snowman_w900

I've got a good running Mack E6 factory 350 in my 1989 MH. It does not have a jake, but it does have the newer Robert Bosch pump.

I found a factory 400? E7 with a jake and its a low mile engine.  Its out of a 1996 CH and its doesn't have the mechanical governor style pump and linkage. 

Has anyone swapped one of these over to the mechanical E6 pump and nozzles?

Here's the E7 pump

just curious if anyone is running the Borg Warner 171702 or 701 turbo on an E6.

I'm not looking for big power, just wanna upgrade since the stock turbo is done.

Does anyone have a VIN# to a MH that came factory with aluminum air tanks? Or possibly the part numbers for them.

I know this thread is old, but im getting ready to replace both of my steel air tanks, and I'd rather go with the aluminum ones this time around instead of steel.

On 6/18/2020 at 6:23 PM, IH Farms 2 said:

Superliner frame to newer CH frame unknown year about 3 ft of double frame works great no issues after 3 yrs 

I've been really thinking bout this idea. I've got the newer cut off. I'm preparing it now to get it ready to go onto the old MH rails.

Did you weld it on the ends or basically just bolt and cross member it? 

18 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

I could turn one of my old parts trucks into a fine service truck with that. You have the springs and hangers?

Yes springs and hangers are still on it if you're interested.  

I have a spare drive line too if needed.

Selling a Mack CRD117 rear axle. Complete.  4:62 gears. It was a remanded unit from Mack not long before the rruck was parked. Located in Central Ohio.

Thanks for that info @kt_Engineer .

I haven't pulled the hubs or bearings on yet, but I an planning on doing that so I can replace seals and if needed I'll put fresh bearings in.

It looks like they reused the original aluminum hub pilot hubs from what I can tell at a glance, but after seeing your post ill be taking a closer look at everything. 

Would the older Dana housing be of better quality in your opinion than the Meritor of that era (2005) in your opinion? 

I bought a 2005 Mack CHU tandem axle daycab. Its got CRDPC92 / 93Mack rears on Mack/Hendrickson air ride.

I'm getting ready to sand blast the frame and repaint it. I was taking the identification tags off to keep from destroying them, and here's what I found:

Front rearend axle housing tag is the fist photo,  

And then rear axle housing tag is the second. 

The Meritor front housing is original,  the rear looks to have been replaced at some point.  Is there any pros or cons to the Meritor vs Dana?

14 minutes ago, alex g said:

I just sold a set of lower boxes for R model but I have new tops. You able to send a pic of what yours looks like?

Yes, ill get some pictures later today,  I appreciate it 

6 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

No one said Mack stuff was cheap. Most of it is built well but rust and corrosion protection was not a high priority until they started to galvanize R model metal cabs, fiberglass for the MH. All else was left to the elements. 

You want to play with the big dogs, buck-up. PAI has stuff but not everything. You can stay on the porch and whine like a school girl otherwise, or search for parts. I am constantly looking. LOL 

There are a few here that have parts but this is not the place for everything you may need. Some really good advise here as well.

You ain't  messing with a Yugo here. Good used parts are fine to, just have to find them which is half the fun of keeping these trucks road worthy if your's is a hobby truck. Work truck, got to have the parts now to keep them working and pay the price.

Yep. And honestly I'm searching high and low for the odd ball obsolete things I need. I've had a good amount of success so far

5 hours ago, Countrylife said:

I 

I have, I did make mine out but here is the info someone sent me 

So far it is looking like they are as follows,

 

55RU247  That shows to be the RH thread rod end. The part number  changes to 25023498 and the description is "spacer washer." That may be throwing the parts guys off

 

55RU247P2  That shows to be the LH thread rod end. The number changes to 25023499 and once again is described as a "spacer washer"

 

17QL278M  That shows to be the threaded rod. That number changes to 25022891

 

 

Good deal. Hopefully the dealers or someone in aftermarket will carry these.

I appreciate the info!

I was hoping to patch my old ones, but unfortunately they are to far gone. And since I need to replace both air tanks, I figure I'd go back new with everything and be done.

Yes, I saw the list price on the lower boxes today lol...whoooowe. i had to set down for a minute. 

On 5/31/2020 at 7:41 PM, Countrylife said:

Does anyone have a parts book for a 1983 MH 613? 

I am stumped on the shift linkage ball joints. The larger one I think is just something someone stuffed in there as it was not fitting correctly and the lower one does not seem to match anything I can measure out. I think I should start with what was supposed to be there and go from there. 

 

Thanks in advance for the help if anyone has a book. I wanted to buy one but they are few and far between it seems 

Cheers. 

 

@Countrylife have you had any luck on these shift linkage (tie rod ends) yet?

I'm thinking bout replacing mine also

I've been searching the site, but i can't find what I'm looking for.

i know someone here bought aftermarket lower battery boxes from PAI. They had to drill a couple holes to for the airtank brackets to work,  but otherwise was almost a perfect fit, but I think they were for an R or RW. I really can't remember. 

I'm needing a set for my MH and the dealers are pretty proud of these boxes. I need lower boxes and covers. Hoping someone has the part number for theres. @Vladislav @AZB755V8 @Mack Technician or anyone else, thank you

Definitely some good info here. I appreciate you guys posting this stuff. Sure does help on projects like this!

