frantzevan

Please let me know if you can allocate the rebuild kit #. I ordered a standard o ring kit plastic washers and a snap ring kit to ensure I have a large selection on hand. But would prefer to know I have all I need with a kit can piece it together. Thanks in advance!

Thank you for the help and info… it’s much appreciated!

I rebuilt the the shifter knob in the cab and I seem to be having the same issue. Air is leaking out of the exhaust line when in hi range

Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I am having the exact same problem even after rebuilding shifter and replacing pressure regulator.

I am having issue with what u think is pressure. Replaced pressure regulator and both investor valves to no avail. I’m having trouble getting it to shift Into hi from drive. I have to hit it perfect or it won’t go. It used to catch the gear whenever the rpm’s dropped down. I believe it’s pressure related because my shift doesn’t snap like it used to when rotating between different positions. Im fearful to increase pressure and risk bending a shifting fork or worse.. I believe the regulator was set at 70 psi per Mack’s spec. Thank you in advance for any and all help,

Thank you, for the reply. I spoke with the older service tech at mack td and he said essentially the same thing. It was most likely caused by the main shift cylinder for the drive hi and neutral box leaking threw from a faulty o-ring.

Anyone with insight?

I’m having the same issue with the inversion valve mounted closest to the transmission. I just replaced it with a new valve and it is still blowing air out the bottom. Did you ever figure out what your issue was or can anyone else point me in the right direction? I’m at a loss right now. The only thing I can figure is the pressure reducing valve is failing and there’s to much pressure? The supply line for the inversion valve that is leaking is the yellow line that comes down from the transmission shifter.

Should I be concerned with putting larger injectors in a computerized pump. I would prefer to keep the gremlins out of this. Thanks for the quick response..

I just picked up a 99 Rd tri axle with a 400 and a 12spd. The motor seems weak even coming from my slightly modified 285 with a 6spd. I was wondering what aftermarket upgrades would net me the most power increase. I understand my turbo and injectors are maxed out from the factory standpoint. The 427 and 460 have the bigger turbo, injectors and the key way cam for timing. I've read positive things about the blixxton 200 modular but I feel maybe stage 2 or 2.5 injectors from Rochester diesel may be the best bang for my buck. The modular is 1400 and the injectors are 1k. I really don't have the extra funds to do both so I don't know which way to go. I was wondering if anyone else has done tuning on this particular setup. The truck seems to be running fine just needs to be running a little hotter. I've yet to put a load on it but empty I was seeing 23psi of boost.

No debris in the injector pump. Does anyone have an explanation for this??

Thanks for the quick responses!

It is a 2 valve but it has a dynatard for an engine brake.

I probably should have mentioned that this noise started shortly after switching to synthetic motor oil. Amsoil to be exact. I've had the oil in for 9 months now and I was down to the add mark on the fill stick. I didn't have any extra Amsoil and didn't want to pay the shipping on 1 gallon. So I grabbed a jug of rotella T-6 to stay with a synthetic blend. After adding the rotella the truck made the clanking noise upon start up but shortly after the noise disappeared. I heard it briefly at really low RPMS but for the most part has disappeared. Obviously I will be switching oil brands on my next change but I'm still curious as to why the Amsoil created this noise.