96bulldogpower

I'm not replacing either wheel or shaft. I'm only going in to do seals and bearings. The turbo is in it's early stages of wear so I caught it just in time before further damage happened. I'm simply going to give it a shot, if it doesn't work well I only lost $79 and a few hours of my time. If I have to end up replacing it with a reman unit then I still have a couple cores laying around the shop to use for exchange. Now like I said, we do alit of work in house for our trucks so a turbo doesn't really sound challenging but I don't mean to sound like a jackass know it all. So that's why I'm here for tips! haha. Thanks guys! Oh gearhead204. Where could I find one of these older manuals you talk about? Are you talking about like an old e-7 shop manual?

Hey guys I'm at it again in the shop with another sick bulldog. I'm working on a 96' CH613 with a E7... The problem this time around is quite simple, it has a worn turbo that's spitting oil into the exhaust. Now normally I would go out and just buy a rebuilt unit. But this time I want to do something different, the turbocharger is a BW schwitzer S3BL089 and in an effort to save money (hopefully) I have decided to rebuild the unit myself. http://bit.ly/1cHIkCA ^ I have bought that rebuild kit from ebay that seems to be as complete as I can get it, now does anyone have any tips or tricks before I tackle this task? It would be my first time in a turbocharger but definitely not my first time rebuilding other parts.

Also our truck runs 11r24.5 rubber... It was an interesting swap and definitely rare to see an older ch-613 set back axle tandem dump truck with an automatic transmission.... It runs absolutely great with the exception of it's lack of top speed... It has globs of power and torque to take off especially in those boggy construction sites. We use it for local work and I basically only sees road time when driving to the site itself. Typically 400 miles a week of highway time, the rest is all local. The ht740 is definitely a solid trans in my book. All in all with parts, oil, and beer, the cost to build was close to $3000..... Considering we did all the work by ourselves in our own shop

I did the swap on a 1991 Mack with an e-7 Mack 9-speed. The donor truck was a 1996 Mack mr model trash truck with a full mechanical e-7 the transmission was an allison ht-740. All that was needed from the donor was: transmission frame mounts, flexplate, complete transmission assembly, liquid heat exchanger, and the shifter control tower for the cab. The only problem we ran into was having to replace the air modulator for an electronic kind ($90) and installing a micro switch under the accelerator pedal to signal the transmission to up shift or downshift at 75% throttle.... The speedo has to be recalibrated using the jumper pins behind the cluster, and it is important that you get all the nuts and bolts involved in the donor truck. Remember, the driveshaft will have to be relenghtened and depending on your rear hear ratio you will lose top speed. Our truck now only reaches 59 miles per hour because it has 4.17 rear end gear ratio and the ht-740 trans does not have overdrive.

Ahhhh awesome. Well I did find out that I had low fluid in the system, thanks staxx. We finally got around to returning the timing to 5 degrees... NO MORE SMOKE!! It idles so smooth now and revs easy. I would like to thank everyone on this great forum for the help. The reason I feel the engine is sluggish is because I'm running a used ecm tuned for only 300 horsepower. The truck was originally a 350HP. But other than that all is good! Thanks staxx for adding me a new skill on troubleshooting Mack trucks!

Actually it is blink code 1-7. I miscounted

Ok it looks like I'm getting blink code 1-8..... Thanks for teaching me how to do this!

What is this? Craigslist? Lol. I'm kidding, but those primer pumps come as a whole part (cap and primer) if you don't feel like paying dealer cost you might be able to get the part number from it and look it up on finditparts.com. Sometimes you can get lucky with ebay too. Is it a bosch primer?

I did suspect the econovance to be an issue, that's why I took it off and cleaned it and removed the screens... It did idle better but the small amount of smoke remains... I will tell you that when the truck received the new engine I had to install a used ecu on it because the old one maded the engine run terrible and idled around 450rpm. Once I installed the new (used) ecu we had laying around in the shop the truck ran way better. However we still had a little smoke and upon revving the engine it tends to accelerate rough until it comes up to speed... I have already changed the engine position sensor on the governor of the injection pump with no effect. Could I have a bad econovance valve?! This thing is driving me crazy at this point.

Yes it does have the electronic malfunction and engine shut down light on in the dash. Unfortunately I have no way of reading the codes because my scanner doesn't do Macks.

Ok guys so now we have a 1996 Mack CH-613 with a e-7 (electronic injection pump) in the shop... It rolled in with a spun rod bearing and destroyed the crank and rod. We pulled the engine and installed a complete PAI rebuild kit, everything is new with the only exception of the oil pump, that checked out good. Basically we bolted everything back up, we set valve lash and retimed the injection pump to 7 degrees and fired it up.... The engine idled very rough and we let it run for about an hour, we then removed and cleaned the econovance valve which fixed the rough idle but it still smokes gray slightly. The valve cover calls for 5 degrees pump timing but could setting it to 7 degrees really cause the gray smoke? Also if you accelerate the engine it sounds rough and shakes until it comes up to speed. What do y'all recommend?! I'm stumped.

