doubleclutchinweasel Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Hi, Everybody!Well, as soon as I identify definite sources for all the bits and pieces on the front end of the old R600, I will start pulling the front end apart so I can replace the kingpins and bushings.I am working on a "dolly" right now, which should help me to pull the tire/wheel/hub assembly off. Of course, I probably won't have the correct spindle nut wrench (I never do!).Then, I guess I get to fight those ancient bolts/nuts holding the backing plate on. Yea! More rusty fasteners! Thank God for PB-Blaster.Then, maybe I can get to the knuckles themselves.As far as I can tell, this axle (FA-535) uses the "bushing on the bottom / needle bearing on the top / thrust bearing underneath" setup with tapered pins (301 SQ 46B kit - see image below). The kits now appear to come with the "drive plug" to close off the top, like the later models. Mine actually uses the bolt-on cap. But, as near as I can tell, the new "B" kit will work for either configuration.I plan to replace the tie rod (it's bent on the end), the tie rod ends, the drag link end, the kinpins/bushings, and all the oils seals and such on the spindles. I have (hopefully) good part numbers on everything, and am currently confirming availability of some of the smaller parts from multiple sources.I am hoping that the needles in the bearings have not worn through the races, and started digging into the bore in the knuckle itself. If they have, then a new needle bearing won't live long in that bore! If the knuckle bores are damaged, then a whole new game plan might be needed.Anybody ever seen one wear that far? Or, is most of the wear concentrated on the pins, as it should be?Kent Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Did mine way back whenEasiest king pin job ever. I was used to Ford pickup twin I beams and beat'n my brains out. I had less then 3 hrs on getting truck totally dismantled(starting at ground zero). If I recall the passenger side was the bad one. It was just the roller bearing, no damage to the spindle itself. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Yeah, that looks a lot like mine! I hope that, when I get in there, mine is serviceable, too.I figured it would take longer to disassemble the hubs/brakes/linkages than it would to do the actual knuckles! I've already cleaned the surrounding areas the best I could, and have soaked everything down with penetrant. Hopefully, the backing plates will un-bolt fairly easily.Looks like I will be delayed a bit due to the weather turning colder and the days getting shorter. It's freakin' dark when I get home...and the time hasn't even changed yet.This truck has the oil-filled Stemco hubs on it, too. So, i figure I'll do a little work in there while I'm at it. I hope the pressed-on seal rings aren't too badly worn, as new ones cost WAY more than the seals themselves.According to my Mack service manual, the bearings are retained by the nut/lockwasher/locknut system, rather then the pinch-type nut. I have no idea what size spindle nut wrench that takes. Got any ideas? Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Just for kicks...Here are a few shots of the underneath. I have removed 40+ years worth of Grease-crete, and everything has been soaked down with PB Blaster. This helps loosen everything up, and makes the remaining crud a little easier to remove.Once I get going, I don't think this will be too bad...as long as I dont run into any "unexpected" problems in there!Kent 1 Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Did mine way back whenEasiest king pin job ever. I was used to Ford pickup twin I beams and beat'n my brains out. I had less then 3 hrs on getting truck totally dismantled(starting at ground zero). If I recall the passenger side was the bad one. It was just the roller bearing, no damage to the spindle itself.So, I ordered the kingpin/bushing set this morning. Should have it this week some time...maybe in time to work on it this weekend.I was debating whether to pull the wheel/tire/hub off as a single unit, or to take the wheel/tire off first. Any advice?I'm assuming you put new seals in the hubs, while you had them out?Also, did you "drive" your bushings/seals in & out? Or did you have access to an arbor press?And, in general, anything you might remember about this, and would be willing to share, would be much appreciated.I hope to have some pictures to post, once I get it all torn down.I'm just hoping and praying the knuckles are good, once i get them stripped down. I'm due for SOMETHING to go easy on this thing!Kent Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leversole Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Did my FA-517 last year...looks like the same style and parts as my kit...I "borrowed" some large bushing drivers from work and pounded the new seals in...the hardest part of the job by far was seperating the steering arm joint to get the knuckle off!! Other than that, the job went pretty good...I took the tire/rim off