staxx

believe its nos its for sure new

Holy smoke thats a nice B !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I might be able to get a package deal but not sure what its all worth.

What would a good set of fenders hood inner fenders new door glass and new in the box grill surround be worth ?

Turbo needs a little boost or positive pressure to keep oil from leaking around seal this is normal for most of these turbos.

Gasket if only coming out around tube if driping from rear housing clamp the seals in turbo are worn or truck is idling too much ,the turbo seals need a little positive boost pressure against them to seal well , and at idle there is no boost.

I,ll take some how about a package deal for me, 84superdog, MikeS

Had 3 trucks here in Nashville that got submergered for a week under water during the flood we had sevral years ago , more like septic sludge . Drained all fluides engine ,trans rears removed turbo intake piping and poured water out turned engine over by had installed new batterys and fuel and they are still running working today. These were 2006 model macks with alot of electronics . Lets see some pics of the damage and we can go from there.

Gave a bulldog to a friend that drives a pete and told him to put it on the dash , now when anyone asks him what he has under the hood makin that truck run and he says its not whats under the hood its the mack bulldog on the dash running that kitty cat down .

Could be debris on engine flywheel time/rpm sensor . And do not put 12volts or ground to anything your vmac module will live longer .

E-tec was out in 97 Rember because it was the first etec are shop had pulled out had some issues and sent it back to mack , the whole shop was out there checking it out .

I could go for a e7 regrind ..isky use to make a replacement cam at one time so called souped up as I remember dont know if they still sell it though.

Are you talking about the e7 or etec big differance on cam etec has rollers not saying it couldnt be done just dont know anyone that has had it done to a etec engine cam.

The older e7 cams where ok to regrind have no issues there but etec,s go threw sevral heat harding processes that a regrind cannot supply you with.

Mack has had way to many issues with the cams in the E-tec engine I would NOT suggest regrinding camshaft !!!!!!!

So you have a scan tool what is the timing doing ,does it increase with rpm or not make sure the timing sensor on side of injection pump is srewed all the way in . Sounds like the rack is sticking though .

If your engine had a major issue it wouldnt be running so good , when cam lobe go down you get poping noise threw the air cleaner or exhaust because valve does not open if valves were bent you would have no compression on that cylinder so would be a dead cylinder . I have had brand new off the shelve injectors be defective many times and just think about how small the holes are on the injector tips if any debris got in fuel line or at injection pump its going to try to be forced threw the injector which will cause injector nozzel to stick open or closed slow to open bad spray pattern etc . Injectors also does not like water which when under psi acts like sand blasting notgood . Your rockershafts are most likely worn out because you sad it looks dry up there ,the oil passages in arms are blocked will crap you can remove rocker shafts and inspect also make sure you valve springs are ok not broken there are inner and outter springs . My bet would be a injector with bad spray pattern or sticking but you have good power I would drive it.

If lifter is damaged cam most likely has damage also so... do not reuse cam unless you are for sure it is ok , will need to remove unit pumps and rollers also to get cam out cam gear gets pressed off and heated up to be reinstalled.

Just because your not using your a/c doesnt mean the a/c presure switch is having issues , the pressure switch will turn on the the fan even if a/c is off and need to check ecu module connections for contamination rust ,coolant oil , fuel . You should have 2 coolant sensors the one on the side of the water manifold is for your temp gauge on the dash the one on the end of the manifold is for the ecu that controls your fan. Check and make sure were the wires come off the sensor at the back of the head and down has not rubbed or shorted the wiring there is a clamp back there that is good at rubbing on the wires .

I have driven a few M-drives and they are real smooth nothing like the eaton autoshifts way differant , allison is still king of vocational market and they are coming out with a new trans that will be a cross between the auto/manual trans so I have herd....

Only if you tighten head bolts down without cleaning out head bolt holes have I seen block decks crack , now the heads crack between exhaust valves all the time because of running high exhaust temps .

The A/C high pressure and coolant temp control fan drive check connections make sure a/c is working proporly also the low coolant sensor in upper surge tank are known for failing and leaking coolant into wire harness and following into engine ecu so check ecu connection for contamination also

You will also need to check the H-rings these hold the lifter in position and if it has been knocked loose you will need to relace , which involves removing cylinder head.

Valves dont stick if they do they get bent , most likey problem is a defective injector nozzel need to pull them and pop test injectors . Cylinder temps dont really tell much unless you had a completely dead cylinder.

I would check with your mack dealer first , there were a few factory programs to fix the take off power issues .