steeler

You'll have to have the injector cup tools. I don't have the part numbers handy, but I can get them tomorrow.

You can order the tools from your dealer or find them online, they aren't cheap though.

10k? To do what?

30 minutes ago, fjh said:

It sure sounds like cups or bad injector 

cumbustion in the fuel gallery.

Yup, sounds like the classic cup problem. There is a fuel regulator fitting in the head, the mp7 one is on top of the head, front drivers side. Not sure about the mp8 location, but I doubt that will be your problem.

With the input shaft removed, the gear will flop around quite a bit in the shaft, once it's installed back in the trans, the countershaft gears will center it up. If that makes sense.

I couldn't watch the video on my phone.

Ok good, at least they can't pin a rocker problem on you. So you just bolted your Jake onto it then and readjusted valves?

Not to get off track but I put a basic in last year, fired it up, thump thump instantly. One of the cam rollers had a flat spot. That's when I learned Mack doesn't replace all of the lifters, they just inspect and reuse. No telling what your gonna get anymore I guess.

Dakota, I don't know what kind of relationship you have with your dealer, but there are plenty that will do everything they can to pin it on you somehow. I'm with fjh, maybe let them take a look. 

A little movement in the input shaft is normal, as is the caked up gunk inside the gear.

Did the truck still pull itself, just chatter?

Yeah by the sound of ardakota's description, it sure sounds like a valve train issue. Might be difficult to isolate which cylinder if it only does it for a brief time at idle.

I had one years ago that had a similar problem, it was the Jake, even turned off. We pulled the Jake housings off and ran it, problem disappeared.

In order to do that you would need shorter bolts obviously for the rockers. If it were me, that's the route I would take just to eliminate a Jake problem first.

Does it have a Jake?

I wasn't suggesting a patch job, just a temporary test rig. Injectors will only set a code if something is wrong with the circuit, so it is possible you could have an injector problem without a code.

Any smoke? Hard to say without hearing it. First thoughts are possibly bad unit pump, engine brake sticking.

Does it sounds like just a fuel miss, or a valve train miss? I know it can be hard to tell without a trained ear.

I made an aluminum plate to block off the egr pipe at the mixer. You could do that and run it to eliminate a leaking the valve.

Yeah, I was starting to stress over this one. Nothing like tossing a few grand in parts and then explaining to the customer why it's still not fixed.

Luckily I only had roughly 10 hrs in it before I found the problem.

Thanks a bunch!

Ok found the problem. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I started pulling injectors looking for a cracked tip.  The injectors looked awful new so we ran the part number and someone has put mp8 injectors in it. This truck runs all over the country as part of a fleet and rarely had the same driver in it so I guess that's why the company didn't put 2 and 2 together when the smoking started.

So now I'm putting a cup and injector kit in it.

A diesel will run on ether as long as it has compression. Running on its own requires fuel to be injected at the right time.

Ok removed egr pipe and fabricated a plate to block intake pipe. Still dumping the smoke but at least I've eliminated the egr valve.

No problem!

I know this is old, but check your air compressor. Remove intake pipe from compressor and blow shop air in it with engine oil dipstick removed. See if you are getting air into crankcase. I've seen more than a few compressors with a busted piston do this.

ETA....Didn't notice this is an mp engine. Might not apply in your case if the compressor intake is plumbed  into air cleaner pipe, and not boosted air.

Any malfunction light? May have blown ecu or vcu fuse.

If you have good fuel from injector lines at cylinder head, it should run unless there is an electrical issue.

Adjust the intake valves and injectors on camshaft markings 1-6.

Adjust exhaust valves on camshaft markings with a "v" before the number.

Injectors are adjusted zero lash plus 4 flats.

As 689 said, the old tools with the tap and puller is the only way you're going to get that out. Unless your luck is like mine.

I broke one off in a d12 because I got lazy and didn't get it tapped all the way through. When I tried to tap it the rest of the way, it fell into the cylinder. Had to pull the head.

Hi all, hoping for a little advise here.

I'm working on an mp7 with excessive black smoke. Good power, runs fine, no boost leaks, just loads of black smoke under acceleration. Even stomping it in neutral will get a good puff of smoke.

No dtcs. I've checked egr valve movement with vcads, compared boost, mass air readings to another truck of same engine. All readings are pretty much the same.

It acts as if the egr valve is leaking/not closing all the way but I was hoping for another opinion or 2. I sure wish there was a way to block the egr off to verify before I go ripping her apart.

Something to think about, Remack basics don't come with injectors in them. So you could have the originals still in there if they weren't replaced with the engine.

Getting ready to tackle a leaky flywheel housing. Are there any worries of creating another leak behind the gear plate? Also I'm assuming the starter, pan, air comp, ps pump, and upper gear cover need to be removed as well?

I've had training on this engine but Damn it's been awhile!