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10 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

The 3 pumps are ready to go to the pump shop this week along with 3 sets of injectors to get cleaned and pop-off pressures set. One stock set is getting military nozzles, one set already had them. They were in the tank turbo mockup engine and the V-Pump was turned up to Max. The third set is for competition only and duel feed units capable of 2500hp plus. These should be fine but just want the spray patters checked. They will be used in this Quad Turbo engine along with the 14mm pump.

The damaged P-pump valve holders will be replaces with Bosch parts. Aftermarket ones are about $30 each but I am not thrilled on them. I do have the Socket to remove them as well but it is off to the pump shop anyway for recalibration.

 

Vlad, If you look on the pallet the four head manifolds are laying there. Those are the only Exhaust manifolds I got with this engine the other pieces were gone. I have one complete spare set of E9 manifolds that I am saving for the other trucks that I have. Manifolds are hard to come by in good shape. Take a photo of your turbo mounting section. From your full engine photo the turbo is off to the right side a lot. Knowing that it is opposite a Mack application it may be the same part or easy to modify, it would mount on the bellhousing in the same location.

It was a rare rainy day here, a prefect day to go to the shop and get a little more mocked up.

Cool tank manifolds, the right side is a three piece unit. The reason is exhaust cylinder pulsation. What that means is the small turbos are split or divided housing units The way they work best is to have an even left/right exhaust pulse for the corresponding cylinders. Mack engineering did their homework, true Factory Hot Dog Stuff. The left side is a two piece unit that is split as well just not the same as the right. Not the single log manifold, as seen on the pallet, that is on all E9's in truck use. Heat shielding that I will be reusing are stainless honeycomb military spec.

 

Right side manifold, have some work to get the large turbo to fit with the parts I have. It has to be moved back a few inches and up a few as well. The electric engine brakes is going by-by, to much exhaust restriction.

 

Right side three piece manifold. Got the Large turbo almost in the right location for now. It is a open entry T6 mount. Actually these turbos are very close in size the the single turbo used on the E9-500.

 

 

 

 

 

Going to be interesting to see just how much boost this engine will put out! Also how much frame alteration thatd going to have to be done to jam that in the vehicle!

6 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Typically when a healthy turbo leaks oil is when it’s been idled too long and oil leaks past the sealing ring because it’s not Slinging oil, it has coking of the oil inside on the ring, or the drain tube is blocked causing oil to back up and push out. That’s if it’s the turbo leaking. From what you stated your positive it’s the turbo. 

Also make Sure the air filter is clean Check the simple stuff first turbos arn't cheap these days! and you can open up a can of worms changing one with broken studs 7th injector bolts etc.!

2 hours ago, 67RModel said:

That looks like an American Bosch pump. Removal is very strait forward. Disconnect all linkages and lines then just unbolt it from the front cover / timing gears. There should be a support underneath pump that supports the back end of it. The two bolts a real bear to access. In my opinion that is the hardest part of the job...removing and reinstalling these support bolts. Once it is unbolted it just slides out of the timing gears and lifts out. A real back breaker. It is a lot harder when it is the engine is in the truck and you are leaning over a frame rail to get to everything. It can only be installed the correct way or 180 degrees from the correct way so as long as you dont move the truck (or rotate the engine in this case) while the pump is out you will not loose the timing. There is machined metal puck that couples the pump to the timing gears much like the rubber part of a lovejoy coupler. It will fall out when you take remove the pump so be ready to catch it. The gasket to reseal the pump to the engine is still readily available from the Mack parts counter for about $12. I will look in my records to see if I can find a part number.

I believe that pump is the splined drive similar to the compressor drive ! except it is doweled and the pump can only go on one way!  one spline is cut away to allow for the dowel to time the pump! ( NOTE if you haven't done this already !) While the pump is off Replace that coolant hose compressor to the water pump It is a PIA to do after the pump is on!

Just sayin!

11 hours ago, Rob said:

Fred;

Is this the later block Glenn mentions that had the Allen socket screws installed? Wouldn't have a photo or snippet from a manual would you? I only have much older publications and literature.

Photo from ebay of a 1986 EM6-300 engine block. This one appears to have the AMBAC pump mounting pattern and I've never seen a block with the two plugs at the top of the pump drive gear area?

Thanks,

 

Hard to tell ! But if you look close you will see two tiny bumps on the block casting  at the outer edge for the robby bosch morph sequence it was defiantly on their minds at that point ! The idea was there even if the holes weren't drilled yet they were gearing up for it! as the the time came close to the change up they drilled the holes for the robby and corked them with the allen screws! till the morph came about! Even as far back as the 285 and  315 the robby was sometimes used! On The very odd occasion the robby was configured as a Maxidine  pump !

The blocks that had am ambac had the holes blanked off with Allen screws repaired lots of theses had to remove the pump and reseal the screws pia but that is what happens when you’re morphing to a different fuel system! Mack seemed to do a lot of this back in the day!

