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E7 454


sivrtnge2
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Hello All once again I have a problem with the truck engine and Jakes or stealth or whatever. There is no stopping power with the jake setup on my truck. Its a 1997 Mack Ch613 with a E7 454. The vin on truck is 077766. I can hear the jakes come on but nothing changes when they are engaged. Also what can we do about the engine eating turbos. This is the forth turbo we're getting ready to put on. Two of them just snapped the shaft in half and one is eating the blades. Please help with these issues if possible. By the way the engine has been rebuilt with no change in the jakes or turbo use.

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Hello All once again I have a problem with the truck engine and Jakes or stealth or whatever. There is no stopping power with the jake setup on my truck. Its a 1997 Mack Ch613 with a E7 454. The vin on truck is 077766. I can hear the jakes come on but nothing changes when they are engaged. Also what can we do about the engine eating turbos. This is the forth turbo we're getting ready to put on. Two of them just snapped the shaft in half and one is eating the blades. Please help with these issues if possible. By the way the engine has been rebuilt with no change in the jakes or turbo use.

Were the engine brakes rebuilt at the same time that the engine was rebuilt? Make sure the Front brake assembly was installed on the front head and that the Rear brake assembly was installed on the rear head (there is an id tag on the housings that says which housing is which). Make sure the valve and brake adjustments were set correctly as well. I think your engine should have the alternate exhaust lash setting. Were you losing turbos before the rebuild or did that start after the engine was rebuilt?

Regarding the turbo failures:

Clean any oil that has accumulated in the inlet manifold and the charge air cooler.

Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts.

Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold (and EGR cooler if applicable).

Inspect and clean the turbocharger oil supply line and oil drain tube.

Replace the turbocharger mounting flange gasket, oil drain tube gasket(s) or O-ring (as applicable) and the turbocharger mounting studs and nuts.

Change the engine oil and filters.

Pre-lube the replacement turbocharger.

Additionally you need to make sure the correct turbo is being installed and that it is the current revision level. The turbos make look the same but they are different.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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If the exhaust blades are being chewed up it may be the exhaust manifold (rusting) deteriorating on the inside and flaking off,,,,,killing the blades

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Thanks for hearing me out.

You can have the soap box now---------JIM

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If the exhaust blades are being chewed up it may be the exhaust manifold (rusting) deteriorating on the inside and flaking off,,,,,killing the blades

Can't stress this enough!!!!

Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts.

Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold.

take the whole intake piping set up apart right back to the air cleaner to check for peices and replace the air cleaner while your there!I have seen peices imbeded in the air cleaner from turbo failures. they can recycle them selves thru the new turbo and your back to square one ya realy need to dump out the after cooler as well, (althou it is a good filter) :D little bits can somtimes get thru and if they dont burn up in the engine they could possibly go thru!

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Can't stress this enough!!!!

Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts.

Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold.

take the whole intake piping set up apart right back to the air cleaner to check for peices and replace the air cleaner while your there!I have seen peices imbeded in the air cleaner from turbo failures. they can recycle them selves thru the new turbo and your back to square one ya realy need to dump out the after cooler as well, (althou it is a good filter) :D little bits can somtimes get thru and if they dont burn up in the engine they could possibly go thru!

Too true fjh. I've actually seen compressor wheels on AC engines blow the cover off of the air cleaner housing and turbine wheels knock holes in the steel exhaust pipes. If it can put holes in steel pipe it can easily embed itself in aluminum and plastic.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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Hello All once again I have a problem with the truck engine and Jakes or stealth or whatever. There is no stopping power with the jake setup on my truck. Its a 1997 Mack Ch613 with a E7 454. The vin on truck is 077766. I can hear the jakes come on but nothing changes when they are engaged. Also what can we do about the engine eating turbos. This is the forth turbo we're getting ready to put on. Two of them just snapped the shaft in half and one is eating the blades. Please help with these issues if possible. By the way the engine has been rebuilt with no change in the jakes or turbo use.

