krismoriah

Tandem dump means you are around 55000 lbs gross right? If thats the case, floats arent needed unless the vehicle sees alot of soft offroad use. Since your boss seems to be doing this because he wants casings for the rears... if you wear out a set of 11r24.5 tires every year, he will have to wait 4 years to have enough to recap the drives and by that time the casings that are in storage will be dry rotted lol. Also your boss is saying that the floats are 'expensive as all heck'. I pay around 450 for a good 11r24.5 steer tire and $650 for a 425/65/22.5 float. The floats will last twice as long as the cookie cutters on the steers as long as there is not a huge alignment issue..so actually they are cheaper for the mileage. If the trucks are dayton/webb/spoke steers and you want to convert to a skinny tire, you have to change the spider and the rim, and sometimes the drum depending on the offset. Also since you are pulling them, add in some wheel seals. Casings are $80 for fairly new, xrayed and inspected virgins when you buy from the tire retreader. So converting just to make a mill of casings is not wise financially. Keep the trucks as is. Dont be afraid of Aeolus floats...they last as long as any of the others

Why are you replacing? is it because that one line leaks? I bought an 89 350 2V that was leaking around one of the injector lines..tightening it did no good. Took the line off and noticed the line had worn down on the seat from it being loose for awhile..replaced line..no help. Went to rebuild shop, they told me to take the plunger out of the barrel and bring it in and they would 'face' it up so that the line seats better. They let me borrow a special tool..they faced it up, i replaced the o-rings and its sealed and not leaking. $40. Unless you have major issues with the pump, fix whats broke and go on. I also replaced my compressor due to pushing oil throughout the system..you have to get it all out manually. I have run about a gallon of alcohol and spent countless hours on the tanks and lines. This winter if u dont get it out plan on all kinds of air issues.

if you are getting gallons per mile..quit.. sell the trucks. There is no formula for what you are asking..what tonnage? flat land? down hill? up hill? Are these CH models dumps or tractors? If i were bidding a job based on fuel I would bid at 3 miles per gallon plus your other expenses..if that doesnt get you profit then its probably not worth it. $5 a mile u can put a little in your pocket...around here.

I saw this truck for sale on craigslist about 2 or 3 months ago, an older guy from KY was selling it. I think it sold for $15000...so someone is trying to flip it for a $10K profit.

Found on ebay new for $20 each...thanks

Looking for square headlight assemblies for an RD mack. post message if u have for sale, or pm me

Pull the gauge cluster from the dash...takes about 10 minutes once you find the right bit for your screwdriver. There is a single plugin in the back of the cluster remove it and clean with contact cleaner, clean the plugin and the contact in the back of the cluster. Apply some dielectric grease after cleaning then install the cluster back in the dash...this may fix your problem for hours, days, or weeks or more...i did this to my CV713 for a year about once a month...then ended up buying a new cluster...problem solved. So if the cleaning works for you, set back enough money for a cluster as the truck keeps working.

If you have the econovance they get sticky or worn out and need replaced. I had the same symptoms and that was my fix..

Will have to look for the 'gas pedal' in the truck...lol. I hear ya.. Seriously I had that happen in a 425 cat that we changed fuel filters, air filters, and eventually injector o-rings and fuel lines...finally we decided to look at the linkage and found that there was a rock underneath the 'gas pedal' that was buried in the carpet way under the 'gas pedal'... not the case in this old mack...but will look at the linkage and full travel before buying or shopping for a turbo...

Compared the spinning to another truck of mine that has a pretty fresh turbo, and there is definately a difference. Will start shopping for a turbo thanks.

This will last about a year or so until one day it gets stuck in either 3rd or 7th. Then you take the shifter out and a long pry bar and pop it out of gear..then you will no longer be able to hit 3rd or 7th. When you drop off the transmission it will cost alot to fix because they will find all kinds of things that need replaced or repaired. Start shopping for a reman transmission now. Start pricing clutch packs since you will be replacing the transmission and dont want go back in and do a clutch later. This is a warning sign that is giving you warning now. You can work the truck and make money for awhile, but its going to happen. Yes you can just skip those gears, did that for two weeks while shopping for a reman trans. Been there and done that...just giving my opinion.

