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Jake Brake Question


QCDriver
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How much oil pressure does it need to work properly? E-7 2001

I'll explain after someone can get me that info.

Thanks agian in advance.

From 1100-1500 rpm 30psi, 1700 rpm 35psi and 2100 rpm 40psi. This is measured with a special oil pressure test kit and at hot oil temp. Book doesnt show where the guage hooks to, Just says to follow the instructions in the kit. We have found if the Engine brake works good for the first 10 or so miles and then quits when the oil temp gets up. We first put in the new high voulume oil pump and if that dont work we install the external oil supply line kit. Of course make sure it has the new style oil check valves on top of the rocker arm brackets and that the solinoids are not pouring oil out the bottom with the engine running and valve covers off.

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How much oil pressure does it need to work properly? E-7 2001

I'll explain after someone can get me that info.

Thanks agian in advance.

Mackpro beat me to the punch there. Here are the specs given in the E-Tech Service Manual for troubleshooting the J-Tech (Jake Model 690) engine brake.

E-Tech™ Engine with J-Tech™ Engine Brake

Engine rpm 2100 — 40 psi (2.8 bar)

Engine rpm 1700 — 35 psi (2.4 bar)*

Engine rpm 1500 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)*

Engine rpm 1300 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)*

Engine rpm 1100 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)*

*Specified pressures with engine at normal operating temperatures

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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Mackpro beat me to the punch there. Here are the specs given in the E-Tech Service Manual for troubleshooting the J-Tech (Jake Model 690) engine brake.

E-Tech Engine with J-Tech Engine Brake

Engine rpm 2100 40 psi (2.8 bar)

Engine rpm 1700 35 psi (2.4 bar)*

Engine rpm 1500 30 psi (2.0 bar)*

Engine rpm 1300 30 psi (2.0 bar)*

Engine rpm 1100 30 psi (2.0 bar)*

*Specified pressures with engine at normal operating temperatures

Thats about what I thought my psi is in that order but about 5psi or so higher

Now after tune up on my truck they are saying my psi is low and need hi psi oil pump. I say bs. My oil psi has been the same since

I got the truck.

Today was my first pull with loaded tanker. I will call Mack in morning as the good service rep., ex. mech.. in the works am. I'm

thinking bad ground somewhere?

AC is out also. I added 134 with die but can't find leak,(w/uv light) compressor working and not short cycling. :pat:

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From 1100-1500 rpm 30psi, 1700 rpm 35psi and 2100 rpm 40psi. This is measured with a special oil pressure test kit and at hot oil temp. Book doesnt show where the guage hooks to, Just says to follow the instructions in the kit. We have found if the Engine brake works good for the first 10 or so miles and then quits when the oil temp gets up. We first put in the new high voulume oil pump and if that dont work we install the external oil supply line kit. Of course make sure it has the new style oil check valves on top of the rocker arm brackets and that the solinoids are not pouring oil out the bottom with the engine running and valve covers off.

It does not quit drops cylinders then all 6 work then drops etc.....

There is external lines on already. I bought used with 200k on it.

Edited by QCDriver
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It does not quit drops cylinders then all 6 work then drops etc.....

There is external lines on already. I bought used with 200k on it.

Don't laugh! Silly question !!? is there oil in the engine?I once had a guy come to the shop With this jake complaint ,I when thru the tests with the gauges on the heads!

Went to pull the pan to check the pump and much to my horror I got Less than 8 liters / quarts of oil from the sump Think I might have found the problem?????

I decided not to pull the pan :pat: .Anyway we went thru this senario many times the best fix was the oil pump and tigher main and rod bearings!

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Besides dropping pan,how invovled is replacing the pump? I've built many gas engines, anything similar?

Basically three bolts hold the pump to the engine, two bolts hold the suction tube to the pump. Part number from SB 219-008 is 315GC466M, part number may change to a WID#, so make sure they look the pump up and give you the right one.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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Thanks everyone for your input. It comes down to my driving. :pat: When fuel spiked, I changed my driving habbits. Well today I let loose on some down hills, with rpms above 1800 and it works fine. Lately I've been trying to top my best mpg. Now with new cam and tune up kit running hard today I got 7.1 mpg with 3000gal.@ 46000# net. loaded oneway.

So thanks agian for your input. :notworthy:

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Thanks everyone for your input. It comes down to my driving. :pat: When fuel spiked, I changed my driving habbits. Well today I let loose on some down hills, with rpms above 1800 and it works fine. Lately I've been trying to top my best mpg. Now with new cam and tune up kit running hard today I got 7.1 mpg with 3000gal.@ 46000# net. loaded oneway.

So thanks agian for your input. :notworthy:

So is the engine brake is working good? How much improvement over before?

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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So is the engine brake is working good? How much improvement over before?

In the 1800-2100 range close to 50% better.

I will still install the pump when bearings are needed. I have 432k on truck now, what are the signs off needing them done?

I would guess when psi drops to low right? An oil analysis would tell also correct?

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