R.E.D

I remember my pops had a ch with the stiffest clutch ever.. ended up being wrong cable, I think it was too long.

Not mine .local marketplace.

It's my buddy's truck ..I haven't spoken to him since last post.ill keep y'all informed 

Do you happen to have the part number of the fitting with the clear window in it? In order to see if there's any air in the fuel?

He says it's felt 1100 rpm and under the most 

I'm guessing at some point he's going to have to do that. Forgot to mention he also replaced the boost sensor.

So I'm posting this for my buddy. He has a slight engine Miss that's been driving him crazy. 98 E-Tech 460. Engine Miss comes and goes. In the past month he has replaced all eups, injectors, and both timing sensors. He also ran the overhead. Idle fuel pressure is around 50 to 60 PSI. Goes up to 70 Max revs. He's going to do the fuel pressure test under load.

Is there a clear fitting that can be put in line in the fuel lines to determine fuel aeration? I know they have some for some Cummins engines, just wondering if anyone has the part number.

No blink codes active, he did have some before but they were for the eups which have been replaced.

Thank you for your help guys

Red

Facebook Marketplace, not mine.

In my opinion, you should replace the u bolts and torque them to proper specs.

I think JoeH is right, a transverse torque arm is needed for this application.

You can add one to the front diff, the torque arm bracket has a circular hole in order for the drive shaft to pass through it.

Most front diffs aren't threaded for this ,therefore you would need to remove it and have a machine shop drill and tap for you.I had this done on my rd that has 38k Camelback suspension with rubber bushings and did not come with the transverse torque arm.Granted I did it to the back diff but it would be the same procedure.

They made cl733 (Cummins engine) at least up to 07 . There is a few for sale on truck paper right now.

What model mack? Best would be a cl,it has the legroom for a Detroit..they made them with Detroits (cl743) back in the 90s ,but like I've said before they are rarer than an honest politician .

Use some grease or Vaseline to make sure  the crush washer sticks to the injector tip .Torque lines to appropriate torque specs , if you're replacing them it should be with the new single nut style.While your there , wouldn't be a bad idea to check overhead.Just my .02 ¢ .

Red

The vmac 3 service manual is available for downloads from mack e media for free.Part number 8-211.

I believe 2180 which is the older model has a bit more overdrive.71 instead of .73 of the t318..so you would be loosing a tiny bit of top speed..also I think the older model trans ptos will not work on the t318 .. hopefully someone will chime in and  verify this .

Red

If you have these two plugs (see picture  ) then it's probably a filter someone added ,as these two plugs are the mount for the factory filter(coolant conditioner)

Is coolant filter an add on type?.. reason I ask is because these engines rarely came with the factory filter because they were meant to use bulldog extended life coolant.

My 10 speed t310m had a similar issue, shift fork was very worn also in conjunction with worn synchro gear ...I took the rear cover off and welded the shift fork up and grinded it down to size..this quick fix got me through the busy summer..then rebuilt the whole transmission..like FJH mentioned,the rear part can be removed but will need a specialty bracket to hold the 3 shafts in place...if truck is new to you ,I would remove transmission completely and have it gone through....main boxes are kinda bulletproof, synchros are the Achilles heels.

Just my .02 cents

RED

Could've been that our drivers were banging the gears in ,since the super 10 were kinda slow to rpm drop in the next gear...

My pops had 2 chs with super 10, they were tandem dump trucks.shift forks would brake like clockwork every year.It was with different drivers too..we ended up just swapping them to 9 speeds.... problem solved 

On 6/27/2023 at 10:59 PM, Mark22300 said:

well my injector codes and issues went away now im getting a intermittent 4-5 code and the truck wont build more then 18psi of boost when that code shows up. typically it'll come on the most when im hauling a heavy load. exactly when you need you boost lol. any ideas?

i also have a valve or something that wont want to purge and will just piss air until it finally purges and goes away but i don't think its related as it never drops the air pressure on my gauges. i don't believe its the air dryer because i just replaced it but that exactly what it sounds like when it finally purges after pissing air. 

I had this issue...and it's the air dryer constantly blowing air out.. remember air compressor is feed clean boosted air from your intake manifold....my would purge and would not build boost...all the sudden it would purge and boost would shoot back up....I'm not saying your 4-5 code isn't also causing issues,but definitely take a look at you air dryer....this low boost condition causes  really high egt and if you don't have a pyro ,you could cause damage to your engine.

Just my .02 cents 

RED

On 5/24/2023 at 2:03 PM, Joey Mack said:

I bet It shot out, because you took both of the EUP bolts out, rather than using one of them to slowly raise the EUP. The thin metal clip doesn't hold the spring and plunger in place. The bottom cap does.  With the spring removed, the clip keeps the plunger in place.  The plunger is delicate, and is not to be held in bare hands.. 

Agreed..I usually back out the eup hold down bolts a couple turns.then pry on the corner of the eup to break the seat of the orings..if under pressure from the cam lobe , they eup will lift without much effort...then I rotate the engine to allow the spring to decompress..Joey you're correct..the plunger is made to precise tolerances.and should be removed from eup in a clean environment...when I took all my eups to get tested..the injection shop tech told me that the slightest spec of debris could cause the plunger to bind.

On 5/21/2023 at 10:29 AM, Mark22300 said:

Well i got around to pulling the EUP and sweet baby Jesus was looking down upon me and extended a miracle, roller is in good shape cam is fine. The EUP on the other hand blew apart as you see in the photo when i popped it out of its hole, the gold plunger seems to have gotten past the retaining clip and was possibly sitting loose in the hole or maybe just not assembled properly? Im not sure if that was the cause of the issues or if that happened due to the sudden release of it being under the pressure of the spring that aloud the plunger to get past the retaining clip, there's also a wear mark in the golden coating as seen in the last photo. possibly a contributing factor to the infrequent 8-4 code. 

I ordered a new EUP from https://mydieselpro.com/ the guy I talked to was very helpful and was under half the price Mack wanted for one. ill toss the new one in and hopefully that fixes that. 

If you ever do this job again, it is best to rotate the engine so the cam lobe it's not pushing on the eup spring. If the eup would have been good, it could have gotten damaged from flying out of that hole... Same for  procedure for installation.. and if by any chance you have ceramic eup rollers , don't drop them in and let them hit the cam.

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

Dammit R.E.D.  You did it again.. !!  Great info..   I got my books from Mack after I went to Mack schools..  I'm glad you posted the 'Free' option..  jojo

I've gotten all of mine from eBay, I keep em in a several ring binders , which I can take to the yard and scroll through when my memory needs refreshing..the electronic copies of stuff I have ,I just print out the pages of what I will be working on that day.

20 hours ago, Mark22300 said:

This is the alignment dowel correct? there is a allen head plug right beside it. any one know what service manual i need for this engine (2002 E7 460P)? id love to have some break downs and repair guides for it

Go to the mack e media site..on the search box input the part number of the repair manual that Joey showed on his picture (5-106).it's gonna take you to another screen where it tells you that it's 30$...click on the part number again , which is underlined..then it will take you to another screen which lets you view the file for free.Download it to your phone or PC in PDF format.This works for many manuals .Look on eBay for the manual and once you find the part number go to mack e media and see if it can be downloaded for free.Cant beat free when starting out !😂 

Red