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Porch Pup
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About RC51

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    Old Iron Expert

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  1. I saw this truck last fall at a place where we were looking at other trucks.Upon return the other day,it was still there and he kind of really wants to move it.It is in fantastic shape for it's year.I figured since junk is high again I would make some sort of deal,we did.It is a 1959 G73,has an NH-220 and a TRT7220 and a top loading double reduction rear.Don't know what I am going to do with it,but it would make a good home for that Model 20 Jake I have had stashed all these years.
  2. Try Marvin S. Tell Co. in Trafford,Pa.They are about the best of the remaining "ML",or any old Lipe clutch shops around.Al
  3. Looks like a B-67,a diesel.There is no VIN tag inside the passenger side door?The VIN number will be on the frame on the R.H. side,between the front spring's rear hangar and the air line to the brake.Those used 4-6 volt batteries,2 in each side in series.
  4. If it is what I'm thinking of...there is an offset spacer,that raises the TTF up a bit to clear the covers,he needs that.The Jacobs #is:03832.There used to be an air to air adapter kit,to supplant the standard engine brake kit,to install on a 676 or similar,the #is:010174,it will have everything he needs,if it still is available,there are breather relocation parts needed also.
  5. 1-5/8" or 1-7/8" pin? 2" pins are later,Maxidyne era.You can call Jimmy down at Lawrence Crankshaft,not far from you.Too bad you are a few years too late.When I moved to my new place,I had a set of pistons to an early 205hp 673T,the old 3/4"single corner stud 673P block style.I chucked them,figuring anyone who needed that type of work and ran the truck for a living would repower it to a Later 673C or a Maxi.
  6. If he can do it for $250,it's a bargain.Ask him some questions,because $5-800 is the ballpark,the lower end of the scale for single plate model.The kits with the wear parts is $100,to grind the pressure plate is at least $35,plus labor,it has to be disassembled,cleaned,glass bead blasted,etc.That is only for the cover,the disc I pay to have done,I don't have the materials or a riveting machine.The place where you get the kits is in Trafford,Pa,they come in a 6" square box,smothered in gun grease and the box is dipped in cosmoline.They must be WW2 surplus.I don't think it is worth it for you to ship it to me to do.Oh,when you pull the shims to adjust it,try not to destroy them,save them,you need them in 6's,and they don't make them anymore.Most of the time I find those like the old Mack CA4106 clutch....Pretty bulletproof..if they don't show signs of wear,scoring or heat,glaze,etc,just change the disc,re-shim them,put them back in,[ALWAYS PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR FLYWHEEL DEPTH!!!]it is an antique...Too bad you have a 140 Waukesha,because I believe the 145 series towards the end used a more up to date clutch.Al
  7. Is it a Lipe-Rollway ML type clutch with the big single coil sping under the collar.That's usually what's on a Waukesha,at least in a Walter.I have access to a company that has what few kits that are left for them.I do them here in the shop,when the parts are used up,there will never be more,the tooling has been destroyed when Lipe was sold.
  8. Advertise those on a military vehicle site,they used those in some 5 tonners.I needed one 5 years ago for export.Al
  9. 211 hp and 602 lbft@1,350. That's from a Mack manual of the era.There were a few other ratings also.
  10. Exact numbers,I don't know,but here in the northeast they were popular with cities and townships and some private local operators.The 400 series in all it's forms[R,U,DM,MB]were Macks "price" truck to help compete with I.H.,Ford and GMC thier weight class.Quite common to see an R/DM 400 with a 29K single rear,and double[X] frame rails,to find one as nice as the example shown is a rare one.Most town trucks around here spread salt in winter and the frames are rusted and swelled.Mack seems to have let that lower end municipal market go when the Mid-Liner came in,only to sell a gazillion Mid-Liners to leasing fleets.
  11. Those were popular with municipalities,late 1960's -'70's.The 413 pretty much replaced the venerable 402 flathead.Those had TR-77 series behind them a lot and quite frequently the old 6 speed Allison MT,and probably Spicer 5 speeds.The R-400 came with a lot of different engine options,one's I've seen come through the shop are,the 465 Mack diesel,the Scania 475 in turbo and natural,Cummins V-555,3208 Cat
  12. The Parrish frame division of Spicer Corp. has stamped rails for Mack and many other truck builders for years.
  13. I know a lot of Mack diehards will laugh at this,because of the reputation of the DS-8[475].If ever a Swedish company should have bought Mack,it should have been Scania.Scania and Mack have had dealings and technology sharing since the late 1940's.The Thermodyne diesel combustion chamber design and other transmission and drivetrain technology came from Scania,a lot of it exchanged for Mack's expertise in transit bus design[C series,etc].Scania trucks,even though they didn't sell well here,most likely because a limited dealer network,crazy parts prices and poor marketing,would have sold well through select Mack distributors.I own a P-112H,it is a heavy spec truck,comfortable,so comfortable that the US trucks are just starting to catch up 20 years later,and the smoothest transmission you ever shifted.The New York and New Jersey guys on here will know where I'm coming from,they are popular there,even today.Al
  14. RC51


    Yes and no.The 1974 used a cable driven tach.I assume by "new style" you mean electronic.To do that there are 3 possible ways.First,find a 3/4"-16 hole if there is one[doubt it] and screw in the proximity[tach] sensor.Second,get a signal generator and drive it from the mechanical cable drive[those are old school C.O.E. tach drives,and need an instrument calibrated to it,unless you have a programmable tach.Third,use a programmable tach and run it from the "R" terminal on a Delco alternator.Figure pulley drive ratio to get RPM of alternator,multiply by number of poles in alternator gives you pulses per minute,calibrate tach to it.Just use a cable driven one.Al
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