steelman

I have factory drawings of both valves if you need a copy, just let me know.   A company that can make the valves is :  H & J Machining, Henry Simons, Carrington, ND, 701.652.3289,  www.HandJMachining.com  For gaskets, I got a brand new set made by Olson's gaskets in Washington state.  I have factory drawings for many of the AC parts (sheet metal, some engine parts).  We are in the steel fabrication business, so I wanted to make my own replacement parts as I have seven AC's and parts for a few more. 

The voltage will not change.  It will remain the voltage it was wound to.  Polarizing changes the ground and positive connections, not voltage. 

Is the pipe connected to the valve/pump Assembly?  Could it be the return to tank if the valve is centered and the pressurized oil needs to go somewhere?

I would be interested in information on the starter and ring gear for AC's.  Doesn't the aluminum lower part of the engine have the hole where the starter bolts.  Do you have to cut that in, or are all AC engines already preped for a Starter?  I don't remember seeing this on all of the AC engines I have.

I agree.  The hood and therefore the frame is a bit longer on the AC6 models.  This truck looks like the 10 louver hood fits perfectly.  Was it modified?  Years ago I looked at buying several AC's in New Jersey that had been converted to modern 6 cylinder engines.  They used the original radiators and had done a pretty job with the conversion.  One of them was a tractor model with the rear spring hangers rolled down and smaller rear wheels to lower the chassis height.  I didn' t buy them, but I wonder what happened to them.  They were near Woodbridge, NJ.  

• I have found three (3) pictures, and have many more.  Will send these three now, and hopefully, more tomorrow.

I am looking for the pictures as I write this.  Should have them to you soon.  Steelman

I have a complete engine and transmission out of a Mack bus I wish to sell.  Had it on here for sale a while back.  I have some pictures, and some info on what is cast onto the engine and tranny.  Was removed from a working (ROADWORTHY) BUS BY A FRIEND ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO.  I know very little about it.  I do not wish to take it apart, but want to sell it complete.  Can palletize and load on a freight carrier, or take to a fastenal store for shipping.  Contact me here, or 540.371.2301.  Located in Virginia, 50 miles south of Wash., DC.  Carey Leitch

Thank you very much for the information.  

You are right, that was jack Comer.  And I believe that was Gary Mahan in the picture.  Jack's trucks have been coming to Macungie with Mr. Mahan the last several years.  Jack's dad, Marv was very active in both antique truck clubs before he died.  They had a hugh sale at their quarry  twenty or so years ago.  I and several friends went.  They had hundreds of trucks, some really interesting items sold.   I have not been particularly impressed with pickers, what they choose to buy or what they pay for things.  A friend and I went to Hershey last year on Thursday (it started officially on Wednesday) , and the pickers were there packing up to leave after just one day.  Mikes brother said they were done, going back to Iowa.  I have been going for over 45 years, for 2 to 4 days, and never see everything there, but they managed in less than one day.  

1927 advertising literature shows AC engines with no heads.  The "high hat" engine which featured detachable aluminum heads were introduced in 1928.  Your truck is correct with the jug head engine (no heads).  Engines and transmissions had serial numbers, but I cannot remember where the engine number is located.  The chassis number you found on the frame is how the trucks are identified.  Like 41 chevy said, generators (12 volt!) and starters were optional and available.  I have a 1923 AB with both.  

One more thing, the war where most of those were shipped out, WW1, ended Nov. 11, 1918.  A 1920 truck hadn't been built then.

I don't think this would qualify as a "basket case".  Looks to be in pretty good shape, probably an older restoration left sitting for years.  The amount of money people think things are worth is always interesting.  You could easily spend $100K restoring this, or you could spend 30-40K and a lot of sweat.  Add 55K or even 20K to those numbers, and you better have deep pockets,  a real desire to own one of these, or not know how to swim once you realize you are in the deep end of the pool. 

The something welded ahead of the number is most likely a piece of sheet metal and some woven cloth for the hood to rest on when down. 

Your truck is a five (5) ton model (first two numbers, 10, indicate 5 ton).  I have a serial number list at home which will narrow it down to month and year produced.  Will look it up when I get home later today, and send you what I find.  Steelman

Years ago, Phil Baumgartner in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla. Made high quality reproductions of plates, model numbers, etc.  Demand dropped off after awhile, and then he died.  I am not aware of anyone making repro plates now.  Occasionally, one will pop up on ebay or other places for sale.  Phil was a true gentleman, and did this because he loved old trucks, especially Macks.  

The old mills are pretty much gone.  Combination of environmental regulations and efficiency improvements  making steel.  Starting about 25 years ago or so, the so called mini mills started to be built.  These mills specialize in what they make.  Plate mills, small bar mills, tube mills, structural mills, etc. We're built.  They are much more efficient, produce a  better product, and make money.  Continuous casting and other process improvements have made this so.  We produce better steel, more efficiently, cheaper, and more of it than anywhere else in the world.  

Lewis auction.  The AB airplane engine tester truck went for more money.  I agree the tire truck looks like a converted fire service truck.

Nice unit.  Should do well in your application.  The only thing I would have done differently is to keep the LED lighting.  They solve 95% of the problems people have with trailers.  I would have spent a few hours reversing the ground/power leads at each light.  From 1935 to 1977, my dad had a small local truck company.  I worked there as a teenager, and most trailer problems involved keeping those darn incandescent lights working.  

I have had excellent results from Treadwell carburetor Co., 4870 County hwy 14, treadwell, n.y.  13846,  607.829.8321.  Nice folks, test everything they work on before shipping.  Very reasonable.  

Very Good! Glad to see this resolved.   Just got my Sept. Issue of Hemming motor news today.  It was advertised for sale in this issue for $300,000.00.  Wow!

I was surprised and shocked at most of the prices.  Gives me hope if I ever decide to sell my stuff! Guess I have reached that "old age" where I think everything is expensive. 

I am not too wild about using heat on the frame, as it is heat treated.  Same reason you should not weld on them.  I have a 1918 truck frame we took apart last year to replace a frame rail, rivets and all.  We cut the heads off one side with a cutting wheel in an air powered tool first.  We then took an air rivet tool with a punch in it, and pushed them out.  It wasn't easy, and it was loud!  A few that seemed stuck we drilled out the center of the rivet as described above, then used the air hammer on them and they came out. After that, I cobbled up a 70 ton hydraulic tool to push the rest out, using an old punch and die (we are a steel fab shop).  Like I said, I am not fond of heat for this application.  We did use heat to put new rivets (5/8" diameter) back in when we put it back together. We heated the rivets up to cherry red, put them in the hole, and banged away on the other end, just like they were put in originally. Just my 2 cents worth. 

I have a B47 tandem axle, with the END 465.  Tranny is a 12 speed i believe (haven't looked at it in a while). It was a dump truck with a triple frame and had wedge brakes .  We pulled it around the yard, and it started right up and ran great.  I thought about making it a single axle with cam brakes and putting a 24' Jerr Dan roll back body I have on it (10 ton steel riggers body) to haul my toys.  I have some doubts about it having enough power.  

• The serial number is on the top of the frame on the left front (drivers side) side.