The one at the front behind the blo by can is the quickest 3 inch i1/4 pipe-nipple and an elbow adapted to what ever gauge you have ! you need to take the top off the bloby can to install the nipple! 

If you have a Mack 18 speed in plug the switch on on the cylinder on the back torque limit switch may have failed and caused a de rate

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I guess the sensor for the cam is the issue?? there is a spec for the distance to the cam gear from the sensor hole.  I dont have a listing for it, however, I have seen it posted here before. on some of these I have removed the teardrop shaped shim behind the sensor, and the darn thing would run right...... anyway, there is a spec for it.  mabey you can look back to find the post. 

There was a tsb  on this issue I think ! the front cover flexing or something like that if I remember right!

8 hours ago, james j neiweem said:

KS come on back!

Please!

That's shitty Bro !  but at least you found something! We just did a cam a month ago there were two e up pins sheared off and the the eup lobe was destroyed on number one ! at least you can see when the pins are broken the H rings are  almost impossible  to check! 

8 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

You can switch them over to a standard clutch cable as well too. 

Yup ! You have to change the arm on the side of the trans !

Bro ! Volvo construction version trucks have used this stuff for years here ,in Canada it seems to be ok! I've heard very few people bitch about it!  Ive heard the springs can break with out warning how ever  that's hear say and as with everything Volvo its Pricey to repair! our last garbage truck order from local district here had all M ride See how it goes 5 years from now! everything is built to throw away these days so the suspension will likely out last the emissions systems two fold! 

18 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

Any thoughts on adjusting the dynatard switches in the valve covers??. I had to remove them to blast/paint the covers and I broke one off. Was able to get the broke piece out of the cover and have a line on a replacement (from the guy I got the engine from) but can get a new one if needed. Because they were removed they will need to be reset but i have no clue how. 

nope no tricks for that dilemma

4 hours ago, 880joe said:

So can you use the spring loaded pushrods with the steel rollers?

4 hours ago, 880joe said:

So can you use the spring loaded pushrods with the steel rollers?

Sorry never tried it so I don't know ! Jojo they caution about dropping those ceramic lifters as they break or crack real easy!  

Just Saying 

It don't take much!

Valve cover gaskets are a pain on these ! When you put your new gaskets on clean the the gasket surface on the lid to a shine buy some  edlbrock Gasket  cinch/ contact cement . coat the valve cover and gasket once with the contact cement let it it go off then coat them again let it go off then stick the gasket on to the cover put the cover on the engine DRI don't use any sealer  dri and clean only!  

20 minutes ago, Licensed to kill said:

It is a 2 valve. Te harmonic balancer has a scale starting with "TC" and going up to 35 degrees. I assume "TC" means "top centre". Then there are the marks at 120 degree intervals marked for 2&5 and 3&4 for setting those valves. I have it set on "TC" with #6 rocking and #1 with lash so that should be #1 TDC firing. As it sits, exhaust is pretty close to 24thou but the intake is tight by a few thou. 

Your on the right track Move in firing order to the next cyls! not unusual to have the odd tight one! Push down on the exhaust adjuster to get the oil out I usually break the  jam nut loose turn the adjuster tight  down then back it off one half turn then set with the 24 !this gets all the oil out of the slave and avoids a false set!

13 minutes ago, Licensed to kill said:

And 16 intake?

yup if its a 4 valve there is two pointers valve set pointer and a timing pointer Be  careful to use the correct pointer 

9 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

I did a search and found a thread that lists 16thou intake and 24thou exhaust for a 676. Sounds reasonable but just want to confirm that this are the proper settings for a 1981 E6-350. Since the valves pretty much straddle the manifold ports it is not obvious as to which are int and which are exh but i am assuming that the ones with the big honking jam nut and some goofy looking centre with a snap ring are the exhaust, is this correct?. 

Yup ! That is the engine brake slave! 24thou!

12 hours ago, Bliue dm said:

So don't advance for better running.(more power) like 8 degrees 

the problem advancing is that the advance will work in all the wrong places on the power band it was programed for!

push rods are different on ceramic would cost you to covert !

Bro don't start throwing stuff at it till you have things looked at ! There at way to many things at play here! To guess with out experience !You may get lucky with the parts canon but for accuracy you ne a little experience! If its a fueling issue it is possible its injector cups!  Its important to give the whole story when talking about these issue when and how often cold hot starting any codes ? 

use the valve cover spec you say its there ?  6 degree is what they usually are!

On 6/26/2021 at 3:07 PM, Pipelayer said:

The transmission will not shift gears when in low side. No matter which gear you have it in, when you let up to shift it goes to neutral. I put a gauge in the air line that goes to the valve that shifts it. The pressure stays the same even when the transmission goes to neutral. What am I looking at to get it fixed? 

which air line are you measuring pressure at the two lines at the rear cyl run the range the two that go to the lid run the split which can be operated any stick position! 

You were stopped pretty close to that Volvo trash unit there hope Mrs Mack didn't get Any Volvo Germs! She may have to go get a shot for Volvoitis!😂