96bulldogpower

Brutus, what kind of 4 speed aux did he use? How much overdrive did it have? Anyone have any info on an atr box?? I've never heard of them

Well the whole intention is to have overdrive in order to gain more speed than the truck I already did the swap on. I have another 1996 CH613 that I plan to use for the swap. All of our trucks have 4.17 gear ratio and run tall 11r24.5 rubber. The one that currently has an ht740 only speeds up to 58 MPH. If it had atleast a .75 overdrive I'd be happy. What other transmission would be recommended for the swap? I understand all 6 speeds will be electronic. Oh by the way, the hd4560 I can get my hands on will come out of a 2002 Mack MR688 with E-7 etech. They seem to be durable.

Ok guys, I've had tons of help and support from y'all in the past and as some of y'all may already know... I do EVERY form of truck repair in-house for our small business. A few months ago we did an allison HT740 4 speed automatic swap in a 1991 e-7 CH613 that had a 9 speed Mack trans... The operation and all wiring was a success, the truck has been working ever since and we have noticed at our family owned dump truck business that this setup has given us great results not only in maintenance but in driver comfort as well! Now we're ready to tackle another swap! I'm looking at an HD4560 because it is 6 speed with double over drive and a low first gear. I know it is VERY electronic and requires a control module but we are comfortable taking on the challenge. What do y'all think about the swap? What are the biggest problems I would encounter? Anyone have any wiring diagrams to this trans?

Theakerstwo... Just the type of reply I wanted, I understand there are reasons why I should send my turbo off to the qualified professionals that reman turbos for a living. I also understand that I have never popped one of these open and it would be a learning experience. You're never too old to learn new stuff! Lol. I will consider your advice and tread lightly as I continue with the repair. If I spot anything out of the norm I will just call it all off and buy a reman unit from my supplier. I like coming back here for knowledge from you guys because y'all tell it like it is! Yeah yeah to be honest I have never messed with an e6!! Lol!

I'm not replacing either wheel or shaft. I'm only going in to do seals and bearings. The turbo is in it's early stages of wear so I caught it just in time before further damage happened. I'm simply going to give it a shot, if it doesn't work well I only lost $79 and a few hours of my time. If I have to end up replacing it with a reman unit then I still have a couple cores laying around the shop to use for exchange. Now like I said, we do alit of work in house for our trucks so a turbo doesn't really sound challenging but I don't mean to sound like a jackass know it all. So that's why I'm here for tips! haha. Thanks guys! Oh gearhead204. Where could I find one of these older manuals you talk about? Are you talking about like an old e-7 shop manual?

Hey guys I'm at it again in the shop with another sick bulldog. I'm working on a 96' CH613 with a E7... The problem this time around is quite simple, it has a worn turbo that's spitting oil into the exhaust. Now normally I would go out and just buy a rebuilt unit. But this time I want to do something different, the turbocharger is a BW schwitzer S3BL089 and in an effort to save money (hopefully) I have decided to rebuild the unit myself. http://bit.ly/1cHIkCA ^ I have bought that rebuild kit from ebay that seems to be as complete as I can get it, now does anyone have any tips or tricks before I tackle this task? It would be my first time in a turbocharger but definitely not my first time rebuilding other parts.

Also our truck runs 11r24.5 rubber... It was an interesting swap and definitely rare to see an older ch-613 set back axle tandem dump truck with an automatic transmission.... It runs absolutely great with the exception of it's lack of top speed... It has globs of power and torque to take off especially in those boggy construction sites. We use it for local work and I basically only sees road time when driving to the site itself. Typically 400 miles a week of highway time, the rest is all local. The ht740 is definitely a solid trans in my book. All in all with parts, oil, and beer, the cost to build was close to $3000..... Considering we did all the work by ourselves in our own shop

I did the swap on a 1991 Mack with an e-7 Mack 9-speed. The donor truck was a 1996 Mack mr model trash truck with a full mechanical e-7 the transmission was an allison ht-740. All that was needed from the donor was: transmission frame mounts, flexplate, complete transmission assembly, liquid heat exchanger, and the shifter control tower for the cab. The only problem we ran into was having to replace the air modulator for an electronic kind ($90) and installing a micro switch under the accelerator pedal to signal the transmission to up shift or downshift at 75% throttle.... The speedo has to be recalibrated using the jumper pins behind the cluster, and it is important that you get all the nuts and bolts involved in the donor truck. Remember, the driveshaft will have to be relenghtened and depending on your rear hear ratio you will lose top speed. Our truck now only reaches 59 miles per hour because it has 4.17 rear end gear ratio and the ht-740 trans does not have overdrive.

Ahhhh awesome. Well I did find out that I had low fluid in the system, thanks staxx. We finally got around to returning the timing to 5 degrees... NO MORE SMOKE!! It idles so smooth now and revs easy. I would like to thank everyone on this great forum for the help. The reason I feel the engine is sluggish is because I'm running a used ecm tuned for only 300 horsepower. The truck was originally a 350HP. But other than that all is good! Thanks staxx for adding me a new skill on troubleshooting Mack trucks!

Actually it is blink code 1-7. I miscounted

Ok it looks like I'm getting blink code 1-8..... Thanks for teaching me how to do this!

