theakerstwo

1 hour ago, Mackpro said:

I’m interested as well . I remember years ago doing a mild bump up to a buddy’s dump truck , I called the guys at Rochester Diesel for some injector advice, super nice guys and learned a lot from them . Injectors, turbo , pump timing and cam timing would need to be perfect to get reliable 600 hp but I think it could be done . A high torque clutch and trans would be a must! 

And maybe more rpm which i am against

6 minutes ago, 880joe said:

Wasn't there some marine applications producing that kind of power

And for as a marine engine just thing about it ,its got the sea as a radiator

19 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Don’t think it’s possible Glenn? 

Well it will give us all something to talk about for a few days.I dont think the engine will live long with making 600 HP.

Its a dream.

Cause once you see it falling and your eyes get around to telling your brain that you need to move its too late like your only a spot of grease from now on.Please brace it up more than good.

I grease the bushing ever other saturday plus i install the cross stabilizer bar on the rear rear and that will help out some.

I have a  E7 rated for 350 that needs rear three cyl kit replaced which i have and both heads need rebuilt.The front cylinders have been changed about 150000 ago.I have a rebuilt pump set to 400 with one size over on injectors with maybe 75000 miles on them. A turbo that was matched by turbo shop in okc okla the rod and main brgs have maybe 75000 miles on them.New air comp about 3 months old.This engine has the cast iron flywheel housing also.New spare water pump.  5250.00 in Tulsa   With jakes

On a B and C model cummins we used 12 extendable pocket magnets and tied two together at the top with a rubber band.I used the same thing about 5 years ago on E7 mack.

I would say you should call mack first and then call around to the shops you want to do the work and ask them.They will tell you what it should cost plus most will tell you plus what else we find needing replaced.

Like Joey said dont get the lines mixed up because you cant call anyone and ask were this line goes.I have seen this happen many times.

But if the cam is being changed to me the lifters need to come out and be changed or resurfaced.

When i worked for mack we had a 5 gal bucket sitting over by the time clock that had some heavy stickey grease in it and we pulled the pan and dapped some grease on the lifter and i think it would hold a lifter up for weeks.

If i remember right a 20 stud head could use different size valve stems.

I was thinking a 85 engine would be a four valve but if they are both two valve and both use 20 studs per head they will work.

3 hours ago, Freightrain said:

673P with a set of screw on filters like I did to mine.  Did a 711 come with twin intakes like the 673P?

I remember lots of trucks getting the 4 square light treatment way back.  I suppose they wanted to make their old truck look "newer".  To me it looks odd and needs a single round headlight....but that's just me.

The 711 did have P manifolds

55 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

if i'm seeing correctly, the picture is of the rear/rear. not seeing a dif lock housing, shouldn't have air in the rear/rear. 

I did not read enough because i was thinking of trans seal.

Air hammer.It can beat faster than me and never gets tired.But ever time i have a x /ray done on my hands or arms it reminds me how carefull you need to be with them.I can pull most u/joints with the one i have.

I put a road choice clutch in my CH last summer.t took me a few to understand how the adjuster worked.

I worked for the mack dealer here in the mid 60s and dont remember any problems with this engine like that.Some were on propane and i remember the drivers talking about how many years they would run burning propane.They were hard on plugs and points.

Lean fuel mixture can sure do that.I saw this happen years back with a Giesel engine which was a V cummins converted to gas.I was am city truck and would burn one piston in a weeks time over and over.When some one found it the intake manifold was warped and letting it suck air in on one cylinder.

One of my engines was getting coolant in the oil so i found it was passing by #2 liner to block stop and i pull it to find its crack some.Mack sent a hand out to cut it and he had to go to .060 deep to clean it up.He told me i needed a block but he had done this before and no problem.I shimed it and i think i have about 150000 miles on it and it has not dropped as for as i know.Yes my manual say .030 max also but i said me running it i will know if it starts to leak compression so i will take a chance.

On the injector lines make sure and blow them out before you install.I have many lines laying in the shed and i think ever one of them may be stopped up.The last pump and lines i took off and stored i wrap tape around the ends.There is some kind of small bee like animal that gets in there and builds a nest inside of the lines.

As for as the blow/by you should make sure that its not steam from engine coolant in the oil.That will look like alot of blow/by.You can check the blow/by tube after it sits for a while and look for water drops.