msbulldog601 Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 Hello lately I’ve been having an issue that it takes several times for my engine to go ahead and start up. It usually takes one turn of the key and it fires up no issue. I was thinking it’s the batteries since the battery volt gauge is in the “yellow” area not “green 12-14 volts” Area but I replaced the batteries with new ones it the volt gauge is still in the”yellow”... Do you think the culprit is the alternator? I’ve never changed it since I had the truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 If the bolts don’t climb after the engine starts it is likely not charging! Most likely the alt.the relay on the fire wall can also be faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 (edited) With engine off a battery should be around 12 volts; engine running it needs to be over 13.2 volts to charge. Your battery is typically fine unless it drops below 9-10 volts while trying to crank. Usually only one cell goes bad in one battery; we diagnose and just replace the one battery when we have suspect it. You need to give more info. Is it cranking over slowly? Or cranking fine and just not firing off? Does nothing happen until you've bumped the key a few times? All these scenarios are caused by different things, but we don't know what exactly your symptoms are. Edited September 21, 2019 by JoeH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbulldog601 Posted September 21, 2019 Author Share Posted September 21, 2019 28 minutes ago, JoeH said: With engine off a battery should be around 12 volts; engine running it needs to be over 13.2 volts to charge. Your battery is typically fine unless it drops below 9-10 volts while trying to crank. Usually only one cell goes bad in one battery; we diagnose and just replace the one battery when we have suspect it. You need to give more info. Is it cranking over slowly? Or cranking fine and just not firing off? Does nothing happen until you've bumped the key a few times? All these scenarios are caused by different things, but we don't know what exactly your symptoms are. The engine cranks over fine it’s just not firing up until after a few times to be exact about after three times it fires up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 (edited) That rules out batteries and alternator. Those would result in a weak/slow crank speed, and if the battery is low enough you'd likely here a rapid clicking with no turnover. What year truck, and what motor is in it? That will help narrow down for others what fuel system the truck has so that someone here can chime in. It could be a 1990 with an e6 motor, could be a mid 90s with an e7, or it could be around 2000 with an etech motor. The E7 had mechanical fuel systems, electronic over mechanical, and the etech motor has "EUP's" which are individual solenoid injector pumps for each cylinder, run off additional lobes on the camshaft. Without knowing what you're driving it's hard to give an answer. If it's an etech it could be the camshaft position sensor on the front of the timing cover. With an e6 or mechanical e7 it could be the shut off rack sticking in the injector pump, or if the shut-off lever is operated by an electric over air switch then the solenoid on that could be failing. If it's a computerized engine, do you ever have an "active" fault code? This would be indicated by a lightning bolt lit up on the dash. Edited September 21, 2019 by JoeH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbulldog601 Posted September 21, 2019 Author Share Posted September 21, 2019 1 hour ago, JoeH said: That rules out batteries and alternator. Those would result in a weak/slow crank speed, and if the battery is low enough you'd likely here a rapid clicking with no turnover. What year truck, and what motor is in it? That will help narrow down for others what fuel system the truck has so that someone here can chime in. It could be a 1990 with an e6 motor, could be a mid 90s with an e7, or it could be around 2000 with an etech motor. The E7 had mechanical fuel systems, electronic over mechanical, and the etech motor has "EUP's" which are individual solenoid injector pumps for each cylinder, run off additional lobes on the camshaft. Without knowing what you're driving it's hard to give an answer. If it's an etech it could be the camshaft position sensor on the front of the timing cover. With an e6 or mechanical e7 it could be the shut off rack sticking in the injector pump, or if the shut-off lever is operated by an electric over air switch then the solenoid on that could be failing. If it's a computerized engine, do you ever have an "active" fault code? This would be indicated by a lightning bolt lit up on the dash. Okay 1997 E7... I have this question what about the battery gauge still be in the “yellow” below 12-14 “green area voltage” with brand new batteries? If I try crank the truck if it takes more than the three times then it does give me that slow crank... Another thing I noticed if I park the truck around 11pm when I make it home get back up around 5:30 to start the day it cranks right up first try.... that’s what me thinking the batteries because the gauge but I replaced the batteries last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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