theakerstwo

16 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

That is a NH220 and its color would be gold.The color has changed to a cummins beige.

I should say that is thee correct color for a 220.The later 250 and 335 was beige

Well if you do scrap it call me and i will haul it away.

You are welcome here

That is a NH220 and its color would be gold.The color has changed to a cummins beige.

I cant tell if all four wheel was jack up or not but if you run one side jacked up and other side on the ground then your running thru your diff gears and you cant do that very long or you can damage the side washers in the diff nest.We can only guess whats going on with a 10 second video.

You keep doing that your going to need a rear end.

You can gain some power by advancing on  diesel but you retard to save the engine

Those wind mills would work well if they put them in DC were they could catch all of the wind that blows from the capital.

Just now, Joey Mack said:

it's under warranty....... 1 year on tie rod ends and attached parts and 3-5 years on the steering box. The 3 trucks I brought in to Mack, didnt have Poppet adjustments that I could see, but when I learned they were under warranty, I put my tools away and took them to Mack..

The poppets are auto and they self adjust.If you move anything you need a tool to reset them.

You want the poppets to drop the pressure to about 50 psi just before the axle stops are contacted.

8 minutes ago, A1waste said:

 No both sides are equal at 1.4 steering wheel turns ( 500degrees ) from Center In both directions … it’s just not enough or atleast not as much as we are used to with our other 3 trucks … and the tires are still 8” from anything at full lock so it has plenty of room to spare 

To find out if your steer box is in center you have to start with wheel straight ahead and then disconnect the drag link from the steer box and then center your box and see if it will connect back up with out moving the box.

The factory procedure for this repair was to remove heads and they supplied a thin metal tube that you would push down in the oil hole in top of block till it bottom out and a tool was inserted into the tube to roll it out and that would seal the crack in the cast oil galley.I was involved in maybe two jobs like that.

In some cases the pitman arm is install onto the steering shaft to one side of center.This lets the steering box bottom out in one direction  too soon.I did a new freightliner mixer that the coustomer was unhappy with.This had two steer axles and i center the axle removed the drag link arm and set the steer box to center and reinstall drag link arm on the steer box.Back the poppet valve springs off and reset the axle stops then set the poppet valves to what their made to do.Coustomer was happy and ordered more freightliners.Ever one hoped that the factory did not get hear about this.On some trucks the tires will hit the frame or spring if you do this.

The oil on the valve cover goes thru it and connects to the rocker arms inside.If you remember a Y block ford had the came problems and a out side oil supply was done the same way.The factory oil supply to the top of the block could be seen by removing the side plates on the engine.

Not that i remember.

On the early engine and that maybe old enough to have one the oil passage from the cam brg boss in the block up to the top of the head supping oil to the heads for the rockers was a cast passage about 3/4 of a inche in diameter.This casting would crack sometines and leak oil out and the rockers would get dry.I have seen this done with the out side oil supply to oil the rockers.The newer 673 engines had a different casting and i think it was steel pipe coming up.

I was around alot of B models with add on sleepers years back.One thing you dont want is try making a walk in with it.The bracing and cross members of the rear of the cab is in the lower back and when you cut the back out to the floor you have no support.Most of the sleepers i have seen was a crawl thru and you have to cut the cab up higher that the top of the rear window to have a hole big enough and still maintain the support of the rear of the cab.

On 11/11/2021 at 12:33 PM, Mode said:

My Grandfather worked for Bray's trucking delivering fuel.  

I have forgotten about bray but remember the name.

The bad thing for me is I cant remember very much any more.I got me some of that covid 19 about eight weeks ago and it was bad.My memory is bad after that.I am not complaining necause it could have been bader that it was.

The best i can remember was the two valve with out a dynatard cam had timing marks on the flywheel and when the dyntard cam came out is when the two pointer was put on the front cover with marks on the damperner.      the two pointer will have a TC to be in the pump setting scale.The TCis not to be used for valve set.The E7 dampener does not have timing marks because they are on the flywheel.It is also a different bolt pattern than the E6 dampener.

Most ABS is only four channel.That means on the rear there is only two sensors for the four wheels.

That would be the ABS moduel activating the ABS accumlators for a problem and if all is ok no code is set.

The injector lines are different length.Use the vin # i give you and call mack for the correct lines.

I have got them from mack but use this vin # for parts   001141   RW 613

The P7100 will work if your E6 has the four mounting bolt holes in the block.The lines will be different and the drive gear is different.You will need a short adapter from block to pump.I have did this and used a E7 pump for spare for my E6 and E7.