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Granite dash paint peeling


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My company does interior work, but we sub dye work to a professional with a mobile service. As with any vocation , there are professionals and there are hacks. Dash pads provide a special challenge because they are molded plastic or vinyl, which is made from petrochemicals. Paint doesn't adhere well to oil. Understand that i am speaking in generalities because I am not familiar with your particular dash, just dashes in general. The GM Suburbans, Silverado's and Denali's have the same problem. The repair sequence for plastic, vinyl, and leather is the same as for outside bodywork and paint. The work is in the surface prep and color match. The actual spraying is gravy. The guy who does our work has changed to a waterborne dye that has had great results. The sequence is , cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol, lightly sanding with a fine grit to remove the edge where it is peeling,which can be a challenge because some of them will continue to peel without feather edging, which will be visible in the finished product if you're picky, then cleaning again with alcohol, then mixing the proper color and spraying with airbrush or preval. If you want to do-it-yourself quick and dirty,Sem dye and and prep cleaners are available at most auto parts stores. The main thing to remember is cleaning the surface is most important. If you do it yourself, use an all purpose cleaner first (soap an water), then the denatured alcohol. If you can find a pro who is not a hack expect to pay 75-150 for the repair. Try to keep the repair area as small as possible and use low pressure when spraying or you'll have overspray everywhere.You can also use the denatured alcohol to clean the instrument cluster so that masking tape will stick to it. If you're looking for a reference to a pro. Call the new car manager at a high line auto dealer,like Lexus or Jaguar for a reference. The hacks are working the used car departments of low line dealers. Hope this information is useful.

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My company does interior work, but we sub dye work to a professional with a mobile service. As with any vocation , there are professionals and there are hacks. Dash pads provide a special challenge because they are molded plastic or vinyl, which is made from petrochemicals. Paint doesn't adhere well to oil. Understand that i am speaking in generalities because I am not familiar with your particular dash, just dashes in general. The GM Suburbans, Silverado's and Denali's have the same problem. The repair sequence for plastic, vinyl, and leather is the same as for outside bodywork and paint. The work is in the surface prep and color match. The actual spraying is gravy. The guy who does our work has changed to a waterborne dye that has had great results. The sequence is , cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol, lightly sanding with a fine grit to remove the edge where it is peeling,which can be a challenge because some of them will continue to peel without feather edging, which will be visible in the finished product if you're picky, then cleaning again with alcohol, then mixing the proper color and spraying with airbrush or preval. If you want to do-it-yourself quick and dirty,Sem dye and and prep cleaners are available at most auto parts stores. The main thing to remember is cleaning the surface is most important. If you do it yourself, use an all purpose cleaner first (soap an water), then the denatured alcohol. If you can find a pro who is not a hack expect to pay 75-150 for the repair. Try to keep the repair area as small as possible and use low pressure when spraying or you'll have overspray everywhere.You can also use the denatured alcohol to clean the instrument cluster so that masking tape will stick to it. If you're looking for a reference to a pro. Call the new car manager at a high line auto dealer,like Lexus or Jaguar for a reference. The hacks are working the used car departments of low line dealers. Hope this information is useful.

I just learned something else new - thanks for the info!

I also like the work "hack". That kind of says it all.

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What has been stated is pretty much the same rule of thumb I follow with the exception of using isopropyl alcohol rather than denatured. Denatured alcohol is a very good product but can attack the finish on these newer generation autos and trucks. Isopropyl is much more neutral and will not attack them. The purpose of either solvent is that they readily remove surface oils and tend to "wick" oils contained within the plastic to the surface. Dishwashing, or car wash soap and water is the best place to start. After a thorough washing using a soft "natural bristle" brush and a soft terry cloth towel to scrub with, allow the surface to dry. As mentioned feather the best you can with fine grit sandpaper and water/dishsoap in a spray bottle to the area you are working with. Keep the surface wet as you sand to not allow the paint to "roll" from the surface due to leaching of entraped oils within the plastic. This is caused by heat and lessens the bond of paint to the substrate. After one is happy with their sanding, wipe the area clean at least twice with isopropyl alcohol again to remove any trace oils/contaminates. When dry spray the area with a plastic adhesion promoter with a light mist coat. Allow this to dry the recommended amount of time, and get it covered with your modified for plastic painting color without delay. Plastic paint is the same as automotive paint with a special base to allow it to adhere to plastic. The plastic adhesion promoter actually opens the pores on the plastic substrate enhancing adhesion of the topcoat. The whole subject of cleanliness cannot be overemphasized. It must be clean for satisfactory results.

By the way, the isopropyl alcohol I refer to is 91% strength, not 70% that is much more common in the drugstores.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Thanks for setting the record straight on the alcohol Rob. Dang Rob, you always have the right answer, but when you hadn't replied to Reel Addiction about his dash problem, I thought that maybe you were busy with the Missus doing what it is you do with the Missus when you're not busy helping everyone else with their truck problems. So I was thinking this might be one of those situations where I can take care of some of Robs" light work".Sorry I got that alcohol thing mixed up, but I appreciate you setting it straight because, as you say, the whole subject of cleanliness cannot be overemphasized.Anyway, hope you and the Missus had a proper diversion. You do seem a little more relaxed.

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