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Everything posted by mattb73lt

  1. The windshield area was a pain to repair, like the roof edges.
  2. Into the daylight and off to the fabricator to build some gutters for it. Just a few more things to complete then bodywork/paint. Getting close to making some major progress and having this looking like a truck instead of a huge pile of parts spread everywhere.
  3. Nice, I guess I'm not the only one driving around! I burned up a whole tank of gas driving in circles "exercising" my truck as there's nowhere to go, yet..........
  4. Interesting they're with Hagerty, now. I tried to insure with them a couple of years ago with my B model and they refused me on the grounds that the truck had a roll-back body. I contacted Hagerty about it and sent them pictures. After a little back and forth due to what they said was that they usually don't insure those types of vehicles. I stated to both companies that the truck was only for my vehicles and that if they would insure I had five other restored antique vehicles that I wanted to put on the same policy. Gulfway still didn't want my business. Hagerty was more than happy to insure my "collection" and they have my policy now. I'm very happy with Hagerty, their coverage and costs. I did explain to both companies the purpose and usage of the truck to support the cars on club events and tours, as I belong to several and do events over a fairly large region of the Northeast. The reason for that was that I wanted to ensure coverage for what I do and not be left holding the bag if an accident occurred. Hagerty is very friendly to work with and really supports the antique vehicle group.
  5. Bill Mitchell from Connecticut owned that truck. I believe he did sell it, though.
  6. I did this a while back with a '63 B-42. I used a B-61SX as a donor truck. The frame on the B-42 was pre-drilled to accept gas or diesel cross members and transmission mounts, so both will bolt right in. I would think that the B-30 frame would be pre-drilled as well, although it is a much lighter truck. The springs may be an issue up front with the added weight of the eng & trans. Having a donor would really help for all the bits and pieces you'll need to hook everything up. I have a 237 in mine now, hooked to a triplex. Started with a END-673. The five speed might take the same mounts, but I'm not sure. The engine will fit and you'll need the bigger B-61 radiator to cool it. It will handle the 237. Somebody, here, may have done this to a B-30 and have more info on the pros and cons of that particular model. It can be done, though.
  7. Though not as comfortable to drive. A much better overall truck in many ways. Hence, the very long service life. Several production runs and upgrades over its life. i would say the only thing the M715 has over it are driver comfort, larger cargo bed and capacity. one of my favorite trucks. Purpose built and military through and through.
  8. If I was to do an upgrade now, I would swap the axles and driveline completely. For an engine I would look for a Cummins diesel. With the stock axles, you’re limited now to one additional ratio, 4.54, I believe. When I did my ratio swap, 4.11’s were still available. The bakes and hubs also limit options for wheels/tires and disc brakes would be nice on all four corners. Stock parts require more searching of late as the stock is way down. I’ve seen some really nice builds that are far from stock and ones that are restored to all original with all their correct markings. I like the whole spectrum of them. My concept, when I did mine, was to do an upgrade to make it reliable and a version that maybe the military might have done. The Army did re-engine some with a small block Chevy, I’ve read. There was even a M-715A1 prototype that was evaluated, but never bought. Overall, it was not a very successful truck for the Army, hence the very short service life of around 10 years. A lot of Dodge M-37’s remained in service that were supposed to be replaced by it. As for the small block Chevy 350 I selected at the time, it was available and one of the most popular swaps, and still is. As for an AMC engine, it wasn’t that important to me to keep it all “Jeep” and none were to be found. There are way more partsand options available for the Chevy vs the AMC. I’d love to go with a Cummins if I ever needed another engine, but they are a lot more expensive. I’ve been very happy with what I’ve done with this one, as it’s reliable and will still move more than most civilian trucks. I had two yards of crushed stone in it a while back for a yard project, probably the heaviest load I’ve had in it with no issues moving or stopping.
  9. Oh, yeah, and civilian tires. The non-directional military tires look neat, but they can be dangerous in wet conditions and don’t wear well.
