller is reduction. In high range the large piston will be pushed towards the front of the transmission, to the rear for low. Like Joey said, you can remove that whole range housing by removing the air lines, 5 bolts and 2 nuts on the pistons. The shift forks will stay in the transmission and won't go anywhere. 

    They make a kit with gaskets and o rings to service the housing. 

    • Like 1
  11. Was there any gunk/rust in that deep reduction cylinder? I've seen many that are rusted up and not used often, then when they get used they stick and have your exact issue... I've built 100's of 8ll's. I could almost do one blindfolded lol. No joke

    • Like 1
    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...