9 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

Sure, cut the old rails behind the cab after the fish belly about 3-4 feet past. Cut the new rails to slip over the old, splice should be about 3-4 feet. New rail should go right against the widening fishbelly. Top of new frame will be about 5/16 higher than before. Have enough room to bolt a crossmember at each end of the splice. Weld the end of each frame together. Have photos of this if you need, was done to my 88 Superliner. Old rails 9.5 new rear 10.5 high and can hardly tell it was spliced. Plus the wheel base was extended to 245" 

I really like this idea and I was wondering about where it widened towards the front if I could make it work....wow what a great idea you posted.

Would you mind posting as many pics of this as you can.  You can text them if that works better.

I really appreciate it @AZB755V8 !

Good evening guys,

I'm wanting to put air ride suspension and update my 1989 MH cabover. I found a very clean 2006 Mack CXN with CRDPC92/93 rears, 3:86 gears on Mack air ride. Cab is trashed, but the rest of the truck is great shape. 

Issue I'm having is frame rail height.  Has anyone ever added a newer Mack cutoff to an older Mack truck like im wanting to do?

I came up with this:

MH frame rail height 9.5" outside to outside

2006 CXN frame rail height is about 10.5" outside to outside

I'm trying to decide on how I need to do this other than buy new rails and drilling them. I'd like to use what I have.

I'm looking for opinions and ideas.

On 6/18/2017 at 12:13 PM, Black jack mack said:

Thanks for the help and advice. I'm going to try and rig up an electric wiper motor.

I'm wanting to do the the same thing. Does anyone have any ideas or info on doing an electric motor conversion on an MH?

I'm considering trying to get parts from an MR and seeing if I can do it.

3 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

Anyone stuck in a W900 for 20 years has my sympathies, After a day in an old KW conventional I was happy to go back to my Freightliner cabover. The W900 wasn't a bad truck for a 60s design, but it suffered from low volume maker Paccar's lack of access to a wind tunnel and the equipment to form compound curvature panels. Mack, GM, and Ford among others had access to better development and manufacturing tools and by the 70s all had better cabs than the Paccar conventionals. Heck, even the KW cabover had better ergonomics and probably aerodynamics than their conventional. Too bad you didn't go with a Mack, besides a better cab you'd probably get a full MPG better and another thousand pounds of payload, which would have paid for a new truck by now. 

 

SOLD!

no you cant buy it @maxidyne, cause its SOLD!!

2 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

You can fantasize all you want about what Billy Big Rigger will pay for a long hood with a yellow engine, but auctions give the best public measure of a trucks worth, which tends to be 10-20% of new price for a 10 or more year old truck. As for MPG, if you put on 100k or more miles on a year you need 8 MPG to be competitive now, look at the 9 MPG new Mack of Jamie Hagen that Mack featured on their website- the fuel savings alone are damn near making the payments! As for old trucks being cheaper, only if you've got a good one and run low miles. The big companies have people that spend all day looking at the costs and doing data analytics, and while they may keep some old trucks around for yard and short haul work, they buy new trucks for the long haul and mission critical work. Sorry, that's the financial realities of trucking.

Are you saying that a 1 man operation is to do business EXACTLY  the same way a large corporation does? Kind of a broad statement ain't it? 

Most auction trucks are trucks people get rid of because majority of them are:

Bank repos, trucks with cosmetic or mechanical issues,  short sales, wholesale buyers/ dealers who buy and sell trying to gain large profits. 

Those trucks normally have unknown history on maintenance and repairs. I'll pay retail price all day long for a well maintained older or newer truck with records to prove the upkeep. 

As far as the Billy Big Rigger comment, lol....  that's just another way of saying you're jealous of someone. I'm betting your old, retired and a diehard union guy with absolutely no first hand experience as an owner operator.

1 hour ago, Maxidyne said:

Looking at the auction results, while KWs have good resale that's a $20k truck at best. Cat parts ain't cheap, and if you figure in the cost of your labor the rebuild probably costs you $20k at least. So maybe should have sold it and bought a Mack that gets better MPG...

Auction results do not reflect the retail market prices,  and specs mean alot.

Look up a 2000 (11/99 build date ELD exempt) W900L,  3406E 550/1850, RTLO20918B, Eaton 402 3:55, 86" studio bunk, owner operator spec VIT interior,  286 wb truck in good to excellent condition and you'll find that the 20k number you reference is less than half of what one in nice shape will not only list at, it will bring it. 40K to 60k

Also, 6.5 is pulling a pressurized tanker with an empty weight of 43,000lbs or lowboy hauling machinery with an empty weight around 47,000. That's average mpg figured on loaded 1 way, empty the other.

10 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Hendrickson HAS will be the most popular for parts and availability. Good a ride as any. Check pads for axle cracks if off a quad.

I appreciate it Mack Technician.  I know it's very similar basically the same suspension international uses on alot of their trucks, so I'm hoping parts are still plentiful.

I'm trying to decide if I want to go back with Mack rears or Eatons.  I use Eaton 404 in my other trucks and have plenty of spares. I've never owned Mack rears and I'm not sure if they are superior to an Eaton hypoid gear style differential or not. 

Its speced with a E6 350 4 valve and Eaton 10 speed with Mack 4:62 I believe.  Not sure how the 350 Mack would do with a set of 3:90 Eatons behind it.