seperately as I neede to blast and paint all of the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Did my FA-517 last year...looks like the same style and parts as my kit...I "borrowed" some large bushing drivers from work and pounded the new seals in...the hardest part of the job by far was seperating the steering arm joint to get the knuckle off!! Other than that, the job went pretty good...I took the tire/rim off seperately as I neede to blast and paint all of the parts.Did yours use the needle bearing on the top side?Yours have brakes on this axle?Kent Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leversole Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Did yours use the needle bearing on the top side?Yours have brakes on this axle?KentYes, needle bearings on the top and yes, front brakes.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Actually I didn't have to replace the seals, as they were in good shape then. Though I did just replace the drivers side this past summer. I had to replace the wear sleeve on the spindle, as that was the cause for the seal to leak. That was the reason I found out the seal was out, it got grease on the brakes and it started to pull when I applied the brakes.The wear sleeve came off pretty easy with just some concentrated heat in one spot and it came right loose and slid off with a screwdriver.I would suggest removing the tires from the hubs. Much easier/lighter. Plus when you go to install the bearings and set the preload you won't have this big tire to deal with. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 Thanks everybody. I took the tires & wheels off. Drained the oil-filled hubs. Took off the nuts & washers. Pulled the outer bearings out. Backed off the brakes. Pulled the hubs off. The wear rings came out with them. They are o-ringed to the spindles, not pressed on. Took the backing plates off.I need to get the seal rings out of the seals. They are indexed by a pin, so I will need to install them first before the hubs go back on.Tomorrow I'll start taking the knuckles apart.Wish me luck!Kent Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Mine must of had original wear rings, as they were shrunk on, but still o-ringed. There was no index hole to keep it from spinning. The replacement Stemco version needed a small hole drilled in the spindle to index it. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 Mine must of had original wear rings, as they were shrunk on, but still o-ringed. There was no index hole to keep it from spinning. The replacement Stemco version needed a small hole drilled in the spindle to index it.Mine had the seal ring slipped-on, with an o-ring seal, and an index pin. The two sides were different. One had a captive o-ring in a groove in the seal ring. One had a recess in the seal ring which located the o-ring. Must have been replaced at different times.Took the knuckles to work today and used the arbor press to make the in-and-out a little easier. Also cleaned on them some.I got everything back together this evening. Worked on it about 4 hours yesterday, and about 10 today. So busy I forgot to take pictures! Since you did yours so much faster, you must be a lot better mechanic than I am! Either that, or you had all the right tools and parts. My wife said you may have also had a pit crew! Took me the better part of an hour to indicate the wheels in and get them torqued-down nice and straight.Drove it down the road. Much less wallowing and wobbling in the front end. Steering noticeably tighter. Got back home and topped-off the oil levels in the hubs by flashlight.Have a hood ornament coming. Should be here next week. That may be all for this winter. Well, maybe replace the LQ-2 valve for the front brakes (leaks a little). But, that's not too bad.More to come...Kent Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Nope, always fly solo when working for the most part. Unless I need a specific set of hands to carry/hold something. Heck I did my whole stretch/bunk project all by myself. No extra hands at all(beside the bobcat to lift the bunk on). I do work at a fast pace. Just my nature. I like to just get it done. Having the right tools helps too.Using my "new" 3/4" impact, it only takes a few moments to get a wheel on straight. By hand/breaker bar it took alot longer. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Nope, always fly solo when working for the most part. Unless I need a specific set of hands to carry/hold something. Heck I did my whole stretch/bunk project all by myself. No extra hands at all(beside the bobcat to lift the bunk on). I do work at a fast pace. Just my nature. I like to just get it done. Having the right tools helps too.Using my "new" 3/4" impact, it only takes a few moments to get a wheel on straight. By hand/breaker bar it took alot longer.I used no impact tools. That's some difference. Also, I had a lot of cleaning to do. Still, you be smoking'!Kent Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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