1988 RD688S E6 350 4V Truck was running great until recently started losing power up the same hill...used to pull it in 4th, now have to pull in 3rd. Same weights same variables. Air filter clean, new fuel filters, no leaks in air to air. Pulled the ends off the turbo, a little play back and forth, kind of hard to spin by hand..but no roughness felt. Since this is a hill issue, is there an aneroid valve in the pump? Should the tubine be easier to spin by hand? I dont have a boost gauge...so yes i need to get one..just trying to rule out the obvious first.

I am in Charleston WV. I sent you two PMs. Hope to talk to you soon.

No kits that i know of. The owner of the pics that I posted said that they are headlights from a T800 kenworth...but you can use freightliner or w900 or some western star setups. I just got two complete assemblys from a junkyard for $50, I have to fabricate a new metal piece for the background, probably going to use diamond plate. Should be easy to do, only a few hours or cutting and mounting.

changed the oil line going to the econovance...the old one was brittle and thought it wasnt getting proper oil at startup....no help. Still burns your eyes out to startup and chugs hard lots of white smoke at startup....

Engine brake doesnt work until oil reaches certain temperature...so this is not my problem at startup.

going through my new to me 1986 RD688 i found that it has a jacobsen 680A engine brake. Does anyone know anything about this engine brake? Does it have good stopping power or just another noisy but worthless jake?

where to get fender flares like this? for R or RD model?

fjh, I had to replace the econovance in mine, when i got it the only way to start it was to bang on it with a hammer as someone else had done before me...I read the posts about the screens...i cannot find any screens at all in mine...i took everything apart even the new econovance...no screens. mine is a 1998 so maybe someone had already done it and the new econovance didnt have them? I will re-look at my oil supply line...perhaps you are correct..its worth a try.

Had the same thing happen to one of the trucks i picked up a few months ago...this truck just ended up needing 'burped' got air lock in the system because of a bad rad. cap. Just run it with the cap off and let the air 'burp' out of the top of the radiator..if the water gets warm up there then your thermostat is open. On the flip side...if this doesnt work...could be a head gasket...but go thru the simple stuff first.. burp the air...rule out thermostats...rule out oil cooler (no oil in the coolant)...then cross your fingers its not a head gasket.

I have a 350 4V that needs the governor and pump gone thru...a guy has one locally off a good runner and guarantees it for $500.... I dont know if im going to go with that or drop my pump off and have it gone thru...we have a good local shop that I see pumps come in from all over the country.. Mountaineer Diesel. Kind of scared to hear them tell me the price to rebuild...

Myself and another guy on here have the same problem. My engine is an 1998 E7 400 with 395,000 miles. Engine starts up and stumbles, then pours out the white smoke and chugs and stumbles for about 20 seconds then clears up on mine. After about a minute it runs really good..then if you shut it off after warm and wait a few minutes or more it will do the same thing. My local mack guru says to pull the injectors...that in his opinion one or more are leaking off after shut off and filling the cylinder with fuel..then on startup the remaining cylinders fire and the loaded cylinders burn off until they are dry then it runs good... that is a theory not proven...but sounds like a possbility. Since you have all new 'reman' injectors...that possibly kills that theory. I replaced the oil timing advance on my pump...but mine was bad anyway...someone had been beating it with a hammer before me and it finally gave out... this was a great possibility in a fix...but it solved nothing for me. Still looking for answers here after about a year.

oil pressure is good 60lbs at idle. Truck is very difficult to start..so i was relating the surging to maybe sucking air as it runs...which also makes it lose its prime... but perhaps the governor is at fault for this too?

Just picked up a new to me 1986 RD688S dump with an E6-350. At idle the truck surges up and down bouncing from 400rpm to about 600rpm..just up and down up and down. Truck runs good and strong...but the idle is hard to get used to...any fixes or known problems that causes this?