What is this? Craigslist? Lol. I'm kidding, but those primer pumps come as a whole part (cap and primer) if you don't feel like paying dealer cost you might be able to get the part number from it and look it up on finditparts.com. Sometimes you can get lucky with ebay too. Is it a bosch primer?

I did suspect the econovance to be an issue, that's why I took it off and cleaned it and removed the screens... It did idle better but the small amount of smoke remains... I will tell you that when the truck received the new engine I had to install a used ecu on it because the old one maded the engine run terrible and idled around 450rpm. Once I installed the new (used) ecu we had laying around in the shop the truck ran way better. However we still had a little smoke and upon revving the engine it tends to accelerate rough until it comes up to speed... I have already changed the engine position sensor on the governor of the injection pump with no effect. Could I have a bad econovance valve?! This thing is driving me crazy at this point.

Yes it does have the electronic malfunction and engine shut down light on in the dash. Unfortunately I have no way of reading the codes because my scanner doesn't do Macks.

Ok guys so now we have a 1996 Mack CH-613 with a e-7 (electronic injection pump) in the shop... It rolled in with a spun rod bearing and destroyed the crank and rod. We pulled the engine and installed a complete PAI rebuild kit, everything is new with the only exception of the oil pump, that checked out good. Basically we bolted everything back up, we set valve lash and retimed the injection pump to 7 degrees and fired it up.... The engine idled very rough and we let it run for about an hour, we then removed and cleaned the econovance valve which fixed the rough idle but it still smokes gray slightly. The valve cover calls for 5 degrees pump timing but could setting it to 7 degrees really cause the gray smoke? Also if you accelerate the engine it sounds rough and shakes until it comes up to speed. What do y'all recommend?! I'm stumped.

Thanks a lot!

Hey guys I'm working on a 1996 Mack CH-613 with a E-7/350, long story short it needs a crankshaft so I picked one up local in great shape it came out of a 1999 Mack CH with a E-Tech/350. It's a used take out but it's in good condition, I have swapped over the gear from the old crank to the new one and all the journals are the same thickness, dimensions are the same.... The problem, the crank is very similar but I just found out that the counter balances are thinner than on the old crank, overall the new crank is lighter weight. My question is, is the etech crank interchangeable with the older style e7?!

Bullhusk do you have any details about these three speed aux trannys? Do thry just bolt up to the tail of an allison or what's the deal? I am in desperate need of tips to make this swap work. But I'm very limited to the truck and tranny I have for the swap

Superdog, the truck is running 11r24.5 rubber and the gears are 4.17 (so I've been told by the dealer. This is very frustrating for me because I can see the trucl working great but not being able to go over 60mph is going to be a GREAT issue.

Gearheadgrrl, you're actually dead on with your theory. So since I will be using an electric 12 volt modulator that I got from allison how should I go about wiring it all up? I have heard that power and maneuverability becomes a problem so I am prepared to have my ecm fladhed for somewhere around 400 HP and added torque. The tranny can handle it. How much top speed will I lose? The max I can run on the truck is 75mph at about 1900rpm

Lol worst part about it is that he's got a really nice collection of pullout parts in his shop just gathering dust .... tisk tisk... anyone got any ideas for the swap?

Hey guys its been a few weeks since yall last helped me with a problem I was facing on a timing issue with a truck. Well now the boss handed me another dumb request. He wants me to pull a perfectly working 13-speed mack t2130 tranny from a 1996 CH613 with an e-7. I have most of the parts for the swap including: an allison HT740RS tranny, a heat exchanger to cool the oil, torque converter, bellhousing, spacers, mounts, and most of the hardware. I am aware that I will have to get the driveshaft refitted to it but I will take care of that later. My concern is that this transmission was pulled from a 1994 mack that also had an e-7 but the injection pump had an air actuator that was connected to an air throttle pedal! The reason for that was that the modulatoe for the transmission kick-down was air operated. I now have the correct electronic replacement modulator for the ht740 that I intend on using with our CH truck. Can anyone give me any insight on how to wire this thing? Any and all tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Did you replace the oil filters when you noticed this change? I doubt it but what if your old ones we're cligged? Your pressures sound normal

I run my 96 CH with the e7 all day and that's exactly what I see all day long. 15 psi sounds good. 30's at idle sounds way too high. It is however normal for it to be in its 30's at idle while cold. Or atleast that's how mine is and it has been nothing but reliable

Alright guys sorry for being a little late, it took me a while to get back to the truck but I finally got around to working on it. Staxx you were dead on with the drive gear on the cam that turns the injection pump.... its all points to the gear slipping right on the cam. I put the engine back in time with the injection pump and voila. It starts right up. I now realize the injection pump was never bad to begin with because all these problems started right after the cam job, and that we likely spent our money on a scam shop. Oh well. My problem now is that the cam we used was a PAI brand cam which I was told is the OEM replacement for mack. We had the old cam gears pressed on at our local mack onto the new cam. We thought it would work fine because the boys at mack said reusing the cam gears was ok so we just paid them for a new thrust bearing and keyway when they installed the gears. I'm wondering if there's a way to maybe drill in between the gear and the cam's face to thread and install a bolt and act as a key? Or maybe weld the gear right onto the cam? I'm not trying to be crude about the repair but in out of ideas!