Thanks a lot!

Hey guys I'm working on a 1996 Mack CH-613 with a E-7/350, long story short it needs a crankshaft so I picked one up local in great shape it came out of a 1999 Mack CH with a E-Tech/350. It's a used take out but it's in good condition, I have swapped over the gear from the old crank to the new one and all the journals are the same thickness, dimensions are the same.... The problem, the crank is very similar but I just found out that the counter balances are thinner than on the old crank, overall the new crank is lighter weight. My question is, is the etech crank interchangeable with the older style e7?!

Bullhusk do you have any details about these three speed aux trannys? Do thry just bolt up to the tail of an allison or what's the deal? I am in desperate need of tips to make this swap work. But I'm very limited to the truck and tranny I have for the swap

Superdog, the truck is running 11r24.5 rubber and the gears are 4.17 (so I've been told by the dealer. This is very frustrating for me because I can see the trucl working great but not being able to go over 60mph is going to be a GREAT issue.

Gearheadgrrl, you're actually dead on with your theory. So since I will be using an electric 12 volt modulator that I got from allison how should I go about wiring it all up? I have heard that power and maneuverability becomes a problem so I am prepared to have my ecm fladhed for somewhere around 400 HP and added torque. The tranny can handle it. How much top speed will I lose? The max I can run on the truck is 75mph at about 1900rpm

Lol worst part about it is that he's got a really nice collection of pullout parts in his shop just gathering dust .... tisk tisk... anyone got any ideas for the swap?

Hey guys its been a few weeks since yall last helped me with a problem I was facing on a timing issue with a truck. Well now the boss handed me another dumb request. He wants me to pull a perfectly working 13-speed mack t2130 tranny from a 1996 CH613 with an e-7. I have most of the parts for the swap including: an allison HT740RS tranny, a heat exchanger to cool the oil, torque converter, bellhousing, spacers, mounts, and most of the hardware. I am aware that I will have to get the driveshaft refitted to it but I will take care of that later. My concern is that this transmission was pulled from a 1994 mack that also had an e-7 but the injection pump had an air actuator that was connected to an air throttle pedal! The reason for that was that the modulatoe for the transmission kick-down was air operated. I now have the correct electronic replacement modulator for the ht740 that I intend on using with our CH truck. Can anyone give me any insight on how to wire this thing? Any and all tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Did you replace the oil filters when you noticed this change? I doubt it but what if your old ones we're cligged? Your pressures sound normal

I run my 96 CH with the e7 all day and that's exactly what I see all day long. 15 psi sounds good. 30's at idle sounds way too high. It is however normal for it to be in its 30's at idle while cold. Or atleast that's how mine is and it has been nothing but reliable

Alright guys sorry for being a little late, it took me a while to get back to the truck but I finally got around to working on it. Staxx you were dead on with the drive gear on the cam that turns the injection pump.... its all points to the gear slipping right on the cam. I put the engine back in time with the injection pump and voila. It starts right up. I now realize the injection pump was never bad to begin with because all these problems started right after the cam job, and that we likely spent our money on a scam shop. Oh well. My problem now is that the cam we used was a PAI brand cam which I was told is the OEM replacement for mack. We had the old cam gears pressed on at our local mack onto the new cam. We thought it would work fine because the boys at mack said reusing the cam gears was ok so we just paid them for a new thrust bearing and keyway when they installed the gears. I'm wondering if there's a way to maybe drill in between the gear and the cam's face to thread and install a bolt and act as a key? Or maybe weld the gear right onto the cam? I'm not trying to be crude about the repair but in out of ideas!

Staxx, I will re-time for sure this weekend as much as I hate doing it lol as far as getting the governor timing done right I really hope they got it right and live up to their "bosch licensed" knowledge. I will double check the bolts on that pump gear where you set the degrees behind the access plate. I will keep yall posted on what I find out this weekend. Thanks guys!

Theakerstwo, we actually tried that back in january when we popped the cam in there. The problem was even after sticking the cam in the freezer and the gear in the oven at full blast it still didn't want to slip right on, apparently it has to be heated AND pressed on. Well that's what the mack boys did anyway

theakerstwo, you have a VERY good point on the cam gear that turns the injection pump. We had the gear pressed on at mack I really hope they didn't screw up, that was a $1600 cam and many hours of work to install it at our shop. I will be working on it this weekend and I will double check the pump gear itself for signs of movement through the access plate amd then I will re-time it. Y'all are right this does sound like a timing issuebut I sure hate timing these motors they are such a pain in the ***

Staxx, if I carefully add ether to make it start then the electronic malfunction and engine shutdown light up as the engine roars to life but it blows out large amounts of gray/white smoke and smells like unburnt diesel. This is EXACTLY the symptoms the truck gave when the injection pump went out. We were told at the bosch shop that the 2nd plunger had to be hammered out due to excessive wear throughout the pump and it seized itself in place. After the rebuild we dialed it right up to the motor's timing amd it ran absolutely perfect... that is before it went to its first day of work.