Bollweevil

Soliciting. Trucks, Pictures, dang. How would you go about unsoliciting someone? Having pictures would make denial awkward.

Thought you might have found one of them caves, I could see you already have your pants off.

I had to dig some holes to set some posts for my garden, 28 of them 2 ft deep. I borrowed a one man power digger from my cousin. He showed me how to get it started, and how to operate the thing, a really neat little rig, but failed to tell me that if it got hung up, to turn it loose and step away. It about broke both my arms, and beat the heck out of both legs before I figured it out on my own.

You can spend a good sized piece of change on a generic set of bushing drivers, and find that for the most part you rarely have one that will fit anything you are working on that needs a bushing. If you can find a set with a good drive handle, and at least some of the tooling you actually need, then having individual piece's made at a local machine shop is the best way to go. Ask around, if someone knows anyone that does machine work at home or as a hobby. You don't kow what you can find til you ask.

The noise associated with a 12513, comes from the rear box. If you have to use it also check the auxillary drive gear fit on the main shaft. I have seen them loose enough to flop. If you can stand it it might be a good time for the 14613 rear.

You might be able to jack the lift axle high enough to to chain it in place without removing the wheels. The worse case could be that with the wheels off, and the axle not chained up, it would hang low enough for the drums to drag. If your first goal is to move it around to get in position to work on it, I would first try to chain it up. When you get it to where it will move around fairly easy, step back and look at it for a while. You have been a long time getting this far. Someone was using it like it is, and You already have on hand most of the stuff that it will take to make it work again. If it would go up and down on demand, you could live with it for a while, until you figure out which direction you want to go. The worse thing you can do is to start taking things off with out a plan. In one respect a truck is like a race car, it absolutely will not nickle and dime you to death. They will take every penny you can scrape together.

What sort of suspension does the tag axle have? The under dash valve is typical of an air tag set up. Flip the valve and screw the knob in or out to a predetermined pressure. Normally, just enough to equalize both axles when under a load. A neat thing about that set up was, back when the state highway scales could only weigh one axle pair at a time, they would set the scale platform for 32,000 plus allowance. If you were a little over gross you could crank the valve pressure up to shift weight to the steer, release the valve as the steer cleared the platform, and just keep rolling. Most of the tag axles that you saw were spring return. It doesn't take much to lift the axle at all. I don't see that what you have is poorly engineered at all. Figure out how it did work and fix it so that it will.

They look like a dog with it's ears clipped.

If it is not a hole what the heck is it? Actually it is about the right size to hold a bottle of Tom's world famous red pepper grilling sauce.

You might be ahead both time and money wise to consider new rails. If you have them apart anyway, and the rails are a straight type rail, that might be the way to go.

a worthless piece of junk

You will never find a better deal on a rear section.

Assuming that you are using 134A, I would expect to see suction pressure to be lower and head pressure a lot higher, if the system were fully charged.

I was thinking the same thing, now come on rhasler where is it.

Late one evening, or either very early the next morning, as the Circus passed through Gladys Va. An Orangutan escaped from his cage, and was immediately struck by a passing automobile. The distraught driver called the sheriff, and exclaimed, come quick, I have hit and killed something, and I don't even know what it is. After his arrival, and subsequent examination, the driver asked the sheriff, well what is it. The sheriff shook his head and said, I don't rightly know. But judging by the callus's on its ass, and the furrows on its brow, it is either a long haul trucker or a domino player.

There are times that are especially annoying when trying to adjust a Mack cable operated clutch. Replacing the worn fork and shaft bushings is a good start. Worn clevis's and pins can be compensated for if not too badly worn. Since you are not replacing the clutch, it should be close. The actual clutch adjustment is the same on any Spicer clutch. the linkage, and cable mounting points are problems at times. Setting up the clutch brake is the first order of business. The clutch brake itself SHOULD NOT be the limit of the clutch pedal travel. With the pedal at the absolute end of it's travel, adjust the linkage so the clutch brake is just snug. Then go back to the clutch. with just enough pressure on the fork to pull the clearance out of the bearing you should have 1/2 in between the bearing and brake. A 1/2 in drill bit is a good guage. At rest you should have 1/8 in clearance between the fork and the bearing. This should translate to 1 1/2 to a little more pedal travel at the top. As the clutch wears, free travel at the top goes away, As Glenn said go back to the clutch, when adjusted back to 1/2 in, you get the free travel back without messing up the clutch brake