96bulldogpower

I’m in no way steering you away from the asets, they came with their cons but we still love the three that we still have just because they’re so dependable. We have two AC’s and one AI left, the one with the AI we did the performance recipe you’re talking about but we only really noticed the performance increase after doing the AC cam swap. It runs great now, just like an older e-tech. To further plead the MP’s case, even though they’re more troublesome, I thoroughly enjoy the driving experience of an MP truck way better. The power delivery is more refined, the cab alone is a huge upgrade, and once you get used to working on them they’re not too bad to do repairs on yourself. I advocate for an epa04 MP7 but I know they’re hard to find. You can always find a nice newer MP and have it deleted and have the engine file changed to a 397c for the best power and torque for a vocational truck. We love our Mack’s and all the quirks we have to deal with on them lol 🤣

I haven’t left you guys hanging, I went ahead and ordered the new wiring harness and I guess I’ll be the Guinea pig and try out the Chinese ecm to see what they’re like. I figured if it doesn’t work then I atleast have buyer protection. I ordered both and I’ll let you guys know what I think about the ecm when I receive it.

We own both. I wouldn’t say the AMI was the best of the asets, in my opinion the best aset was the AC, just because it had respectable performance for what it was. I’m assuming you’re looking at getting some type of a vocational truck and not something OTR based on the engine choices you’re talking about. The AMI will generally be trouble free and have a lower cost of ownership especially when it comes to repairs, but it’s a slow turd and it can even sometimes be a hazard for how underpowered those engines are. The MP7 will perform excellent especially if you find one with a 397c engine file. Those engines pull hard for the size engine that they are. Don’t expect them to pull with the large displacement engines, but you’ll be happy with its performance. The downsides are that parts and repairs will come at a tax. We have more problems with our MP7’s than we do with our older aset trucks. When an aset goes down, it’s usually a quick repair. When an MP goes down it’s sometimes a wild goose chase to find the problem and then to wait on parts. having said all of this, your results will vary, depending on the condition of each truck you find and how well it was maintained by their previous owner. if you’re considering an MP, try looking for the rare early 07’ model granite CTP713. The early ones had EPA 04 emissions which only came with egr, no dpf or scr. We have two of those and it’s the best of both worlds, MP power and efficiency with aset reliability, and the newer style cabs are a plus.

Not to be a cheap azz, I usually buy only OEM especially for specialty or critical parts like these. But this truck is bleeding us dry.. Have any of yall ever tried the knock off ecm’s on eBay? They look 100% identical and another listing shows the innards and it also looks identical to a real Mack/volvo ecm with no visible differences in the circuitry. Any reason why this wouldn’t work? I got quoted $3900 for an oem ecm blank.. trying to save some money if at all possible.

Update, truck ran all day today and functioned perfectly. I’m still concerned about the truck burning this ecm as it’s the very last one I had in my parts stash. I’m ordering a brand new one tomorrow and I’ll have the ecm shop clone it again. Heinz provided me a part number for the whole engine wiring harness. My plan is to install the new harness and new ecm at the same time, I will also be installing the additional ground cable directly on the Ecm body like I have it now, can’t hurt anything I guess. I’ll put an order in by tomorrow for the parts and the truck is set to come back to the shop in a couple of weeks at which point I’ll get it all installed, as long as it survives until then anyway..

Not sir, the fuel lines are still routed to the cooling plate like it came from the factory. Looks like this will end up being an electrical issue from what I’m gathering

I agree. I think that as these things age, the factory installed ground strap starts to lose connection until the ecm eventually burns itself from trying to find ground through other circuits. Just a theory though, I wish I knew for sure.

Ok update: I remembered something just before the truck went down. The truck was frequently going into high idle around 1100rpm just randomly throughout the day anytime the parking break was set and the truck sat idling around 5 minutes. I figured it had something to do with the smart idle settings in the parameters, which cause the truck to raise the idle to maintain charging voltage when it sensed it was low. This prompted us to replace all the batteries since one was bad. Only three days before the truck went down. It was also only showing 13.2 volts at idle and the smart idle function triggers when voltage hits 12.8 volts and raises the rpm. Fast forward to this weekend, I took the ecm in for repair and they told me it was too badly burnt to repair, I still have the burnt ecm, it’s not repairable. I got another used replacement ecm and had it cloned with another that I have for this truck, got it back to the truck and installed it. I also installed an additional heavy gauge ground wire directly to the ecm because the oem ground strap that the ecm’s come with was looking pretty questionable. I got the truck started and I’m not sure, but now that it has additional grounding, the voltage on the dash now reads 13.7 volts. I don’t know if that’s coincidence or what. Anyway, the truck is set to return back to service tomorrow, I’ll update when I know how it behaves.

I agree that it could be wiring related, I spent some more time with the truck trying to figure out what’s going on. The engine ecm is definitely offline, it won’t communicate with the laptop. Power and ground leading up to it seem fine from what I could test with what tools I had available to me. As much as I hate to “parts cannon” a truck, I think I’m going to try replacing the engine harness. It still needs an ecm though from what I can tell. I already took the ecm off, I’ll have it tested and repaired tomorrow if all goes well. Could someone please get the the correct part number for the engine harness for the truck? 2012 GU713 MP7 VIN: 1M2AX04C5CM011802

Ecm plugs are completely dry, I did injectors on this truck not that long ago and I saw oil in the connectors for each injector so I figured it was on borrowed time for a new engine harness, but no there’s no oil or coolant that has made it yet to the ecm connectors.