  10. 4 bolt SBC 350, Wagoneer power steering, power brakes, 12 volt electrics, bench seat inside the cab vs the buckets. 4.11 gears vs 5.86 stock. Repositioned rear driveshaft on the transfer case to quiet it at speed. Updated combination lights. Three color woodland camouflage paint in the pattern of the ‘80’s Chevy CUCV. All that made it pretty much a daily driver.
  11. I don’t know of any that have been imported or if they can. I’ve had one for over 25 years. When I got it, no one wanted them and you could find them everywhere. The last several years they’ve become quite popular and have a huge following. In their stock form they weren’t very reliable and had a very short service life in the military. I ran mine stock for a few years, but then “upgrade” it to make it what I wanted and reliable.
  12. I've been using this etching primer from NAPA on everything, including the aluminum parts/castings. I'm going to use PPG Concept in "Fleet Red", paint code 75674, as a top coat. This was based on a talk with Matt Pfahl on what he's been using. My past experience has been mostly with Dupont Centari enamel. I need to ask the PPG vendor about an epoxy/primer/sealer I used on my other B model project, as for compatibility. I had very good luck with my last job, and its lasted over 20 years with a lot of outside exposure. I don't do major projects like this often, so I ask a lot of questions leading up to painting and not wanting to have a very expensive screw up come out of it.
  13. Yes, I can. I have all the gears to do so and all the other attachments. It’s old(1920’s?), but fine for my projects.
  14. Over the life of this cab model, I don’t think they ever deleted a single hole or attachment. So many unused holes, the old radiator support rod holes are still there for an LJ radiator, plus the bigger ones for the B radiator. A piece of angle iron added, I think that’s to support the big heater on the inside. A lot will get reused, but man there’s a lot. I guess if you bought it for an earlier truck, as a replacement, it would all still fit no matter the year.
  15. No kidding. You’d think they would’ve deleted them as they weren’t needed. Nope, let’s just drill more!,
  16. Final time putting the roof on, permanently this time. What a huge, tedious, pain in the ass getting the edges repaired. Took me about two weeks of fiddling and fussing to get it right and leave enough room for the gutters. The results were good, though. Door gaps look good and neither door binds or rubs. Just the front pillars to do and a bunch of small fixes to do and then on to bodywork and paint. I really can’t believe I brought this rusty, banged up cab back.
  17. If he displayed the same attitude, no wonder he got popped. If you're driving a rolling cobbed up POS that wouldn't pass a dumpster, you're just asking to get stopped, ticketed and towed.
  18. Never had any issues hauling anything anywhere with classic plates for 20+ years. In and out of state all the way to Colorado and Virginia.
  19. The one change in CT I need to add to the above info I stated is that you need a DOT # exemption letter filled out for the application. Attached is a letter directly from CT DMV with the requirements of the letter that must be Notarized. Other than that, all remains the same as it has been for the last several years. I am amazed at the lack of knowledge that exists behind the counter at DMV offices and the variety of answers you can get from branch to branch. You can search through Title 14 of the Connecticut General Statutes to arm yourself in preparation to going there. VALS327, I would agree with you on that and the vehicle, mechanically, should be able to pass that. But, it is an added expense for most people at the hobby level to get one done. Hopefully, this will help those of us who live and register in Connecticut.
  20. You shouldn't need the inspection. Just a vin verification. Have all your paperwork squared away and proof of ownership/insurance and registration application. I just coached someone having issues at the Danbury branch basically saying the same thing. I had them go to the Norwalk branch and they walked out with classic plates without issue. There's lots of misinformation out there within DMV. The vehicle will be used for personal non-commercial purposes, classic plates are appropriate.
  21. One of my favorites. Saw it a few times at shows. I use it as my inspiration on how I want mine to look, but with red fenders.
  22. These are the “Emergency”version for fire trucks. They should be loud!.
  23. Laid out the new roof and drilled 23 holes to mount the clearance lights and dual horns. The roof was off a fire truck and had no clearance lights, just evidence of two different rotating beacons. Every now and then there's a little light that this is going to get done.
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