steelman

I have one exactly like it.  I have owned it for years, and it is in about the same shape, if not a little worse.  I always wanted to use the cab for an extended cab B model pickup truck (on a Dodge diesel chassis I have), but probably won't get to that project any time soon.  Would make a welcome addition to my "herd", but not at that price. 

I have used oven cleaner, like easy-off, to strip paint off of boats and other machinery.  Works extremely well.  Just keep a water hose nearby to rinse occasionally and to spray your body parts if you get it on you.  You MUST wear safety glasses and rubber gloves!!!  Any caustic solution will remove most paints (think lye), that is what oven cleaner is.  It actually worked much better than the so called paint strippers except aircraft stripper.

Carlotpilot: I know LLoyd, known him for years. He closed his shop a few years ago, but he and the wife are still around. He is still active in the Fredericksburg Historic Region AACA club here in town. Steelman

Yes, the small welders would be perfect for 12/14/16 ga. sheet metal and angle up to probably 1/4". It is for those thicknesses that we bought the machines, as well as the small, light footprint. We use CO2 for hard wire and fluxcore wire for most things (its cheap), but use 75/25 mix if we want to reduce splatter. Most of our other welders are inverters up to 450 amp, but they are rather expensive.

I run a steel fabrication shop, and I would suggest the Miller or Lincoln 110 volt machine. I personally have a Lincoln at home, and it comes with a gas regulator. I have used gasless wire, flux core and hardwire, and its handles it just fine. We have several at work that are over 15 years old, and they get quite a workout. You won't handle thick material with it, as they generally top out at around 120 amps on 110 volt, but are very well built for the job they are intended for.

I have an 18 speed out of a B model that is disassembled. Has an aluminum case. Needs bearings and clean up. Was removed by the previous owner after engine needed work, and I bought it for the cab for another project. Would that be of any interest? Don't have a price in mind, I have no plans for it.

I have some wooden ladders on a 1924 AB ladder truck I have that I won't be needing. They are rough, but someone might find them useful. Located in Fredericksburg, Va. Steelman

By the way, mine has a 12 volt generator on it. It appears to be original.

Nice truck! I have one just like it, just not as pretty. I was wondering if you could tell me the numbers or any info on the distributor vacuum advance. Mine is rusted out, and I can't find one to fit it. If I had the numbers on it and make, I might do better. Thanks, Steelman

Just saw this thread today. Very nice truck. In reading the posts, last year you said finding a rebuild kit for the carb, SF3, was impossible. Not so. Call Treadwell carburetor in New York. Very nice folks. I bought three rebuild kits for the SF3 last year from them, as I have these on some AC's I own. Very reasonable price, and they can overhaul your carb (or just about any other, old or new).

I called and talked with Mr. Sprowl some 20+ years ago, and wrote down the specs regarding what he had done so I could build mine. I will try to locate it in my office. He narrowed the cab, shortened the height of the fenders and radiator grill, eliminating the small running light below the headlight, used a B67 (shorter) hood, first used a cummins 4BT but later changed to a 6BT, used a Ford 350 frame, and cut down the stepside fuel tanks. I seem to recall the front fender mods being the most difficult. Steelman

Jerry, I plan to be there Thursday afternoon. See you then. Carey

I believe the yellow one has B model fenders on the rear mounted backwards. Yes, George Sprowl did the green one as well as a couple of others. I first saw them years ago at Hershey. I always wanted to do one for my daily driver, and he was very good about sharing information with me about the details. I still have a 1993 Dodge with cummins I bought to make the conversion. Steelman

Thank you for the info. I had forgotten to book a hotel. Called today, got my room at the discounted price. Thank you again. Carey

The fellow ???? standing between Mack Altoona-Tom and fxfymn-Carl is me, steelman-Carey. I had the 1918 WW1 unrestored Liberty truck inside the building.

Nice truck. The headlights look to be adlake electric headlights. I have some just like it on another truck. 1922 was the year the bell shape or hood shape plates started to be used. The radiator is the early style, which I believe was not being used at that date. Are you sure it is a 1922?

Or Coker Tire, in Tennessee.

Try Miller Tire, Wauseon, Ohio

We bought one from Northern Tool (now Northern), about 25 years ago or so to do a job cleaning up a railroad station before hanging some new steel and painting. We use it regularly, and it still works great. It has a Honda engine. Buy the good stuff. Price is long forgotten when you buy quality.

Thanks, Paul. I couldn't find out how to contact anyone there (I am only 22 miles away). This helps a lot. No, I didn't get the tranny. The one in the new truck is different. There are lots of parts on it I do need though. When I am done, I think it will make a pretty cool display unit. Carey

I am not sure who built the newer (smaller) Liberty, but the 3 ton I am restoring was probably built by Graham Bernstein in Lima, Ohio. All of the grease caps have GB on them. The engine looks like a Hinkley, but I have been told it was built with Continental and Waukasha parts. I haven't had time to compare the two engines side by side yet. The one I am restoring and hope to bring to the shows will run. I would like to find axles for the new one (even if they were wrong). I think I can get the engine running (given enough time and money). Carey