RowdyRebel Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 I'm gonna go with "YUP!" Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpwlker Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 think you need bigger axles under that thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 think you need bigger axles under that thingI ain't gonna disagree with you. These are only 38K Mack rears...and I'm usually 35-35.5K on 'em. I'd love to upgrade to 46K rears...but holding off 'til I have the money to change the suspension over to either a Hendrickson AR2 or a Raydan Air Link....and if TOO many extra holes need to be punched in the frame rails, perhaps even upgrading those (they are only 1/4" thick now)....and while I'm doing that, I might shorten the wheelbase just a tad....It's a work in progress. Just upped the springs on the steer to 16K....still have to do the axle. Right now, its "if it ain't broke, don't fix it...and if it DOES break, upgrade when possible".The broken piece is the output shaft on that front drive axle...that's the short shaft between the 2 drive axles on my catwalk. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaddeusW Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 OUCH. Quote -Thad What America needs is less bull and more Bulldog! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Bet that went BANG! Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 OUCH.....said it when it happened....and I'll probably say it again when I get the repair bill. Bet that went BANG!Funny thing is, I had just pulled another O/O out....got his petercar stuck trying to turn around at the site I was SUPPOSED to unload at....then they decided they needed me up at this other site. Don't know why I didn't put the chain away....just put it on the floor between the seats instead of stowing it away in the side box where it belongs. When I broke? The chain was handy....but they needed a road grader to pull me up to where I was going to be unloading after I had removed the short shaft...wasn't another truck capable of pulling a broken Mack. Even then, when the grader would start spinning it's wheels, I'd lock in and slip it in low to help out...didn't want the CHAIN (3/8" G70) to break, too. Once unloaded, I stuffed a rag in the hole and locked in the power divider to get back out to the paved road....then since oil was obviously splashing out, I made a cover out of a piece of mud flap, but when I checked the oil level, I couldn't even touch the oil with my finger....bone friggin dry. Lost all the oil on my way back out to the paved road, had no clue how far it was to the nearest place to buy some gear oil, and wasn't about to burn up a $3000 carrier to save a couple hundred dollar tow.......So, I called for a hook. Then I made sure the truck was positioned nice & straight, where it would be easy to hook to, and easy to pull out with once it was on the hook, and then proceeded to prep the truck tow while I waited. Since the short shaft was already out, and I didn't want the carrier turning on the front axle (no oil) I pulled the axle shafts on the front drive axle & secured everything on the catwalk with a 1/4" chain & binder and a few 120 lb rated zip ties. Disconnected the blue line and electrical cord to the trailer and secured them out of the way, and then plugged in the air line valve and adapter (the place I called uses Lincoln type air fittings...I just use the standard ones) into my air tank by the time the wrecker showed up so that all I had to do was bolt on the axle hub covers he brought while he plugged his red line into my air tank, blue line & electrical to the trailer, and chained up the front axle. Probably the easiest tow he'd ever done...all the dirty work was done by the time he showed up.I think I need to make some hub covers, though...the ones he had that fit were plastic, and the one leaked pretty bad. Good thing the differential had plenty of oil even if the carrier didn't. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpwlker Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Damn I thought you had atleast 40's. 46's are the way to go with what you do. Watch in shortening the wb though. make sure you don't go to short and hurt the bridge and not haul as much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 Damn I thought you had atleast 40's. 46's are the way to go with what you do. Watch in shortening the wb though. make sure you don't go to short and hurt the bridge and not haul as muchI've got a 240" wheelbase....all I want to do is knock maybe 2' out...take it down to a 215" or 216", which is what I had been looking for when I stumbled on this one. It had every other spec I wanted, and the price was right....so I compromised on the wheelbase.I was quoted $2500 to cut 2' out of the frame and rejoin the front & back, but I'd rather not do that. If I'm going to change the wheelbase, I'll get new frame rails....so until I can afford to do that, it'll stay right where it is. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpwlker Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I've got a 240" wheelbase....all I want to do is knock maybe 2' out...take it down to a 215" or 216", which is what I had been looking for when I stumbled on this one. It had every other spec I wanted, and the price was right....so I compromised on the wheelbase.I was quoted $2500 to cut 2' out of the frame and rejoin the front & back, but I'd rather not do that. If I'm going to change the wheelbase, I'll get new frame rails....so until I can afford to do that, it'll stay right where it is.240 isn't to bad. It is alot better then my 294" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaddeusW Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I've got a 240" wheelbase....all I want to do is knock maybe 2' out...take it down to a 215" or 216", which is what I had been looking for when I stumbled on this one. It had every other spec I wanted, and the price was right....so I compromised on the wheelbase.I was quoted $2500 to cut 2' out of the frame and rejoin the front & back, but I'd rather not do that. If I'm going to change the wheelbase, I'll get new frame rails....so until I can afford to do that, it'll stay right where it is.Wait, they were going to cut 2 feet from the middle and weld the rear section back on? Never do that, remove the axles, cut the rear of the frame down 2' and then slide the axles back under. Quote -Thad What America needs is less bull and more Bulldog! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpwlker Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Wait, they were going to cut 2 feet from the middle and weld the rear section back on? Never do that, remove the axles, cut the rear of the frame down 2' and then slide the axles back under.I would agree on this I didn't read into this at first. why splice the frame when you can cut the excess off and redrill the holes. With alot of drill bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 Wait, they were going to cut 2 feet from the middle and weld the rear section back on? Never do that, remove the axles, cut the rear of the frame down 2' and then slide the axles back under.I wasn't too keen on the idea of cutting & splicing either, although it really isn't any different than the "stretching" process....which is why I decided to just wait until I can afford new frame rails, and then get some the length I want that are a little stouter than the ones I currently have. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpwlker Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Idk what frame rails go for but wouldn't it be cheaper to get a rolling wreck and transfer everything from your truck to the wrecked unit. and have parts left Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 Idk what frame rails go for but wouldn't it be cheaper to get a rolling wreck and transfer everything from your truck to the wrecked unit. and have parts leftI ain't in no hurry to get it done....it's more of a long-term project....unless it needs to be done sooner (i.e. if I break one). I plan on having this truck a while....it's only 10 years old. Hell, it's the newest vehicle I've got! Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Shortening it would be easier just sliding tandems forward and cutting off extra. I would not like a dumptruck that has been cut in the middle. Too much flexing in that application and I can see cracks in the near future. Drilling a few dozen holes isn't that big of deal. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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