Hi, how is the oil pressure to turbo? low?

Grant

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Were the engine brakes rebuilt at the same time that the engine was rebuilt? Make sure the Front brake assembly was installed on the front head and that the Rear brake assembly was installed on the rear head (there is an id tag on the housings that says which housing is which). Make sure the valve and brake adjustments were set correctly as well. I think your engine should have the alternate exhaust lash setting. Were you losing turbos before the rebuild or did that start after the engine was rebuilt?

Regarding the turbo failures:

Clean any oil that has accumulated in the inlet manifold and the charge air cooler.

Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts.

Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold (and EGR cooler if applicable).

Inspect and clean the turbocharger oil supply line and oil drain tube.

Replace the turbocharger mounting flange gasket, oil drain tube gasket(s) or O-ring (as applicable) and the turbocharger mounting studs and nuts.

Change the engine oil and filters.

Pre-lube the replacement turbocharger.

Additionally you need to make sure the correct turbo is being installed and that it is the current revision level. The turbos make look the same but they are different.

Where is the tag for the jake housings, I don't find them on the outer housing.

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Thanks for the reply!!! How do I check the oil pressure at the turbo???

--

BILL

The oil pressure should be the same as what is shown on the gauge. If the gauge reading is not low, remove the oil feed hose and check it for restrictions, etc. that would reduce oil pressure. If nothing wrong is apparent you would have to fabricate a hose and "T" fitting to connect to the turbo oil feed line in order to directly measure the pressure being fed to the turbo.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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Were the engine brakes rebuilt at the same time that the engine was rebuilt? Make sure the Front brake assembly was installed on the front head and that the Rear brake assembly was installed on the rear head (there is an id tag on the housings that says which housing is which). Make sure the valve and brake adjustments were set correctly as well. I think your engine should have the alternate exhaust lash setting. Were you losing turbos before the rebuild or did that start after the engine was rebuilt?

Regarding the turbo failures:

Clean any oil that has accumulated in the inlet manifold and the charge air cooler.

Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts.

Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold (and EGR cooler if applicable).

Inspect and clean the turbocharger oil supply line and oil drain tube.

Replace the turbocharger mounting flange gasket, oil drain tube gasket(s) or O-ring (as applicable) and the turbocharger mounting studs and nuts.

Change the engine oil and filters.

Pre-lube the replacement turbocharger.

Additionally you need to make sure the correct turbo is being installed and that it is the current revision level. The turbos make look the same but they are different.

Thanks for all the replies from everyone!!! The engine brakes were not rebuilt at the same time. I dont know if they were installed properly or not, that will need to be checked. I dont know if the stealth portion is working correctly or not either. I would love to find a reputable "old school" mack machanic to check this truck out for me. I am from the Atlanta metro area, the truck is located in Mobile, Al area but we can take it just about anywhere. If this is possible, please let me know.

--

BILL

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Right. I'm kind of wondering if the turbo and Jake issues are related to oil pressure, what's the oil pressure?

The engine oil pressure is about 15 or so at idle and about 60 or so at about 1900 rpms. I might be a little off on the numbers but close.

--

BILL

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The engine oil pressure is about 15 or so at idle and about 60 or so at about 1900 rpms. I might be a little off on the numbers but close.

--

BILL

Tune up specification for 1996-1997 emissions call for oil pressure at operating temperature of 10-30 psi at 600 rpm, 34-64 psi at governed rpm

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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I dont know if the stealth portion is working correctly or not either. --

BILL

If the 'jake' sounds like a wet fart when it's on, the exhaust brake part of the stealth is working. I think they call it a stealth because you don't know it's on when it's on...(not much stopping power).

There's an electrical plug underneath/behind the air cleaner that when unhooked, cancels out the exhaust brake so when the engine brake is on it rattles like a normal jake.

Ever wonder how a blind person knows when to stop wiping?

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