Well guys I got it hooked up and it’s not looking good. No hours on the hour meter and it has communication codes. This is classic of yet another burned ecm. Does anyone know why this truck keeps burning out ECM’s? ill do some more diagnostic on it later today when I have time just to rule out other variables, but im pretty certain its got a bad module.

Hey guys I have an issue with our main problem child again. Truck is a 12’ granite mp7. A bit of history, we got the truck with a burned ecm when we bought it, we replaced the ecm with a used one and it ran for a while, we started having issues with emissions components so we had it deleted about 3 months ago. Then truck ran great for 2 months then the ecm failed again this time it still started but only ran on three cylinders. We replaced the ecm yet again with a used one and had it deleted again and the truck ran great for 2 weeks. Today, we started the truck in the morning and it ran for 10 seconds then shut off, now if you try to start it only the dash lights up like usual but the engine doesn’t crank or start. I did the preliminary things like checking fuses and battery connections (new batteries three days ago), but nothing seems out of order. I’m having someone bring me my laptop later today to hook up and see what’s going on, but I’m already suspecting bad ecm again. Do you guys have any insight? What can be causing this truck to repeatedly burn ecm’s? Any tips on dealing with the no start no crank if it isn’t the ecm? It did start initially for 10 seconds before going dead.

Hi, this was our truck. It was such a problem child at first but then we got it worked out and fixed, this was some time ago.. Long story short the truck had a burned out fuse for the Allison trans behind the passenger side kick panel, the wiring harness bulkhead had damaged pins, the ECM was burned out, and it had bent push rod tubes. Once we found out it had bent pushrods, we then found out it also have cam damage and knocked out H-rings for the lifters. We ended up replacing the whole engine with a low mileage one we got lucky and found nearby to us.

You’re right! The truck worked for a couple of days since repairing it. No problems since, it was just my paranoia setting in that we broke something else inside. Thank you!

736GB421M3X courtesy of Mackpro, he helped me out with this in the past. Hope this helps

injectors.pdf

Hey guys I have a CHN with Mack rears that snapped a thru shaft last week on the front/rear. I had spare parts at the shop so I waited till I had time to pull them and just got around to installing today. It seemed pretty simple, the shaft snapped and it pushed the half with the yoke straight out of the aluminum seal flange. After replacing the broken parts I turned the output yoke by hand and it spun the front yoke as expected. Unfortunately every so often if I’d spin it faster, it would feel as if something inside would slip as if a spline was stripped or something. I put everything back together and with the power divider unlocked, the truck would spin the rear tires even with the brakes at near full pressure, so it leads me to believe it’s okay? Am I missing something? Would the auto power divider make it behave that way when spinning it by hand?

Hey guys! I was hoping someone here had access to part numbers for the chrome mirror covers with lights built in. About 6 years ago I bought a set from an online auction but I can’t seem to find updated part numbers on these so I can get them again for a new truck I’m putting together. I only have what I believe to be the outdated part numbers for the left side: (8413-97429) and (23914107). Can anyone here share the left and right side updated part numbers? What a ballpark price on these nowadays? much appreciated!

Guys, just wanted to post a follow up on this. The truck has been back to work for going on three weeks now. It’s had a 300 mile trip in addition to all the daily on-site hours it has logged, and the oil level still hasn’t risen. I’d call this a fix!! I’d also like to add that we’ve noticed and improvement in fuel economy as well. I’d like to thank you guys, especially Heinz for the help!

Alright guys, I went ahead and installed new cups and injectors. The truck now sounds a little quieter and isn’t quite as strong as before. It’s not slow by any means and I believe it pulls about as strong as our other trucks, but there was a noticeable power decrease right after the injectors. My theory is that maybe the injectors it had on before were off a d13 with larger nozzles? I have no idea, but I’m happy with the results. I will be giving an update in a couple of weeks when the truck works for a bit and let y’all know if this healed the oil level rising problem.

Oh man 😓. You’re a lifesaver! I just went ahead and placed my order on a six pack using the p/n you provided. It ships out today, I’ll get them installed as soon as they arrive and I’ll keep you guys updated on the results after a while of working the truck

Would this cause the truck to be horrendous on fuel economy? We have a mix of 18 speeds and Allison’s. We’ve always known our Allison trucks to be bad on fuel economy but this one seems to be the worst, and this one is also an Allison truck.

Currently the engine has all Volvo injectors with part number 22479123, I figured these were original to the truck? Would the six pack part number you referenced interchange with the ones I currently have? Vin: 1M2AX04C5CM011802

Okay guys, update this morning I’ve exhausted all my UV dye, I’ve never used this much dye trying to find a leak. I’ve checked meticulously around each and every injector, plunger, and both gallery plugs. I still cannot pinpoint a leak. I have a suspicion of a faint uv glow from the injector plunger springs but I’m not sure it’s even that, at this point even the oil pooled up on the head seems to glow 🤣 it’s driving me crazy.. I could be wrong, but I don’t suspect cups just because the engine starts and runs perfectly with no performance issues, no air blowing into the fuel system either.

The truck has about 280k miles and about 20k hours. It’s got the original injectors as far as I can tell