steeler

Sounds like fuel pump failure symptoms, as fjh said, check fuel pressure first.

20 hours ago, fjh said:

The raising of the engine works well. And saves time and take broken turbo bolts out of the equation.

Interesting. So are we talking flopping the fan blade forward away from the fan drive, or removing coolant tank, fan ring and fan?

Only time I've run into this problem was after the customer had replaced the fuel filter head and put the check valve fitting in the wrong port. 

This crap is just ridiculous. In my case, I spent probably 4 hours diagnosing, checking, rechecking, because a freaking brand new fuel line wasn't manufactured properly. Plus the time to change it, which is a bit of a pain in the ass on a nasty leu garbage truck. And that's time you really aren't getting paid for.

9 minutes ago, fjh said:

Yes But Out THE box? Sorry  But I don't believe ,I /we should have to take a" new" out of the box valve apart to make the son of a bitch work!

Just sayin!

Agree!

11 hours ago, fjh said:

Yup the army has lots! They don't care if Our Houses Burn down thou Fire departments aren"t exempt from This stuff!  😡

Oh ya, I could see a fire truck on the way to a fire then going into a 5mph def derate!

Yes, quality control leaves a lot to be desired these days it seems! 

Update......found the problem. The fuel line that goes from filter head to engine had a brass T fitting in it with a small line running to the after treatment fuel pump. I replaced the line with a new one and they didn't drill all the way thru the fitting. Parts defect. Sure is aggravating!

I've got a 2011 mp7 that we replaced the engine with a reman due to gear train failure. Trying to start the engine for the first time and I'm getting no fuel to the head. Weird thing is I've got 97 pounds of fuel pressure, engine will start, stumble around on maybe 3 cylinders then die.

Now if I pump the hand primer, fuel will flow backwards, into the head from the front, nothing going in from the rear.

All the fuel lines are routed correctly. Could a stuck check valve cause this? I know there are several in the filter head.

I've talked to a few owners that have done it and are happy.

There are downsides to it though. For example I just finished working on a KW with a Paccar engine that was deleted. Guy had taken it to a dealer who refused to work on it because it was deleted. Turned out the ecm was fried. We got him a new ecm, but our local dealer would obviously only program it with the factory program. This guy is from out of town, and the company that deleted it for him is 1200 miles away, and out of business.

So, he will have to find somebody to put his delete software back in it. In the meantime though, his truck will progressively derate. 

6 hours ago, mackr1989 said:

terminology was wrong when they were saying the synchros were bad. the clutches were worn amongst other things. $5200 was the cost of the reman.

Damn. You don't see sliding clutches worn out in a Mack trans very often. They can take a lot of abuse and still function just fine. Unless someone was VERY abusive to it, or whoever looked at it doesn't have much experience diagnosing them.

No problem. Glad you fixed it!

12 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

FMI 3 or 5 could be the harness end as Steeler said . FMI 7  with miss or running rough could be oil control valve stuck open or stuck engine brake plunger on rocker arm 

Good catch. I should have said fmi 3 or 5. Not 7. Thanks.

Just curious, how much did you pay for that reman? If your problem was the syncro, that could have been done much cheaper.

I don't know what idiot told you that you had 6 syncros in there, but stay away from that guy.

What is the fmi on that code? 5 or 7? Could be that it needs the new style pins in the harness.

On the engine

I just pulled the rocker back loose and switched 4 and 5 plungers. Everything looks perfect now. I don't know why that plunger doesn't like being in number 4, but it all adjusted up just fine now.

After an injector cup job, while adjusting valves, the plunger on #5 exhaust valve is sticking out a little more than the others. All others adjusted fine, but#5 has a much thinner shim under it, like someone had this issue last time.

If I push down on the rocker arm, three is a little spring loaded feel to it, not anymore than the others had. Any reason this plunger is sticking out further?

Pin number 9 at ecu connector j1(the top one) is your ground signal to turn fan off. Before you start splicing, check that wire for continuity to the fan solenoid. 

Yes, if you aren't getting the ground from ecu, I ran a new wire from eco to fan solenoid. My daughter was sick this morning so I stayed home today, but I'll get the info in the morning.

You should have a constant 12v at one wire of the fan solenoid, the other wire is a ground signal from the ecu to disengage the fan. It could be as simple as a blown fuse (don't quote me but #41 I think?) Or could be a break in either the hot wire or ground. 

I've seen many that were broken wires, rather than chase the mess around and on top of the transmission, I just rewired, bypassing part of the harness.

I don't have a schematic with me right now, but can give you pin numbers Monday if you still need them.

Mine does not have the separate pump for after treatment, but I found the problem. The 7th injector was plugged up. Mack needs to fix some issues with the guided diagnostics in tech tool, it never mentioned anything about that as a possibility for the code I had. Oh well all good now. Thanks.

Ok hooked shop air to the shutoff valve, that didn't change anything. So if my test vehicle has after treatment fuel pressure of 90, with engine fuel pressure at 60, what "ups" that pressure? I thought after treatment fuel pressure would be equal to engine fuel pressure?

13 hours ago, turckster said:

Aftertreatment fuel psi should be what.... 90ish psi? What test is it that you can not perform that requires a special tool?

 

I was wrong on that test, all it was was checking the fuel pressure to the shutoff valve, which is the same as the engine pressure. That was the last test, so it just told me "no fault found". 

I hooked up another truck of the same year just to compare pressures. That one had an after treatment fuel pressure of 90 psi when the shutoff valve opens, then dropped to zero with the valve closed. Mine stays at about 45 with the valve closed. I'm going to run regulated shop air to the shutoff valve at 32 psi just to see if anything changes.

Do you still have active dpf codes? Could be derated causing your low power?